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If the ding is on the cat I would say just leave it alone. DP is under the car so you don't have to worry much about the looks. I am sure It shouldn't explode or anything like that
2013 Tiguan 155kW DSG | Leather | Bi Xenon's | Park Assist 2.0 | Panoramic Sunroof | RCD 510 | RVC | MDI
Mods: APR K04 v3.1 | HPA Haldex | S3 Intercooler | Custom 3" Quad Tip Exhaust | Carbonio Intake | WL HD RSB | GFB DV+ | Koni Yellow Sport Struts & Eibach Springs | HP LCAs | Custom Audio ( Alpine MRX V70 , Audison Bit Ten , Dynamat , Stealth Sub ) | Car Tablet | CB Radio | Sports Pedals | RLine Door Sills | Wheel Arch Extensions | 3 Bar MAP & BKR8EIX | RT VCDS .... Performance: 0 - 100 km/h, 5.0 seconds ( Racelogic PBox tested ) Tiguan Build Thread
That looks like either the resonator or the cat - hard to tell because the photo is taken so close.
If the metal is indeed cut, either take it to Premier Exhausts and ask him to tig weld it shut with stainless rod or you could try some exhaust putty from Repco/Supercheap etc.
Hi Lucas, yeah, thought i may have spotted you out near Market Town? I did see a U.G. R over there, but didn't recognize the number plate. Your plate is a little more discrete than mine, haha...
It's kind of a shallow cut on the catalytic converter (didn't get the resonated version as i'll leave the rest of the pipe stock), not all the way through. Was intending on getting Premier to install for me, so they may as well do a little repair while they are at it... Then off to Rennenhaus for new tune file!
If the cut doesn't go all the way through then in theory you can leave it...but if Premier are fitting it then you may as well have him weld it up as it will take him 2mins. I think you should get Premier to weld the subframe bracket (ill find a photo to explain) instead of using the 2x bolts - as mine kept slipping and allowing the bracket to move...no matter how tight i did them up. Getting it welded will stop the possibility of the bracket moving.
This is a pic of my car from when i had the 42DD dump pipe fitted.
The chaps at Unitronic make some nice stuff. Best place to buy Unitronic gear is Speedlife Motorsport - his shipping prices to Australia are pretty good. I've ordered several Unitronic items from Speedlife and no issues. The only issue is that his website isnt up to date with all the items that Unitronic (and other brands) make. So just shoot him an email with the part number of the product you are interested in.
Yes, i think i would have avoided this one if i knew then what i know now. It's a well made product that just doesn't fit too well & should still be in the company's R&D department.
Just driving around fairly sedately, mine is fine & I enjoy the slightly more throaty exhaust note. However, under load it vibrates against heat shields & other components, i think. Seems to mainly happen around 2500 to 3000 RPM under harder acceleration & accentuated by up hill & veering right.
I took it back to my exhaust guy & he slightly flattened a section of the pipe where the rubbing was obvious & it's a bit better, but still needs just a little more 'persuasion'. Also been holding off on the stage 2 software until i get it sorted. (& my 2 local APR guys are currently on holidays)
If anyone is interested in a 3" DP there will be one becoming available within the next month. It is looking like a strong possibility that I'll part my car out.
As long as it's economically viable (I will pay a workshop to change back to the stock system sitting in my shed), then the DP and cat-back will be up for grabs.
Well after my exhaust guy had yet another go (without any physical cutting/welding/bending) & the rattling continued, i took Lucas_R's advice & whacked in an 80 duro lower engine mount insert from APR. Problem rattling due to the tight fit has now been resolved! The problem seemed to have been from the engine flexing a bit on it's mounts under load & the insert has solved it.
The car felt different as soon as i started it up. I get a little bit of a vibration through the more rigid mount as i let the clutch out from a standstill in 1st or reverse, but at least it's nothing vibrating against the downpipe like before! Don't know if i'm imagining it, but all other gear changes feel smoother & more precise as well, especially up or down into 2nd!
Ok, so been waiting for a mainstream plug and play type downpipe to become available for the 4MO Tiguan but this seems to be slow or not coming. So plan #2 was modifying a 3" Golf R DP , preferably with a resonator & 200 cell cat reduced into the standard CBE.
A couple of questions for those who are running aftermarket DP's:
1. Recommendations
2. Where to buy
3. Price
^ SPM (Steve Petty Motorsports) downpipe from DubAddiction. 3" stainless steel and 200 cel cat. Around $900 but price may have gone up due to the poor AUD. Perfect fitment on my Golf R....100% spot on. DubAddiction also stock CTS downpipes - but after having experience with both brands, my pick would be SPM.
If you decide to fit a resonator, i would recommend having a look at my Golf R build thread as i did the same thing. Found a high quality exhaust manufacturer in New Zealand who made me a custom stainless resonator and it was perfect.
A couple of questions for those who are running aftermarket DP's:
1. Recommendations
2. Where to buy
3. Price
Any assistance appreciated.
You could keep waiting but this is probably going to be an exercise in futility.
Otherwise you can:
1) Remove stock DP, knock out top cat with a hammer/screw driver and re-install (cheap and dirty but removes major restriction in stock DP). Note this is not 100% legal but who is going to know/check?
2) Purchase off the shelf Golf R DP and get an exhaust shop to modify to fit. Note this needs a cat to be legal on Aus. Cost $1,000-$1,500
3) Get a fully custom setup manufactured to suit. Cost $2,000-$2,500 for a full exhaust with DSG farts and high flow mandrel bent DP.
I'd go either option 2 or 3 to remain legal, though after 100,000km or so the performance of a stock cat is no where near as effective as when new so may as well remove it?????
I had a full exhaust on Tig 1 which was made by HPX/HM Headers in Melbourne. Initial system was non-res and was pretty loud (no drone) but after installing a resonator was a good compromise.
Unfortunately as there's not an off-the-shelf solution, you'll have to have some custom fabrication done whichever path you go down. I suggest finding a good exhaust shop and work through the options with them to see what they recommend / are happy to do.
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