What did you do to your Polo today?

[h100vw]

You could pull the engine in an arvo by swinging the front

[sambb]

Yeah true - the access to everything else once the front of the car is opened up is pretty good. When I was in there I found a small coolant coloured trail coming out from underneath the crank pulley. Anyone want to take a stab at what that could be? I needed the car the next day so had to press on and couldn't get too far into searching.

This is looking vertically between the sump and the crank pulley.

[rgvlee]

I have a similar leak in that area, have for a while.
Was diagnosed as leaking water pump (not surprising appeared a few thou kms after timing belt/water pump service by shop A)
Had the service done again, by shop B, problem remains but a slower leak.
Not major, I get the coolant warning light come on every 3-4 thou kms.

Like most things I will probably do it myself next and do it properly because clearly the paid professionals can't.

[vwthunder]

Installed a new radiator. Can't say I've ever encountered a radiator job before that required the entire (and I mean entire) front of the car to be removed. Incredible! Would fly (relatively speaking) through that kind of removal if I do it again but first time round it was a nightmare.

I fitted a bigger MK4 aluminium one, that was a nightmare

[sambb]

I first noticed marks on the undertray from it about 15,000km after I got the timing belt/water pump done so probably the same deal for me too. I'll prob just keep an eye on it and hold off till the next timing belt interval if that's what it is. Argghh can't stand leaks!

[rgvlee]

Yeah it pisses me off as well.
Mine is not as bad as that, other than the coolant light coming on the only other indication is a couple of light marks on the sump. No leaks on the floor so clearly it doesn't get far before drying up.

[h100vw]

Yeah it pisses me off as well.
Mine is not as bad as that, other than the coolant light coming on the only other indication is a couple of light marks on the sump. No leaks on the floor so clearly it doesn't get far before drying up.

I'd do it now, new pump and a belt. Leave the tensioner and pulley in. 3 years and 10s of 1000s of kms will take you ages.

Gavin

[TDIfan]

I have a similar leak in that area, have for a while.
Was diagnosed as leaking water pump (not surprising appeared a few thou kms after timing belt/water pump service by shop A)
Had the service done again, by shop B, problem remains but a slower leak.
Not major, I get the coolant warning light come on every 3-4 thou kms.

Like most things I will probably do it myself next and do it properly because clearly the paid professionals can't.

Let me know if you need some genuine coolant mate
Have some extra left from the coolant change (1.5 undiluted bottle, 1 diluted)
Had a stuffed thermostat, and the coolant was old

[SuperChimps]

Finally did my SAI/N249 etc.. delete today pretty happy with the amount of crap cleared out of the engine bay. Its got to be a bit of a performance enhancement on the basis of weight savings alone!

was feeling pretty smart, not having lost any coolant doing the combi valve.. but then i broke my dipstick tube pulling the pump out . 26$ to VW will get me a new one tomorrow - so not the end of the world.

[Blue9N3]

pod in, needs cover as heat soak seems a lot worse (intake temps much higher than with the stock Airbox.

Cheap and easy mod.
2.75" to 3" silicone elbow, (eBay)
3x 3" hose clamps, (bunnings)
Saas pod (super cheap)
3" coupler (76mm pvc pipe is fine) bunnings
Stanley knife and screw driver.

Haven't bought a filter for the Sai intake yet, just have a rag cable tied over the hole.


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[louis19]

[ATTACH]22735[/ATTACH]pod in, needs cover as heat soak seems a lot worse (intake temps much higher than with the stock Airbox.

Cheap and easy mod.
2.75" to 3" silicone elbow, (eBay)
3x 3" hose clamps, (bunnings)
Saas pod (super cheap)
3" coupler (76mm pvc pipe is fine) bunnings
Stanley knife and screw driver.

Haven't bought a filter for the Sai intake yet, just have a rag cable tied over the hole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good Job mate! Unrelated, but is your DV installed incorrectly? Hard to see it fully in the picture, but the orientation appears the wrong way around?

[Blue9N3]

DV is Correct according to forge, but opposite to the factory setup.

Factory setup is probably better as boost actually keeps the valve shut rather than trying to lift it, but forge recommend not to put the splitter valves in backwards. Dunno why.


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[sambb]

Basically all piston style DV's are oriented that way. You have the inlet boost pressure acting on only a small area at the base of the piston - its not really feasible that this boost pressure is going to push it open against both the spring and the manifold pressure signal. Diaphragm valves can go either way but its more conventional to have them in the stock orientation.

[h100vw]

Basically all piston style DV's are oriented that way. You have the inlet boost pressure acting on only a small area at the base of the piston - its not really feasible that this boost pressure is going to push it open against both the spring and the manifold pressure signal. Diaphragm valves can go either way but its more conventional to have them in the stock orientation.

I had an AUM engined A3 that only made 15PSI on a stage 1 tune with the DV fitted backwards. I wouldn't fit one except with the boost on the side of the piston. Regardless of the theory that the spring and boost up the cap should keep it closed.

[sambb]

Gav was that a piston style DV that you are saying you would only fit with the charge pipe pressure coming into the side of the piston?