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Welcome to the new look VWWatercooled
After much work and little sleep there is a new version of the forums running on more powerful and recent hardware as well as an upgraded software platform.
Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.
Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.

The new forum software is an upgraded version of what came before, it's mostly the same but also a little different. Hopefully easier to use and more stable than before.
We are learning together here, so please be patient. If you have questions, please post them here. If you have worked something out and can provide an answer,
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What did you do to your Polo today?
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Originally posted by noone View PostDidn't over tighten, just not the easiest place to access (and the filter changer tool seems to slip on the can). Yeah, got oil over the front of the block.
You're getting the Seat intake?
Nah, the SEAT intake is a total waste of money for what you get IMO ($200 for a bit of plastic tubing, on top of which most people then spend $120'ish for a BMC filter... and you still have that restrictive airbox to deal with). I'm still trying to decide, but it's most likely going to be a K&N Apollo shielded pod filter with intake pipe (so completely sealed pod filter and air intake tract).Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3
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Tightened by hand, removed with the tool. All good now.
I think the Seat intake section is great, very expensive for what it is, but if you can feel the car pulling better, then its working...
I don't think you are going to get any more cold air into the turbo with a basic Pod filter setup. There is not much breathing room around the front grill on the Polo, but moving the battery may give you good access to the flog light grill area for some good cold air. I'll be interested to see what you come up with, I'll probably go for a Pod filter at some stage, just because I like to play.
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I did feel benefits with Seat intake, I was very happy with the purchase. It was my second upgrade on my car after REVO Stage 1.
Got Forge TIP (red) in today, and at the same time, had Forge DV springs uprated to yellow. Have red / blue / extra shims just in case.
Keeps the boost at more than 22 psi on full throttle, and tailing down to 16-17...06 Polo GTI - REVO Stage 2 = 140kw @ wheels.
06 Golf GTI - Bluefin Stage 1 blacked out with ED30 theme, leather, xenon, etc.
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well as some of you may know, i drive a pog tdi, and for us oiler boys, intake sludge etc can be an issue.
sooooo i cleaned the side mount intercooler out. flushed it with carby cleaner and hot water, got a decent amount of crap out. cleaned up the insides of the pipework too.
as for the intake, however.... its pretty damn clean. i was impressed!
i guess i have the tune to thank for that- a hardworking diesel turbo is a healthy turbo.
p.s. i lol'd when i got underneath and saw the size of my turbo. seriously, and i mean seriously, it's about the size of the average bloke's clenched fist, supposedly running up to 22-24psi when tuned high. its frigging tiny!
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I’m a tight arse, so instead of getting a the Seat pipe I made up my own fiberglass air scoop that is half as wide again at the front so it rams the air in. I also put in a egay Pipercross airfilter and blow-off valve. After a bit of messing with the spring clicks on the valve I’m happy with the results for around $220 total.
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Ordered some more goodies to throw on in a few weeks once all the parts arrive.
* Simota sealed pod filter (will need to buy MAF adapter plus doctor a connector or breather, for the cold start pipe, and a sealed intake tube to run to a cold air feed)
* Castrol Edge 5w-30
* Subaru Upper Engine cleaner
* Billet shift linkages
That plus the rest of the parts I have, or are on order (fuel filter, oil filter, sump plug, Redline MTL gearbox oil, pollen filter)
Should be along weekend of maintenance.Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3
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Finished painting my valve cover, also got the polished manifold on a week or so ago.
Removed all the N249 stuff to, car seems to be running better, boosting harder
Changed the plugs
Need to finish polishing throttle body
Waiting on a Audi R8 Oil Cap
MODS- TOO MANY
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"The N249 system allows the ECU to open the diverter valve if it wants to. The DV is a mechanical system that does the same job, and removing it can smooth out the power delivery"
I think all it really does is allow the car to dump boost and not over boost, along with the N75 and other things. Too much crap on the car that is not needed
A lot of threads on Vortex about it, most saying it is not needed so i thought i would have a go
Car seems to boost a bit harder (higher spike)
Im sure Noone will chime in
It does throw up a code as some of the sensors are unplugged, most people just solder in resistors, so the car thinks there is a sensor there but there isntLast edited by vwthunder; 27-05-2010, 02:45 PM.MODS- TOO MANY
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Originally posted by Pommie View PostI’m a tight arse, so instead of getting a the Seat pipe I made up my own fiberglass air scoop that is half as wide again at the front so it rams the air in. I also put in a egay Pipercross airfilter and blow-off valve. After a bit of messing with the spring clicks on the valve I’m happy with the results for around $220 total.Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
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Originally posted by vwthunder View PostIm sure Noone will chime in
The N249 does exactly that, its the bit thats on the other end of the diverter valve vacuum tube.
Bypassing the N249 removes the ECU's ability to bleed boost for whatever reason it decides. This was very popular with the Mk4's, there are also a lot of guys running this setup on the Polo UK site. I bypassed this for a few hundred kms about 6 months ago and did not notice any benefit, so I reconnected.
Each to their own, if you remove, you are potentially bypassing a safety mecanism, but there are plenty of bypasses running strong, so its not likely to cause issues (don't take my word on that).
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Its finally happened.
The rear control arm bushing has torn and causing knocking from under the car. Now i gotta replace them with the solid bushings tomorrow after work ~!FUN!~
... or should i wait till i get a set of coilovers and fit it all in one go ......hmmm.....APR V2 | APR Downpipe + custom catback | APR solid mount | FMIC | SEAT intake | BMC filter | FORGE 007DV | KW v1 | WHITELINE RSB
139Kw | 271.8Nm atw - At a new home
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Nice, intrested in the delete
Originally posted by vwthunder View PostFinished painting my valve cover, also got the polished manifold on a week or so ago.
Removed all the N249 stuff to, car seems to be running better, boosting harder
Changed the plugs
Need to finish polishing throttle body
Waiting on a Audi R8 Oil Cap
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2025 - Below Forum
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