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Polo GTI High Oil Usage - Discussion Thread

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  • Originally posted by jivebug View Post
    Hi, i am sorry if it has been asked many times before but how did you run in your 2nd engine? I am so sick of trying to get information off ANYONE concerning the CORRECT running in procedure and part of that is other questions like: Do you use semi synthetic because I cant find mineral oil 5w-30 504-507 spec?. Penrite Enviro semi syn came to mind IF one was to go down the "different way" to run in a engine. NO ONE at the Dealership or VW Australia or various mechanics would say if VW use different "running in oil" or the usual stuff for new or rebuilt engines? For example:
    does one with a rebuilt engine drain whatever was originally put in with say a Semi Synthetic mentioned above if so for how long? Would one take the "harder version" (load/deceleration thing) of running in straight after swapping to the semi, likewise for how long? Would one change the semi after 1500km and if so then back to full syn or a bit longer on the semi (till the rings have bedded in?) Is everything bull**** and one just leaves the oil in it comes with and run it in by the book till you reach 15000km or whatever ?? Any correct information would be greatly appreciated (for my friend)
    From the huge numbers in complaints over oil consumption from owners of every models of VW around the world, I came to the conclusion the gentle engine break in do not work. My chances of having an oil burning engine is 50% be it gentle or hard run in I concluded.

    This is my method of running in my MY12 PGTI and I will report back the results as time goes by.
    100km- Load up the engine on various gears below 3000rpm with half throttle.
    200km- Occasional full thottle to 5000rpm and load the engine up on manual mode 7th gear with half throttle from 1500rpm tilll 5000rpm.
    300km- Find a small hill and climb up using the highest gear possible on manual mode. example 3rd gear 2000rpm 1/4 throttle till peak then cruise down on 2nd gear using engine brake most of the time.
    350km - Short burst of sprinting on a long straight road reving till Redline from 1st till 5th gear or speed of around 200km/h then use engine brake to slow to 40km/h then 200km/h again. Total of 3 times. Trying to let the clutch plates settle in also.
    500km- Change oil and original filter out replace with cheap American Mobil 1 5W30.
    500km- 2 full power dyno run done to get a baseline power.
    500-1100km- Drive as normal but daily redline on at least first 3 gears.
    1100km- Change oil & filter again using cheap American Mobil 1 5W30. Change gearbox oil!!!
    1100km- Did 3 times 0-225km/h pull on the straight highway with 5mins cooling down in between. Did not want to stress the engine too much so let off at 225km/h. Vmax shd be 230km/h.
    2100km- Went on highway cross country to fully stretch out the engine and brakes. Did a total of approximately 800km averaging 140-200km/h
    2900km- Done a total of 1800km and check the dipstick with engine fully warmed up and parked for 5mins. Still around the max mark or 95% on the dipstick
    2920km- Change oil and filter again with Mobil 1 5W30 and planning to go to the same dyno for a power run to compare with the power curve during the previous run.

    25,000km - Always on Mobil1 5w30ESP 504/507specs and oil change every 5000km. Never moved below "B" point.
    ***Latest report, so far 4 VW have used this method here and uses only 500ml of oil every 10,000km.***

    Points to note.
    1. Make sure your oil is at least 88 degrees celcius before you load or rev up your engine.
    2. DO NOT IDLE your engine for more than 5mins. Switch it off and restart if possible.
    3. After every hard rev, try to use engine brake(select M mode) to slow the car for a few seconds each time.
    4. Even though the GTI has a power assisted water circulation system to cool the turbo bearing down when engine is shut off, try to idle the car for 1min before shutting it down.
    5. If you have a mountain around your area, drive up using the highest gear possible and keep rpm to below 3000rpm. Cruise down using engine brake then drive straight to a workshop to have the oil changed out.
    6. Follow my method at your own risk but oil change done more often wont hurt anything other than your wallet.
    Last edited by kevinctr; 10-09-2013, 07:10 PM.

    Comment


    • From someone who has had 2 6R GTi's and ran them in identically:

      Originally posted by Gambit View Post
      Quotes for the truth! My first red gti hardly used much oil I think I was 1lt down at 5k km with a full self oil change. My new white gti guzzles through the oil . at 5k Kms I had consumed at least 1.5-2lt of oil and I am at 21k Kms now and I have lost count how many times I have had to self top up. Right now its low on oil again and I have to take another trip to the dealer for more oil, so I can do a full oil change. I ran in both cars in the exact same fashion and that's hard from the get go and drive the in the same manner. Unfortunately after owning two of these cars , I take it as part and parcel of ownership and just deal with it. I could easily go back to a dealer and crack a hissy fit about consumption, but I have very little time to bother and have the car off the road with all the hassle. I might get a proper sample for a full oil analysis this time round.
      Resident grumpy old fart
      VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

      Comment


      • Thanks for the info everyone. I gather Mobil1 ESP is full synthetic (just cheaper quality??) Ta

        Comment


        • Originally posted by jivebug View Post
          Thanks for the info everyone. I gather Mobil1 ESP is full synthetic (just cheaper quality??) Ta
          Mobil1 quality is fine. Price is good if you know where to look.

          504.00/507.00 has come down in price in the last 5 years and there isn't a lot of difference between shell / Penrite / etc
          carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
          I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

          Comment


          • Originally posted by kevinctr View Post
            From the huge numbers in complaints over oil consumption from owners of every models of VW around the world, I came to the conclusion the gentle engine break in do not work. My chances of having an oil burning engine is 50% be it gentle or hard run in I concluded.

            This is my method of running in my MY12 PGTI and I will report back the results as time goes by.
            100km- Load up the engine on various gears below 3000rpm with half throttle.
            200km- Occasional full thottle to 5000rpm and load the engine up on manual mode 7th gear with half throttle from 1500rpm tilll 5000rpm.
            300km- Find a small hill and climb up using the highest gear possible on manual mode. example 3rd gear 2000rpm 1/4 throttle till peak then cruise down on 2nd gear using engine brake most of the time.
            350km - Short burst of sprinting on a long straight road reving till Redline from 1st till 5th gear or speed of around 200km/h then use engine brake to slow to 40km/h then 200km/h again. Total of 3 times. Trying to let the clutch plates settle in also.
            500km- Change oil and original filter out replace with cheap American Mobil 1 5W30.
            500km- 2 full power dyno run done to get a baseline power.
            500-1100km- Drive as normal but daily redline on at least first 3 gears.
            1100km- Change oil & filter again using cheap American Mobil 1 5W30. Change gearbox oil!!!
            1100km- Did 3 times 0-225km/h pull on the straight highway with 5mins cooling down in between. Did not want to stress the engine too much so let off at 225km/h. Vmax shd be 230km/h.
            2100km- Went on highway cross country to fully stretch out the engine and brakes. Did a total of approximately 800km averaging 140-200km/h
            2900km- Done a total of 1800km and check the dipstick with engine fully warmed up and parked for 5mins. Still around the max mark or 95% on the dipstick
            2920km- Change oil and filter again with Mobil 1 5W30 and planning to go to the same dyno for a power run to compare with the power curve during the previous run.

            25,000km - Always on Mobil1 5w30ESP 504/507specs and oil change every 5000km. Never moved below "B" point.
            ***Latest report, so far 4 VW have used this method here and uses only 500ml of oil every 10,000km.***

            Points to note.
            1. Make sure your oil is at least 88 degrees celcius before you load or rev up your engine.
            2. DO NOT IDLE your engine for more than 5mins. Switch it off and restart if possible.
            3. After every hard rev, try to use engine brake(select M mode) to slow the car for a few seconds each time.
            4. Even though the GTI has a power assisted water circulation system to cool the turbo bearing down when engine is shut off, try to idle the car for 1min before shutting it down.
            5. If you have a mountain around your area, drive up using the highest gear possible and keep rpm to below 3000rpm. Cruise down using engine brake then drive straight to a workshop to have the oil changed out.
            6. Follow my method at your own risk but oil change done more often wont hurt anything other than your wallet.
            This is crazily complicated! Something new every 50 to 250kms!

            I wish I had time to be this vigilant! (or should I say obsessive? )

            It really shouldn't have to be this hard.

            Personally, I would say run it in by the book. At least then you can say you did.

            I ran mine in hard, and the oil keeps disappearing.

            For what it is worth, I tried VW LongLife (when it was Castrol), Shell Helix Ultra Extra, and Fuchs Titan. The Shell oil disappeared less quickly in my car, though still very borderline...
            2011 Polo GTI | Black | 5 doors | Comfort pack | Audio pack | 9w7 Bluetooth | Xenons - a Return to VW!
            Previous ride: 2008 Mazda2 - ZOOM-ZOOM indeed!
            1st Ride: 1988 Red VW Fox Sedan!

            Comment


            • wow have been browsing this entire thread. I went down yesterday to the VW service shop in Parramatta for the oil issue and the gearbox issue and there has been a sqeaking noises coming from the supercharger. Mind you it has been 3 times taking the car in for the engine oil issue. They decided to install 'modified pipework' which is now done and it feels like the car has lost a tad of power. Any reasons why?

              The gearbox they said they will install a new clutch next week and also fix the supercharger issue

              Also what is the best way to ask for a complete engine rebuild bearing in mind I only have 2 months of warranty left.

              We payed our hard earned money to buy a proper car and we get this rubbish from VW load of crap

              Comment


              • Polo GTI High Oil Usage - Discussion Thread

                Originally posted by osman View Post
                wow have been browsing this entire thread. I went down yesterday to the VW service shop in Parramatta for the oil issue and the gearbox issue and there has been a sqeaking noises coming from the supercharger. Mind you it has been 3 times taking the car in for the engine oil issue. They decided to install 'modified pipework' which is now done and it feels like the car has lost a tad of power. Any reasons why?

                The gearbox they said they will install a new clutch next week and also fix the supercharger issue

                Also what is the best way to ask for a complete engine rebuild bearing in mind I only have 2 months of warranty left.

                We payed our hard earned money to buy a proper car and we get this rubbish from VW load of crap
                They have no obligation to rebuild the engine unless you can show that the updated pipe work and software (reason it feels down on power) has not solved the issue.
                sigpic
                Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by jivebug View Post
                  Thanks for the info everyone. I gather Mobil1 ESP is full synthetic (just cheaper quality??) Ta
                  All 504/507 have high HTHS of at least 3.5mPa.s and its among the highest in 5w30 grade.

                  Comment


                  • GLLubricants have 504/507 Mobil1 at a very good price. They do mail order.
                    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
                    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by RoknRob View Post
                      This is crazily complicated! Something new every 50 to 250kms!

                      I wish I had time to be this vigilant! (or should I say obsessive? )

                      It really shouldn't have to be this hard.

                      Personally, I would say run it in by the book. At least then you can say you did.

                      I ran mine in hard, and the oil keeps disappearing.

                      For what it is worth, I tried VW LongLife (when it was Castrol), Shell Helix Ultra Extra, and Fuchs Titan. The Shell oil disappeared less quickly in my car, though still very borderline...
                      MY11 PGTI have different pistons from the MY12.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by kevinctr View Post
                        MY11 PGTI have different pistons from the MY12.
                        Moot point.
                        it's an engine in a mass-produced run-about, not an F1 engine.

                        Seriously, running at 200kph? how many of us can do that?

                        Backing off at 225kph becaause the extra 5kph to v-max might stress the engine? ROFL.
                        carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
                        I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

                        Comment


                        • Must have his own race track to achieve that run-in process.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by staz88 View Post
                            Must have his own race track to achieve that run-in process.
                            probably drives up into malaysia & has a pocket full of "get out of jail" vouchers. IIRC, there are some decent bits of road there. There's also some decent bits in Singapore but the police seem much stricter.

                            Good luck to him if he can get away with it. You'd be crucified in Sydney.
                            carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
                            I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

                            Comment


                            • Just got my first service done. Looks like VW Barloworld is using Mobile 1 ESP Formula 5w-30 now.

                              I was burning 100ml/1000km after my engine rebuild with Castrol long life. Lets see how this goes.

                              Comment


                              • Wow you had an engine rebuild and it still went through 100mL/1000km ?!?!?!? What happened after a rebuild for you ?

                                Originally posted by Zakarados View Post
                                Just got my first service done. Looks like VW Barloworld is using Mobile 1 ESP Formula 5w-30 now.

                                I was burning 100ml/1000km after my engine rebuild with Castrol long life. Lets see how this goes.

                                Comment

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