Ohhhhhh sparkly.....
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looks pretty tidy under there. make sure you keep it nice and clean!
p.s. your strut tops are shagged! get some new ones, car will ride nicer immediately!
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Any volkswagen spare parts place will have them.
try volkspower, they might even have some decent second hand ones. if all else fails you can get em from German Auto Parts. but you should be able to get them easily locally.
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cheers mate, ill get some when i replace the tierods, balljoints ect... do it all at once and get wheel alignment
EDIT, just rang volkspower, They dont have any strut tops and havnt had any in, in years apparently. he said its usually the bearings that die.Last edited by GRN_VAGN; 25-05-2010, 10:55 AM.<space for rent>
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Thanks guys, i'm hoping it to get cleaner and tidier within time.
By the way i'v been meaning to fix the struts as well. Mine are pretty bad, although yeah i didn't know where to get 'em from.
If valkspower doesn't have them, i have a few other VW business cards, and will have to ring about. Whats the exact term for it, strut tops? or...
EDIT: Just called W.M motors (vw) and they said they have some, but in second hand. Roughly $20 for each. Number is 9465 3357, if ya interested mate.Last edited by GeorgeMK1; 25-05-2010, 04:12 PM.- Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
- Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
- Brown U.S import 81 cabby
- 88 Honda crx b18cr
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Originally posted by GRN_VAGN View PostCheers mate
Ill get onto them tomorrowChildren(VW) who have left home, among others:1966 VW 1300 Deluxe Bug(Harbour Blue)1966 VW 1300 Steel Sunroof Bug(Ruby Red), 1971 VW 1600 S Bug(White) 1972 VW 25th Ann. Bug(Avocado) 2000 VW Golf Mk IV GTI 3 door(Metallic Black Magic), 1985 VW Golf Mk 1 GLS Cabriolet (Metallic Gun Metal) Current: 1985 Mercedes Benz 280CE Coupe(Midnight Blue)
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Hey everyone. The golf has been driving perfectly fine for some time now. Took her out yesterday to the mechanics fto book in a tune and see whats wrong with
the brakes. Drove about 10 minutes away from the mechanics and the car dies out. Originally we thought it was because the mechanic was playing with the carby
and thats why it died out. So i kept trying to start it over and over. After a bit of time i had realised it had no petrol ahaha. However with so many attempts to
start it without fuel, the f/p had broken. We ordered a new one only to find out it wont suck any fuel even with a new f/p. Mechanic had told me that i shouldnt
have run a return line, and i also shouldnt have got my switch wire to run from the ignition coil, as it only gives out 6v instead of the 12. I know have to re-wire
it all.
One more thing is, i need a new master cylender. However i dont know what booster i have, im pretty sure its MK2. AM i able to fit any m/c on or does it have to
be MK2? Does anyone know where i can get one and a price roughly... thanks guys.- Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
- Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
- Brown U.S import 81 cabby
- 88 Honda crx b18cr
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Originally posted by GRN_VAGN View Postthe wire from coil should only be a trigger wire for your relay... Did you wire it up with a relay like i said?
If so the coil wire trggers the relay, relay opens and shoots 12v from battery to the pump.
I guess ill have to try both ways and see what the difference is, if there even is one.- Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
- Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
- Brown U.S import 81 cabby
- 88 Honda crx b18cr
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you probably had a loose connection... id imagine a straight 12v from battery would be much more reliable then tapping into 30yo loom.
Maybe you got the wrong relay? is it a 30 or 40amp one?
Also it could be where you mounted the pump, from what i can remember from my research when i did it they would much rather push fuel longer distance then suck it.
Either way ya getting there, dont give up!!<space for rent>
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Nah its a 30amp one. Not only that but i have replaced the loom to a pretty new one too so all the wires are fine. ( boy was it hard doing the loom).
It was strange as it worked for a month now perfectly fine the way i had set it up, and as soon as the fuel ran out the problems came in. I have exams this coming week, however next week i'll try to wire the ignition of the relay to the loom. hopefully that would make a difference. The other strange thing is he said "dont run a return line", but wouldnt that f*** up the carby....- Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
- Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
- Brown U.S import 81 cabby
- 88 Honda crx b18cr
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Hello everyone, its been a very long time since i've posted, but thats due to lack of inspiration and time.
However i have still been working on this little car through out the weekends. I've been doing alot of research into 'sound deadening' this car and i have taken out the seats carpet etc and hopefully will begin. My plan was to buy some MLV or Dynamat like the profesionals use, but its waaay over my budget. Its not really an option of 'should i sound deaden the golf or not'. Ahahaha its quite loud and NEEDS it. Im thinking paint on sound deadener for underneather the wheel arches to kill the tyre noise. I've read somewhere that bitumen ALL over the car helps alot too?
Anyway i've spent several days behind after school to work on a few things for the golf. First i've made a box type thing that goes on top of the carby to allow me to put a pod filter on the car. Its a bit rough looking that moment but it does work. It needs a spray and it'll be done. However i had no where to put the filter to get enough air, so i began cutting out the grill (which i've always wanted to do). I've done one side of it but now the other is hard and im going to atempt a few methods to see which is best.
I have also made a sub box at school, to fit in my boot. Its 4cuft, however with the port, its less. In the picture it looks huge, but its not really that big. Anyway here are the pics
- Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
- Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
- Brown U.S import 81 cabby
- 88 Honda crx b18cr
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