Mysticality's Light Thread!!

[wfdTamar]

I cant help thinking that tinting the lights then doing an HID conversion is a bit like adding 20kg lead ballast to the car and then removing all your doorcards and sound deadening to get it back to stock weight again

I can't help agreeing, not to mention I reckon it looks a bit on the naf side - and the black grill - well. I think an intervention is needed before Mysticality completely boganises her RS to the point it is indistinguishable from an inner city rice burner.

As for a place for driving light switches - I have a few blank spots in the row of switches below the heater controls. Not ergonomically a good spot and I don't know how to get in there yet, but it would look factory.

[pologti18t]

For those with projector lights... these guys provide a better HID upgrade path Bi-xenon: Morimoto Mini D2S 2.0 - HID Projectors from The Retrofit Source Inc

[Mysticality]

I can't help agreeing, not to mention I reckon it looks a bit on the naf side - and the black grill - well. I think an intervention is needed before Mysticality completely boganises her RS to the point it is indistinguishable from an inner city rice burner.

As for a place for driving light switches - I have a few blank spots in the row of switches below the heater controls. Not ergonomically a good spot and I don't know how to get in there yet, but it would look factory.

Her? XD

I need to clean all of the black stuff off and redo it properly. Again.
And it is not boganised!!... I haven't lowered it like a "low-lux", I haven't given it massive subwoofers, etc. XD

The things I need to do, though, are a UHF and some hidden spotties/LED light bar, for all this long distance stuff. Its at 22,000km now, after about 6 months of ownership. A lot of it is at night, and in convoys with other people in 4WD's. >.<

One thought is possibly finding some ACTUAL stock switches for under the Climatronic, but then it'd only be a soft switch not a hard switch, which would be a problem.

[gldgti]

One thought is possibly finding some ACTUAL stock switches for under the Climatronic, but then it'd only be a soft switch not a hard switch, which would be a problem.

You can get little latching relays from jaycar for about $7.00 each....

[Lucas_R]

Low: H7
High: H1
Parker (Non-vRS): T10.

T10 must be incandescent, or resisted LED.

Fankyou.

[wfdTamar]

Her? XD

.....And it is not boganised!!...

The things I need to do, though, are a UHF and some hidden spotties/LED light bar, for all this long distance stuff. ........and in convoys with other people in 4WD's. >.<

Oh, sorry. Don't know where I got the idea that you are a woman. Maybe the Kia photo?

[brad]

I think an intervention is needed before Mysticality completely boganises her RS to the point it is indistinguishable from an inner city rice burner.

Rice is different from bogan but in this case, I think you've nailed it. It's like Fried Rice, a dish that is easily available in any Aussie Chinese restaurant but never heard of in China.

I look at what Mysticality is doing with his car & cringe - especially when he can't be shagged fixing a flat tyre but has time to stuff about with inconsequential stuff.

Oh well, it isn't my car, I don't have to drive it or look at it, so if he's happy then good luck to her.

[zei20t]

bitchy much?

[brad]

just stating my opinion.

[kamold]

At the risk of sounding like a prat, let's keep this forum above the level of discourse of some others.

We've all bought Skodas because we are a bit individual so let's respect that individuality and keep negative opinions to ourself unless solicited.

[Mysticality]

Oh, sorry. Don't know where I got the idea that you are a woman. Maybe the Kia photo?

Fair enough.
She just models a whole lot better than I do.
I mean, not like I can go and take a new photo of the vehicle is it? :p

Rice is different from bogan but in this case, I think you've nailed it. It's like Fried Rice, a dish that is easily available in any Aussie Chinese restaurant but never heard of in China.

I look at what Mysticality is doing with his car & cringe - especially when he can't be shagged fixing a flat tyre but has time to stuff about with inconsequential stuff.

Its not so much with the being bothered, its more to do with the fact that $550 is a lot of money for two tyres, especially in this job climate, and as of yet, I don't actually HAVE two new tyres to replace the old ones with. Time or not, there is nothing that can be done at this point.

so if he's happy then good luck to her.

I am male.

[DunlopRS]

getting back on track…..
I too am somewhat disappointed in the high beams on my RS. Not a patch on the high beams of my previous 2 AUS assembled cars (a lot may be to do with the Octavia only having 2x55W while the AUS cars had 4x55W..). Straight after taking delivery I replaced the low & high beam globes with osram nightbreaker plus (55W, cheap from powerbulbs) which made a significant difference & lifted the high beam to just acceptable. However, after a close run in with a couple of roos on my last trip to the in-laws I am seriously considering a light bar & decent spot lights regardless of the looks (all that will then be needed is a bale of hay in the boot to make me think I got the Subaru…).
Has anyone put a ‘light bar’ on an Octavia? I am yet to get underneath and look but the attachment into the number plate holes on the front bumper does not seem very secure, even for a set of light polycarbonate lights? Any experiences??
thanks

[Mysticality]

The unibar and lights attached to the plastic bumper of my 2007 Rio held on fine, for 12 months of rough tracks, dirt tracks, campsites and dodgy NSW highways and back roads. I doubt it would be a problem for the Octy.

That being said, the front of the octy is curved. The numberplate, when attached, ends up moulding to the bumper.
The unibar won't be able to go.
As far as a light bar is concerned, the most stealthy way I have thought of to attach it is either underneath a roof rack, situated at the very front of the rails, or behind the bottom grille, attached to the front metal section behind the bumper.
When my car goes in for its 4th BCM (aftermarket HID's attack. not putting them back in.) I'm going to ask them to remove the bottom grille, so I can go about my investigations and measuring, without having to take the bumper off.

I had a look at attaching the two old large halogen spotties behind the bottom grille, and they wouldn't fit.
Well, they would, but you would have to attach them to the bottom of the skid pan. So any time you actually scrape something, it'll rip the mounts to shreds. Not a good idea, although looked great with two of them lit up.

This is the light bar I ended up looking at.
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Something like this would be excellent. You could mount them somewhere small and discrete... Like that useless bottom section of black plastic on the front bumper.
SR-M2 Flush Mount Driving
At US$169 each, minus any shipping, its a bit expensive, though.


I know I am going to get some more high beam lighting. Its a safety issue.
I'll let you know what I end up with.

[IBN]

I've used a light bar successfully on my Scout. It has been braced to the steel bar behind the plastic bumper so shake and vibration are minimal, even on dirt roads. The install is Ver1.0, so next time the whole thing would be more refined.
Considering I used some old Cibie Oscar+ lights which are quite heavy, I'm quite happy with the result. Night driving is once again a pleasure.
Cheers, Ivars.

[Mysticality]

I would love to see some pics of this setup, please.


-Matt