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Also while out and about I thought I'd check my speedo and find out what effect down-sizing my tyres had on the accuracy/reading. Plus while I had the g-tech installed I figured I may as well check the 0-100 time while I was at it too.
Well it looks like the smaller tyres knock off around 0.1s. Butt dyno says it does feel a bit nippier too.
Though to give you an idea on the difficulty of getting an accurate time I did this run:
I suspect this piece of road may have had a small slope on it.
So moral of the story is to make sure the section of road you use is as close to flat as possible as even a small gradient can have a sizeable effect on the result.
That's going to be an issue on almost all roads unfortunately (unless we cruise next time to the Nullarbor?); good reason to run an average over both directions.
Awesome first time though, stock GTI just won't keep up.
--- FS: 2016 Golf GTI 40 years, white, DSG, 18,xxxkm ------------------------------------------------------------------- 2019 Audi SQ5 | 2016 Golf GTI CS + OZ UL HLTs | Retired: 2018 Audi RS3 sportback + OZ Leggera HLTs
2017 Golf R Wolfsburg Sportwagen | 2016 BMW 340i + M-Performance tune/exhaust | 2015 Audi S3 sedan
2014 Golf GTI + OZ Leggera HLTs | 2012 Polo 77TSI (hers) | 2010 Golf GTI Stage 2 + OZ ST LMs
That's going to be an issue on almost all roads unfortunately (unless we cruise next time to the Nullarbor?); good reason to run an average over both directions.
Yes. So the other thing you can do is find your favourite piece of "test" road and run all your tests on the same piece of road. At least that way you have a repeatable result (even if it is out).
Awesome first time though, stock GTI just won't keep up.
Thanks. I tried to pick a cruise route that had a twisty, slightly moist hill climb so that I could keep in front of the pack of GTI's snapping at my heels behind me
Yes. So the other thing you can do is find your favourite piece of "test" road and run all your tests on the same piece of road. At least that way you have a repeatable result (even if it is out).
Am I right in thinking that Polar FIS was able to read a 0-100 function as well? If yes, have you ever compared it to the GPS data?
--- FS: 2016 Golf GTI 40 years, white, DSG, 18,xxxkm ------------------------------------------------------------------- 2019 Audi SQ5 | 2016 Golf GTI CS + OZ UL HLTs | Retired: 2018 Audi RS3 sportback + OZ Leggera HLTs
2017 Golf R Wolfsburg Sportwagen | 2016 BMW 340i + M-Performance tune/exhaust | 2015 Audi S3 sedan
2014 Golf GTI + OZ Leggera HLTs | 2012 Polo 77TSI (hers) | 2010 Golf GTI Stage 2 + OZ ST LMs
Am I right in thinking that Polar FIS was able to read a 0-100 function as well? If yes, have you ever compared it to the GPS data?
Yes it does, and yes we have. The key things to note are that the FIS+ is based on vehicle road speed estimates (while it's using the most accurate bus speed, it's still not perfect), and it's subject to errors based on the sampling rate. The GPS, on the other hand, is a 10Hz chipset that samples every 0.1 seconds, so once it's up and running and the car is on the move it's nicely accurate. However the Gtech has a built-in rollout feature, where it doesn't actually start the timer until the accelerometer has detected motion and the system has reported that the car has moved a short distance (from memory, 12 inches). (The newer models allow this rollout to be customised, but IIRC my older model can't be.) There are a host of other factors as well... road/environment factors, mounting points of the Gtech that can cause it to take longer to trigger the timer, etc etc.
Am I right in thinking that Polar FIS was able to read a 0-100 function as well? If yes, have you ever compared it to the GPS data?
Yes I've used both though I trust the GPS based timer more for an absolute value (as long as you first find a flat stretch of road first).
I've found that although the Polar FIS was repeatable, the results were consistently slower. Also using LC with the Autopolar is a bit of a pain as once you have disengaged traction control you then have to set up the timer.
When you disengage traction control it puts up a warning in the MFD which over-rides whatever else you had up and you have to navigate the autopolar menus again to set up the timer. If you've pulled out onto a highway you generally want to get moving straight away so flicking through menus on your MFD after setting up for an LC run is not something I like to do.
The auto-polar is good for non-LC runs. The good thing about the GPS based timer is it takes out all speedo calibration errors. Although with my current wheel/tyre setup the ECU speed and GPS speed are very close (within 1km/hr).
Sorry Damien, I'm not a fan of the Savannah on a Tig in that finish, especially on a black car; they just don't stand out. (The photo above looks particularly bad given the tyre specs, but my opinion stands.) Whereas I love your OZs - perfect finish, perfect size:
I'm with Adam on this one, though i do reckon they would look nicer in silver for some contrast.
Your wheels look awesome on the Roc!
Yes I agree the OZs look awesome on the Roc. Though the Savannahs are pretty fat on it too.
I'm also not 100% convinced on the darker wheels on a black car. I'd probably prefer them to be the stock polished finish - especially given I'll likely be selling the car in the near future. So this is also a return to stock exercise.
Well it's not looking good for the painted Savannahs (wife says no to dark wheels too). These were originally a polished finish but due to damage to the surface finish they got painted.
Unfortunately there's too much work/cost involved to get them back to a polished/silver finish (sand blast and repaint) so I think I may have to let this one slide for now.
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