What did you do to your Polo today?

[kaanage]

Pretty much matched my best time at Winton today while bedding in a new set of brake pads for the 6 hour relay tomorrow

[Eddy]

Hoyhoy.

Have fun tomorrow Greg, the best advise I can give ya is to not worry about PB's & have fun, ya might be surprised.

[TDIfan]

Detuned to stock from CC in preparation for the Malone tune

Thanks Gavin for all the helps while I was with CC

[h100vw]

Detuned to stock from CC in preparation for the Malone tune

Thanks Gavin for all the helps while I was with CC

No sweat Michael. A shame you are so far away.

[ZantetsukenJ]

What's the difference between the Malone and cc tunes?

[h100vw]

What's the difference between the Malone and cc tunes?

You can get some additional features in the Malone tunes that we don't do. PD TDI | Malone Tuning Ltd

Custom-Code can tune the TDI with any turbo, it's just a bit hard with the full width of the country to contend with.

I don't consider one to be better than the other. You need to buy the Flashzilla box too.

Gavin

[louis19]

Changed gearbox oil, old oil was dark, thin and my god did it have a strong stench to it!

[kaanage]

Have fun tomorrow Greg, the best advise I can give ya is to not worry about PB's & have fun, ya might be surprised.

It was a regularity race so I shouldn't have been chasing PB's - the aim was to be consistent as possible in our stints (about 70 minutes since we had 5 in the team). I did get close on one lap which meant it was wasted as it below my nominated target time.

The turbo should be nice and clean after 33 laps today (+ about a dozen yesterday in practice/qualifying)

[seangti]

Changed the strut tops and bearings in the silver car. The bearings appeared ok, but the casing fell off once the spring became untrapped... Oh well, no more creaking. Still a few little noises in the front, perhaps swaybar bushes or links a little loose. I've also experienced intermittent low boost feeling, scanned it and got an error about the N75 valve being open. Can't recall the code off the top of my head and I'm now away for work. Cleared the fault and will look further into it. Quick research suggested either electrical fault in wiring or the N75 itself.

Re the red car and turbo bolts, going to chase some workshops to see what can be done. Given the larger manifold I can't even fit a ratchet spanner between the top of the bolt head and the engine. Ughhh. And still planning to do a full day with Paul Stokell at Morgan Park next weekend... might not be in the red car.

[sambb]

How low was your boost when it was dropping, was it just a bit down or all the way down to wastegate actuator spring pressure?

[Stuwey]

Binned the SAI pump.

Thought i bought the plate for the top of the SAI housing to make the job easy... Turns out it was the one for the side of the block, which made for a hurried evenings work. Maybe i should have started the job before 4pm haha.

[seangti]

How low was your boost when it was dropping, was it just a bit down or all the way down to wastegate actuator spring pressure?

Not exactly sure Sam. I'd assumed, and by the feel, it was around 7-9psi or whatever the boost level is when you disconnect the N75, so yeah spring pressure. It's intermittent boost drop, will drive fine, than a kick and it's slow.

[sambb]

You'll get that N75 error if its unplugged ie the ECU sees an open circuit at the N75 plug terminals or within the solenoid thats plugged to it. Check that the solenoid is 30 ohms, and that at the plug that the pin associated with the blue/black wire is 0 ohms to rocker cover earth, and the other pin is O/C to earth. Also check that between plug pins you get O/C to confirm no shorts are within the loom or back at the ECU output. If that all looks good ( and assuming its not an intermittent partial O/C within the solenoid itself) then I'd put my money on dry joints from plug-solenoid. Spray them with CRC contact cleaner and reseat the plug a few times and then some 2-26 or WD.

[seangti]

You'll get that N75 error if its unplugged ie the ECU sees an open circuit at the N75 plug terminals or within the solenoid thats plugged to it. Check that the solenoid is 30 ohms, and that at the plug that the pin associated with the blue/black wire is 0 ohms to rocker cover earth, and the other pin is O/C to earth. Also check that between plug pins you get O/C to confirm no shorts are within the loom or back at the ECU output. If that all looks good ( and assuming its not an intermittent partial O/C within the solenoid itself) then I'd put my money on dry joints from plug-solenoid. Spray them with CRC contact cleaner and reseat the plug a few times and then some 2-26 or WD.

Thanks Sam, really appreciate the detailed response. Will put that into action.

[flat6]

After spending a year with the super pro sports dog bone engine mount I'm switching back to stock on the weekend, gotta say it did improve the overall feel of changing gears when driving but considering I spend 95% of the time sitting in traffic and 5% actually enjoying the car, it kind of sucks and makes the damn cup holder rattle non stop.

I'm almost certain your clutch will last longer with this mount as it changes the way you drive when taking off normally, being if you don't want to shake up your dash.