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Last night, did the intake flap mod and fitted the pd160. PITA to get the pd160 in.
The drivers side mirror glass was hanging on by thread so pulled that off before it fell off and put it back on with liberal amounts of araldite. With the tiny amount of glue they use to hold these on from factory it's no wonder you hear about them falling off.
Dropped off the car this morning to get the exhaust done.
Hopefully cc will have my stage 2 tune ready for me soon.
Installed a Turbotech manual boost controller in place of the N75. Its not an inline restriction type, its a ball and spring type that acts like a pressure relief and won't start flowing until a preset boost is reached.
Its pretty unreal how well it works. I set it for 14psi and it basically hits that boost level in an instant (quicker than the N75 with a tune) and plateaus at that level for longer ie it will trail off to about 12psi whereas the N75 would have it dropping down to 10psi and a little quicker (to protect the turbo I assume). It hits the preset every time, in any gear from any revs. It feels like it builds boost quicker after you snatch the next gear too. I thought it would be a lot more on/off with an overly touchy throttle, but while boost response is quicker you don't loose around town driveability at all. Not bad for 35$.
Its only in there because I wanted to test if a hesitation when coming on boost issue was coming from my N75, the N75 will be going back in tonight. A bit nervous about running a slightly different boost pattern to my tune which is why I ran it on 14psi. Truth is the rate of boost building is so instantaneous with this MBC that I couldn't tell if the problem was present or not.
What I will use it for though is when I get my dump pipe + cat installed later in the year. If I can avoid the CEL, i'll run this little MBC in parallel with the N75 to take out any boost spikes. If the AFR's are ok i'll run it that way until I can afford CC phase 2.
I played with MBC's on the Polo ages, ago, nothing I found is faster than the stock setup with good tune (obviously other than new diveter, air mods and bigger turbo)
The only way you could compare would be a stock set up (N75) with a 'tune' versus an MBC set up with a tune that matches its characteristics ie an MBC'd car with autronic mapped for it or something. You're right - there's absolutely no way chucking a turbotech MBC on a car with phase1 is going to make the car go better than if its running the N75 that the tune was designed for. Also not all MBC's are the same, and even the same MBC's can be plumbed in different ways to give completely opposite results, so you can't right them off. I only ran it for fault finding purposes but I can tell you that even on a car that it wasn't tuned for there was hardly any lag between gear changes - it just wanted to stay hard on boost. Surprised me that's all. I wouldn't want to drive a car like that all the time. That's what's so great about my CC phase 1 - absolutely civil in normal conditions but unleashes when you want it to whereas the MBC was just always trying to go - always trying to hit maximum boost, the DV very active and audible, wheelspin out of roundabouts that I hadn't even intended etcBut it was very consistent at bleeding off at the same boost level every time no matter what load, revs, gear, temperature and was very fast to react. Because of that (even though I haven't tried it in parallel yet) I think it would come in very useful for anyone looking to clip boost spikes if run in conjunction with a solenoid.
I am looking at doing that too, what did you use? Did it take long?
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1. Mask off all surrounding areas
2. Sand down the headlight surface with 800 grit sandpaper adding small amounts of water as you go.
3. Go over again with 1500 grit sandpaper, again with water.
4. Clean and dry off surface after sanding.
5. Spray paint with clear acrylic paint
I did 3 coats of paint and used those particular sandpaper grits as it's what I had around the house. You could go even more fine on the second grit (maybe 2000-2500) but 800 was good starting grit as it took the bulk off quicker. Total time was probably 1-1.5 hours including waiting for paint to dry in between coats.
Nice... would it not have been better to buff it smooth with a dual action polisher instead of painting it with spray paint? if the right compounds are used im sure the same effect can be achieved..
But nice work it still came out great!
10' 9n3 Polo GTI |6000k HIDS Mains/Fogs|NewSouth Performance Boost gauge + SWGpod|Custom Induction|K&N|ATE Drilled & slotted Discs|
SEAT Sport Strut Brace|Unitronic Stage 1+|76mm Downpipe|FORGE TIP
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