Mysticality's Light Thread!!

[DunlopRS]

I've taken the lower RH dash off twice now so can describe how to do it with busting things if anyone wants me to.

I usually do not need help to bust things - but will keep the offer in mind if I cannot work it out when I look. I assume you can get into that area without too much trouble.

[IBN]

Ivars –


Did you need to space the light bar out much?
What did you use as a spacer (saw one on the weekend with a dozen ¼” washers……..)?
Did you purchase a loom or make up the transistorised relay yourself?
I have been looking at that plate behind/in/under the bumper & thinking about mounting some smaller rectangular lights on a bracket from it behind the grill (replacing the grill with a mesh one from superskoda) – but figure its probably not worth it for the bit of extra light that I would get from lights that would fit – and they would likely be in front of the air inlet or at least put hot air into it…).

The bar was spaced out by using aluminium tube cut to length for the mounting screws. Theoretically the mounting bar is attached to a right angle bracket which is clamped to steel bar behind the the plastic bumper.
The loom and transistorized relay are something I knocked up myself. A solid state relay was considered, but I was advised against using one due to the cost and possible voltage drops/losses.
Cheers,
Ivars

[Mysticality]

That's neat. I am sure I would not get the lining back as new...........

Its not all that hard, really.
The most difficult part is getting the lining back in behind the trim on the B-pillar.
I advise against taking the lining out from around the C-pillar, if possible. It can be a right old thing to put it back in again. :/

I just got a hole saw and then poked the switch through. Its not a 100% perfect job, you can still see some of the woodgrain from around the hole, but it does the job. I didn't line it up perfectly, but if you do, it'll look fine.

[Lucas_R]

Mysticality - do you know if these are the correct bulbs for a new Octavia wagon numberplate lights? Apparently they are 36-37mm long festoon bulbs.

Bold-Sport.com :: LED License Plate Lights

Thanks in advance.

[wfdTamar]

The only trick to removing the RH lower dash is the light switch. Starting from the off position, push it straight in, then to the right a bit. You should then be able to remove the whole switch and unclip the cable. Pull off the little bits of trim next to it and the other side of the steering wheel and there are about 5 torx screws. Then the diagnosis socket.

[Mysticality]

@Lucas_R - They *should* work. It doesn't give measurements, but I'm pretty damn sure the numberplate light housing is the same unit across a lot of the VWaG models of the same size. (Not comparing Fabia to Treg, but you know what I mean.)
There's one review that says they work...
I reckon go ahead with it. If they work, let us know and I'll put it in the main post for everybody looking for some.
If they work, I'm buying some.

@wfdTamar- I was checking out the Yeti in the dealership car park, and I accidentally took out the headlight control unit. I've been trying ever since. Thanks for the tip, its a major time saver!

[Lucas_R]

^ thanks for the reply. I ordered these LED's for my brothers Skoda today along with a few other bits and pieces for my car. I'll let you know if they work.

[Lucas_R]

^ Sorry for hi jacking your thread, but the LED numberplate lights from Bold Sport i was talking about above threw up a "bulb out" light on the dash of my brothers 2012 Octy vRS.

They do put out a really nice white light though. Im going to get some ceramic resistors from Jaycar and see if i can trick the Canbus like some other guys have done.

[Mysticality]

^ Sorry for hi jacking your thread, but the LED numberplate lights from Bold Sport i was talking about above threw up a "bulb out" light on the dash of my brothers 2012 Octy vRS.

They do put out a really nice white light though. Im going to get some ceramic resistors from Jaycar and see if i can trick the Canbus like some other guys have done.

Thats fine.

Its a shame that these don't work, though.
I'd love to solder some resistors onto the LED's I have, myself, but I'm just too damned worried... This being my first brand new car, all to myself. >.<

[tooch]

I bought some 'Aerpro' LED lights from Autobarn the other day, did the resistor trick, but still get an error message. Maybe I need bigger resistors or something, not sure. Ended up using the lights in the interior instead.

[kamold]

Check this thread:

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f15/error-free-number-plate-led-lighting-cheap-easy-way-69353.html

What spec resistors are you using?
Mine are still going strong after about 6 months.

[kamold]

Thats fine.

Its a shame that these don't work, though.
I'd love to solder some resistors onto the LED's I have, myself, but I'm just too damned worried... This being my first brand new car, all to myself. >.<

Given the other more extensive mods you have installed this would be one of the least intrusive and lowest risk I would have thought...

[Lucas_R]

I got the resistors from Jaycar today. Im going to have a go on the weekend. With the resistor in place, it will take the voltage of the LED's above 4.0 watts - enough to bypass the canbus.

I'll let you know how it goes.

By the way, this is on my brothers 1 month old Octy vRS......

[tooch]

Check this thread:

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f15/error-free-number-plate-led-lighting-cheap-easy-way-69353.html

What spec resistors are you using?
Mine are still going strong after about 6 months.

I used the exact spec that was listed in that thread, 270R (Jaycar labelling) 1 Watt.

Maybe the bulbs I used were less powerful?

[kamold]

These are the resitors I used:
0R22ohm 5 Watt Wire Wound Resistor - Jaycar Electronics

The LED bulbs will vary widely in what current they draw from one brand to the next I would assume. So you'd need to crack out the multimeter to measure the voltage drop across the terminals with the LED bulb installed, then check its resistance (removed from the holder) to determine the draw. Then test against the original filament globe and try and match it by using an appropriate resistor.

Current draw (amps) = power (watts)/12volts approx

Basically the Body Control Modules in the newer cars seem to have a very tight tolerance range when it comes to determining bulb out. LED globes that work fine in a MkV Golf or 8Pa A3 cause the BCM in my Skoda to go all sad panda on me. Since the 22ohm5w resistors went in happy days If I did it again I would use something like 100ohm5w which might generate less heat but it asn't been an issue so far.