Mk2 Tiguan Tuning

[INASNT]

Aftermarket catted downpipe has the CAT under the middle of the car, the stock CAT is directly after the turbo, the 2 x 02 sensors, before and after stock CAT are both located near the back of the turbo so the position of the aftermarket CAT is the reason the check enginer light comes on if you dont program it out as the CAT is located after both 02 sensors.

Even with a spacer and programming it out my check engine light sometimes comes on randomly, I just clear it with OBD2.

[HPRS230]

Can anyone tell me if a catted downpipe will throw a check engine light if only using a jb4 (instead of a tune which can turn off the trigger)?

You get a CEL

P227000 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean; Bank 1 Sensor 2

I have JB4 and CTS DP with 200 cell cat and spacer and I get one every month, Mrs is use to it now and forgets to tell me to clear it.

Mate in NSW has the same set up CTS and spacer and has never had a CEL.

Climate seems to matter, I'm in Brisbane, might be better worst north, better south???

Yea auto clear messes with the active cruse control. I have an ODB11 and clear when Mrs says it's ok.

Skoda RS230

[Psych101]

You get a CEL

P227000 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean; Bank 1 Sensor 2

I have JB4 and CTS DP with 200 cell cat and spacer and I get one every month, Mrs is use to it now and forgets to tell me to clear it.

Mate in NSW has the same set up CTS and spacer and has never had a CEL.

Climate seems to matter, I'm in Brisbane, might be better worst north, better south???

Yea auto clear messes with the active cruse control. I have an ODB11 and clear when Mrs says it's ok.

Skoda RS230

Thanks mate

[Dan_3MPS]

Selling my JB4 with the Aluminium Case and Wireless Connect Module if anyone is looking for an easy powerup on their 162.

Thread is in the 'Parts for Sale' area of the forum.

[phonebooth]

I'm coming up on 15,000km's and am planning on a stage 1 tune following completion of the first service.
Have been told APR retail is $1299, i've heard of 10% off promotions. Are the tuners negotiable on price, there are no promotions on at the moment.
I think i've settled on using APR as i'll only go with a stage 1 and do not plan to make any physical modifications to the vehicle.
If at some stage i want to go back to stock is this something i can get done easily or am i up for another $1300 clams?

Was there a reason why you waited till your first service or just coincidental timing? The reason I ask is because I'm looking for something now whether it be JB4 or Stage 1 APR. Sitting on the fence whether I should wait till 1st service for potential manufacturing defects or do it now @ just under 3000km.

[iDiesel]

I'm coming up on 15,000km's and am planning on a stage 1 tune following completion of the first service.

Hi Janus,
Did you go through with the upgrade?
How you find it?

[tigger73]

Selling my JB4 with the Aluminium Case and Wireless Connect Module if anyone is looking for an easy powerup on their 162.

Thread is in the 'Parts for Sale' area of the forum.

Did you ever do a full review of this? Surprised not more people are running these as there's some reasonable gains for those concerned about maintaining warranties.

[tigger73]

Was there a reason why you waited till your first service or just coincidental timing? The reason I ask is because I'm looking for something now whether it be JB4 or Stage 1 APR. Sitting on the fence whether I should wait till 1st service for potential manufacturing defects or do it now @ just under 3000km.

If you only have 3,000km on the clock I'd wait a bit longer. Get at least 5k on the clock and then get it fully checked over by and independent workshop (end of warranty inspection) before going for it. Of course if you go JB4 it does leave your options open for a bit longer.

[Dan_3MPS]

Did you ever do a full review of this? Surprised not more people are running these as there's some reasonable gains for those concerned about maintaining warranties.

Didn't end up writing a full review.

In short, they're a good thing for the $. Simple to install, first time is the hardest as you need to figure it out, take pics of how the factory mount their cables in the holders so you can put it back to stock when needed!

After a couple of trips back to the dealer for stuff I had the full install/uninstall routine down to 20mins or so, mainly used threading the cable down to the OBD port and removing the undertray to access plug 'D' as per the Golf R fitting instructions.

Wireless Connect Kit and the extra app (about $30 or so) is a must have in my opinion. Means you can adjust maps on the fly, change maps very easily and look at the included gauges in real time. I'm sure you could use an Android phone and mirrorlink to display the gauges on the head unit, I never went that far with it.

Map 1 is a smooth and comfortable map, Map 2 is a little more obvious and you can feel when it comes in. I also did a custom Map 6 based on some of the feedback from the guys running Skodas, it was a good map and gave a reasonable shove in the back.

I'm selling because I've had it off the car since the last dealer trip, and decided I would like the cash for mountain bike stuff. Unsure if I'm keeping the Tiguan too, should have just bought the Golf R wagon that I wanted in the first place! It doesn't put a smile on my face the way my old GTI did. Pressure from Mrs as she wanted an SUV in the house...she got a 7.5 Comfortline and I enjoy driving that more than the Tiggy now...

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[tigger73]

Didn't end up writing a full review.

In short, they're a good thing for the $. Simple to install, first time is the hardest as you need to figure it out, take pics of how the factory mount their cables in the holders so you can put it back to stock when needed!

After a couple of trips back to the dealer for stuff I had the full install/uninstall routine down to 20mins or so, mainly used threading the cable down to the OBD port and removing the undertray to access plug 'D' as per the Golf R fitting instructions.

Wireless Connect Kit and the extra app (about $30 or so) is a must have in my opinion. Means you can adjust maps on the fly, change maps very easily and look at the included gauges in real time. I'm sure you could use an Android phone and mirrorlink to display the gauges on the head unit, I never went that far with it.

Map 1 is a smooth and comfortable map, Map 2 is a little more obvious and you can feel when it comes in. I also did a custom Map 6 based on some of the feedback from the guys running Skodas, it was a good map and gave a reasonable shove in the back.

I'm selling because I've had it off the car since the last dealer trip, and decided I would like the cash for mountain bike stuff. Unsure if I'm keeping the Tiguan too, should have just bought the Golf R wagon that I wanted in the first place! It doesn't put a smile on my face the way my old GTI did. Pressure from Mrs as she wanted an SUV in the house...she got a 7.5 Comfortline and I enjoy driving that more than the Tiggy now...

Fair enough the Gen2 Tig is a bigger vehicle and I understand completely how running around in a hatch is more fun. The Gen1 Tig was slightly smaller and definitely easier to throw around corners. I think the new T-Roc (R) will be great if it ever makes it here but unfortunately the engine calibration is only going to be suitable for low sulphur fuels and they won't recalibrate it for us - at least not now anyway.

Good luck with the sale and if you change your mind drop an IS38 in the Tig and it'll bring a bit of the fun factor back.

[Dan_3MPS]

I do have the IS38 option sitting in the back of my mind!

Might be cheaper than a new car.

Now that a few people have got it done, is there a consensus on costs? Guessing $7-10k.

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[tigger73]

I do have the IS38 option sitting in the back of my mind!

Might be cheaper than a new car.

Now that a few people have got it done, is there a consensus on costs? Guessing $7-10k.

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My thoughts on it is IS38, DP and tune for around $5k. You could do it cheaper buying secondhand parts. Second hand IS38 can go for under $1000 so you could do it for $3k on a budget.


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[davman]

This is where my head is at at the moment too. Best scenario I can get away with is around the $5K mark - sourcing an 2nd hand IS38 for around the $1000 mark - and buying the CTS DP($1200), Inlet ($200), Drop in Filter ($150) from the tuner, Labour ($700), and IS38 Tune ($1700). If you want to get CTS gear from the USA then it seems you can save yourself probably about $400 on the DP and Inlet Pipe compared with buying from the tuner. Sourcing a second hand IS38 that is a good one, seems to be a little bit on the more difficult side. If any of you guys have any other advise on any of the above, or where you all get your parts from, then let us know.

[Dan_3MPS]

$5k is in the 'doable' range...hmmm. If that included a DSG tune in addition to the ECU tune it might be a good option.

More thinking required it seems, A Golf R 'SUV' does work for me.

[tigger73]

You will have to wait until an IS38 comes up. I wouldn't be getting one of a car any earlier than around 2015 unless you were going to rebuild it because they went through about 20 versions of the turbo before they started to get it right.

I'd suggest if you wanted to go down this path you talk to a few local workshops that do tuning and put you on their waiting list for when a Mk7 R is doing a turbo upgrade (or for when a turbo goes and you take the housing and get the internals upgraded).

This is going to be the cheapest route but something you'll have to wait for to come up and be at the right place at the right time. Perhaps advertise up a Wanted to Buy. You never know you may get lucky.