My sort-of restoration

[Spyda]

The sub box looks sweet as bro!! it doesnt look like 4cu'ft though. What sub or subs have you decided on? Put wood glue on the edges and smooth it down with your finger.

[Gipson]

check out your local Clark rubber George (if you guys have clark rubber over there!?) they have a similar product to dynamatt for a price that's much kinder to the wallet

[Jace]

check out your local Clark rubber George (if you guys have clark rubber over there!?) they have a similar product to dynamatt for a price that's much kinder to the wallet

That's seriously awesome to know! I'm gonna hit them up for some too.

[GeorgeMK1]

Good work mate!

In regards to noise I did notice your Mk1 has a rather large exhuast.

Maybe just whack on a smaller 2" system to cut that noise but keep some good flow.

Its only the tip thats so big, the rest is actually quite small, but none the less is still to big. I was going to put my stock exhaust back on, but the back muffler has a hole, am i just able to weld it up and chuck it on?

The sub box looks sweet as bro!! it doesnt look like 4cu'ft though. What sub or subs have you decided on? Put wood glue on the edges and smooth it down with your finger.

Cheers mate, it took a sh*t load of calculation to work that out. Its 4cuft all together, with the port its less than 4 cuft. I am running two pioneers 400rms each, the w307d4 series. I am actually worried that this box wont be that good its a L shape port, i should have made the port in the middle as if you look at the pic, one sub has more space behind it than the other, and i think that could result in each sub moving differently to the other? And yep i will be running wood glue on the inside next class i have

check out your local Clark rubber George (if you guys have clark rubber over there!?) they have a similar product to dynamatt for a price that's much kinder to the wallet

I've actually read that somewhere, and im definately going to give it a check. However i dont think i've ever seen clark rubber here, there is a 'bridgestone rubber underlay' on ebay for about $60 for 14sqM which looks quite good. Think Jaycar also has some good deadener, ill do some more research though.. sound deadening is the number 1 priority after my Master Cylinder.

[Spyda]

Its only the tip thats so big, the rest is actually quite small, but none the less is still to big. I was going to put my stock exhaust back on, but the back muffler has a hole, am i just able to weld it up and chuck it on?



Cheers mate, it took a sh*t load of calculation to work that out. Its 4cuft all together, with the port its less than 4 cuft. I am running two pioneers 400rms each, the w307d4 series. I am actually worried that this box wont be that good its a L shape port, i should have made the port in the middle as if you look at the pic, one sub has more space behind it than the other, and i think that could result in each sub moving differently to the other? And yep i will be running wood glue on the inside next class i have



I've actually read that somewhere, and im definately going to give it a check. However i dont think i've ever seen clark rubber here, there is a 'bridgestone rubber underlay' on ebay for about $60 for 14sqM which looks quite good. Think Jaycar also has some good deadener, ill do some more research though.. sound deadening is the number 1 priority after my Master Cylinder.

The shape of the port doesnt matter man, its the volume thats important, if you wanted it to look symetrical then yeah in the middle would have been better. What thinkness MDF did you use? You might have more of a problem with the box flexing. I guess i have to see it in the car before i belive its 4cu'ft, lol. You should have cut the holes for the subs before putting it all together. It should get prity damn loud in there man.
If you need some cheap amps im looking to sell the ones in my car.
Here is a 4cuft box designed for a 15", note the single bed that its on:


Yes Jaycar also have some good deadener but its not realy cheap for the amount that you get, it smells and its supers sticky. Have a look at how the different deadeners work, the sticky stuff like dynamat is designed to reduce the vibration of the stuff you stick it to, thats why they say to use a heat guna and press it down all over basicly so that it fueses with the panels. Where as underlay or not sticky stuff is designed to stop the sound waves getting through.

[GeorgeMK1]

Yep Ill be very interested in the amps. Its either use this box, and run my two subs at 4ohm, ORRR buy a w7 13.5 !
I have used 18mm/0.75 mdf, which is basically the recomended size. Either way its easier for me to cut the holes like they are with a full box. Ill be finished with the box tmoro and the holes cut hopefully. Ill take a pic. For reference, it JUST fits in every angle of the boot. Its quite large, and even to me looks a bit smaller than 4cuft, but i have made it HIGHER more than deeper as i want the subs to face up.

Ill take a few more pics tmoro Also for those curious, going to look into Clark Rubber hopefully this weekend and ill report back ahaha.

[Spyda]

Yep Ill be very interested in the amps. Its either use this box, and run my two subs at 4ohm, ORRR buy a w7 13.5 !
I have used 18mm/0.75 mdf, which is basically the recomended size. Either way its easier for me to cut the holes like they are with a full box. Ill be finished with the box tmoro and the holes cut hopefully. Ill take a pic. For reference, it JUST fits in every angle of the boot. Its quite large, and even to me looks a bit smaller than 4cuft, but i have made it HIGHER more than deeper as i want the subs to face up.

Ill take a few more pics tmoro Also for those curious, going to look into Clark Rubber hopefully this weekend and ill report back ahaha.

Fair enough, with my amp you will be able to run your subs at 1ohm which will give you more than enough power . According to the model number you gave they are a duel 4ohm sub so you are able to hook both of them up at a 1ohm load.

You should realy brace the box with such thin mdf on such a large box to stop the box from flexing. Cant wait to see and hear it.

Youve seen and heard my amps so just shoot me a pm if you want em.

[GeorgeMK1]

Today took some time into taking out my suspension and having a good look why the rear is so sh*t.

Heres what i came up with, the springs are really short, i dont think they were cut but they might as well have been as they were bouncing around the plates with no support what so ever. And the actual obsorber is really really soft to push down. I have replacement ones from my donor golf, however the top of the replacement shock obsorber the thread is ruined, so i was just planing on putting my replacement springs (higher so it will lift the rear a bit) onto the shocks i have BUT little did i know they were f***ed and i could push them down with a finger.

What happens if i put good springs on shabby-ish obsorbers ? hehehe.
One more thing, due to my car being so low and the tyres scrapping, i have ruined a pipe, which i presume is for petrol? could some one help me out

Current ones on left, replacement on right.


The hole..

[GeorgeMK1]

Helloooooo everyone

Not that i have been lazy, however my comp has crshed and i have not been able to go on the net or comp. (im on friends comp atm)

I have been working alot, so far i have stripped the whooole interior and have painted everything in Bitumen as a sound deadener. I have also bought a sort of sound deadener from Clark Rubber to insulate everything.

I have pics and will post as soon as i can. I have completed the painting of the Bitumen and the Sound deadening and i will report on the sound difference. I have also ordered new Master Cylinder seals which i should have by monday arvo
P.S, Bitumen was a b*tch to paint ahaha, very hard and very messy, however hopefully worth it !!
DOVW here i come ( hopefully )

[Jace]

Is the Clark Rubber deadener the stuff that's 5mm or so thick with sticky foil on one side that comes in big rolls?
I wanna know how well it works out for you. Stripping my floor and POR15 and new deadener is a future project for sure.

Good to see an update too dude.

[PhilVW]

Hey Guys.

I have filled my mk1 with about 3meters of that sound proofing stuff, thick stuff on the floor and the thinner stuff on the headlining, its the perfect width for the roof then held up by the cross bars on the roof.

ALSO, rear suspension. I just removed the rear dampers on my mk1, they are almost new but have REPCO! stickers on them, might be worth checking repco out for prices!?

[GeorgeMK1]

Is the Clark Rubber deadener the stuff that's 5mm or so thick with sticky foil on one side that comes in big rolls?
I wanna know how well it works out for you. Stripping my floor and POR15 and new deadener is a future project for sure.

Good to see an update too dude.

Im unsure what it is, its around 5mm. It looks like a bunch of materials stuck together, and is a grey colour, i believe it is underlay like what most cars have. Its around $30 a sqM

It seems i go forward 2 steps and go back 3 steps.
Bought new M/C rubber kit for $55 and had it installed, then flushed the brake fluid and put in the new one. However that rubber hose shown above that is cut open, seams to be for the brake line. So alot of the fluid has ran out, and possibly the only reason the brakes stopped working was that broken line. So i might as well have bought a new kit for nothing ..

Another thing is was going to test out the brakes today, however i went to pour petrol, but it seems something has jammed the pipe, and petrol gets in a little then overflows?
Gonna have a proper look tmoro .. bare with me ppl ill get pics up asap

[Jarred]

I think the petrol thing mioght be the breather pipe for the petrol tank being blocked. They're the pipes that go up near the filler neck (but aren't the filler neck)

For the brakes. I'd very carefully inspect all the fittings and lines in the brake system. If you've got a leak, pumping/useing the brakes will force fluid out from these leaks. You might just find a loose fitting, or find you need entire new lines or something. Hope this helps.

[Peter Jones]

There's a flapper valve just inside the filler neck on the tank itself, I've seen one of these pretty crudded up.

It's accessible if you remove the flexible section of hose between the filler pipe and tank under the car.

You'd want to drain the tank first

I'd poke something down the filler first and see if it's obstructed.

[GeorgeMK1]

Finally able to show an update haha. Here are some pics of how the sound deadening looks.
I still have a bit of bitumen and ill be painting underneath and the wheel wells aswell when i have time.

I have changed the entire petrol tank over to my spare one, and hopefully all goes well with it. Im very curious about that little black box above the right back wheel, it has something to do with the petrol?

Also i have made a major F*** up when putting the rear chassis beam thingo (the thing that spams across the rear and has the drums on, word is escaping my mind haha). Well there are 4 bolts holidng it on, and i snapped one . The bolt is welded to the body and i have no idea how to swap it, or fix it. Ill try get a pic up tmoro ..

Here is how it started




Heres my M/C rebuild kit which cost me $55 and have installed it, however havnt had the time to see if the brakes work yet, fingers crossed


Here you can see how i have used the deadener hahahahha!!!