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The mechanical advance automatically advances the timing as the engine gets faster. To get the best out of the dizzy the advance should match what's needed by the engine. That's why getting the weights correct is important. Too heavy and it advances too much too early, not heavy enough and you can lose a couple of hp.
It will never be as good as an ECU which takes measurements 1000 times a second but a well set up mechanical dizzy is the next best thing.
He did quiz me on the specs of the motor and seemed like he's done a few. He did have a spreadsheet of the idea factory advancement but other than that, no clue.
Well the car never ran vac advance due to the vac canister having a split diaphram, but cold starts we're never too much of an issue. It would idle relatively smooth but still fairly harsh and also had a huge flat spot/hiccup getting on WOT from a cruise. Car starts easier and idles better now and has made the power feel more linear without any flat spots. It's set to 10° btdc at idle now but I reckon it'll have a few more degrees in it power wise, still feels the same after 3.5k but definitely runs better Bellow that
Very good work man. Lots of room for improvement ehehe. I'm glad no issues were had! It's a bold move to drive, race, and drive the mk1 back home. I did that with my Honda many times, but.... it's a Honda haha.
Last pic LOL. How fun is coming off the track haha. Are you running RSRs?
My goal is a reliable daily/track doing well so far I guess haha
595 super steel. Pretty **** tyre after it gets warm, but they were 70$ a piece so no complaints. Will be setting up with a set of nitto nt01's in 205/55/14. Not many tyre options for the 14 and I have no plans in changing the e30 bottle caps. They look to good for the price I paid
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