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The A1RM's are a custom order and need my backing plate, so looks like i'll need to buy two sets of pads as it is. I.e. QFM will use the backing plate of the current (damaged) Remsa pads to put the new compound on to. Though is likely 4+ weeks away.
I found some great info on swapping between pads for street and track work at Essex Parts. Really interesting read. It seems like sound logic. It also helps understand the process you refer to as to why the pads would make noise and require the bedding in process to occur again.
As for my approach, I'll likely buy another set of Remsa's, though while doing track days regularly just run the A1RM's. When it's not likely I'll hit the track for a few weeks I'll swap out the A1RM's for remsa's.
For those doing light track work, the Remsa's are sufficient. I've now done ~15 happy laps and a few sprint events which has cooked the bejeezus out of em.
Got some 4 motion pads you can have to get re-worked Sean.
Installed material (cotton) under the dash, felt tape between the center console and the dash, filling spaces with rags, etc.
My car is by no means quiet (although with the brakes being quiet I'm much happier), but when its dropped, uprated sways, front brace, it all comes together to twist the chassis. I'm thinking the front lower brace might help, but reports are mixed.
For me it was a day job, need to remove the section around the gearstick to get to another section, etc.
time to go nuts with felt tape tomorrow.
tonight was the last straw.. ill kill someone soon
Hi, anyone got experience or an opinion on running a 215/40/17 on the polo? Can get semi-slicks on the TT wheels and want to ensure they won't rub.
I was more keen to stick with a 16" rim, but the price is right.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
I run 215/40 17 slicks on TT rims and the same size street tyres on 8.5" wide OZ Ultraleggeras, and don't have any rubbing issues in either situation.
I tried 225/40 17 at one point and those did rub at full lock.
Thanks James, exactly what I wanted to hear
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
I rub over bumps with 215 40 17. A full load and its barely off rubbing the whole time.
I'm not that low in the front, but with cutdown bumpstops in the rear, thats where the issue is.
There is not a whole lot of clearance up front depending on what suspension you run. TT's are pretty good, offset suits the polo well. A little less offset (3-4mm) and they'd rub the struts.
tonight was the last straw.. ill kill someone soon
Everyone goes on about the rattles in the Polo - mines a 2006 at 135k - no rattles unless the cup holders out on the freeway - when it's away it's fine :/
2019 132TSI Tiguan
2011 Audi S4 Wagon
1988 MK1 Caddy
2006 Polo GTI
Everyone goes on about the rattles in the Polo - mines a 2006 at 135k - no rattles unless the cup holders out on the freeway - when it's away it's fine :/
I think its a combination of the car having had far stiffer suspension, launches, thin side wall tyres and being thrashed (but who the hell doesnt thrash their polo).
Well I was awake far too early this morning so thought I'd make the most of it by bedding in the new brakes pads to see how that feels before going to the A1RM's.
I also did my first power run since getting the Seat FMIC installed. Seems about the right power I'd have thought given the state of tune. I did the run in 3rd gear. It was ran to 6500rpm, but it's flattened/losing power in the very upped end. As its a GPS based unit, I won't get revs as accurate as dyno would, so it's a little off reading that I let off at 6200 rather 6500.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
Hey Sean, good on you. Is this easy to replicate on another car, say mine? Did you do a before and after?
I painted my THS FMIC black this weekend, continuing the stealth look. I need to get the bolts for the Seat brackets too. I also refitted the now black Ultra front and rear bars. Cheers Al
Hey Sean, good on you. Is this easy to replicate on another car, say mine? Did you do a before and after?
I painted my THS FMIC black this weekend, continuing the stealth look. I need to get the bolts for the Seat brackets too. I also refitted the now black Ultra front and rear bars. Cheers Al
Good to hear your car is coming together.
Yup, it's very easy to replicate, just need a safe stretch of flat road and can be done in 2nd or 3rd gear. It's a gps based unit which plugs into 12v for power, and off you go. Happy to catch up some time so you can go for a run with it. Best if you know a suitable location to stretch 2nd or 3rd gear. In terms of comparing prior runs, it's usually within a few kw of each other. I think previous runs were around 110-115kwat, but really can't recall and I think they were done in second. Would need to check the data when at home.
I tried to bed the older remsa pads to the newly machined rotors, but still lacks feel or bite when the pads are cold. Will order new pads rather than try scuff my current pads, time and effort for unknown return.
Question to all regarding gearbox fluid, is any synthetic going to be suitable eg. Nulon 75w-90. I also couldn't see how much was required in the owners manual, anyone know how many litres off the top of their head?
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
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