Tigger73's 162TSI Sportline

[tigger73]

@tigger73, would you mind sharing the products you used for each of the steps? did you apply iron remover as well? IPA wipe?
I'm thinking of DIYing the ceramic coating when I get my tiggy, but have never done car detailing before.
thanking you in advance.

It's not that hard - just time consuming. That's why it costs a fair bit to get someone else to do it as 80% of the cost is in the labour.

I have a drill-mounted polisher same as this - Meguiars DA Power System Polisher G3500INT | Sparesbox | Sparesbox

It's not as good as some of the other purpose made polishers on the market and is certainly smaller so takes more time to cover the same area, however if you're only going to occasionally do some polishing it's a good addition along with an electric drill.

I did wipe over the car with a microfibre cloth and some alcohol wipes after polishing and before putting the coating on to remove any residue.

[tigger73]

Quick update. Not a lot has been happening on the Sportline. Had a read done of the ECU and DSG the other week.

Going to be booking in the car for a "before" dyno in the next few weeks too. Will post up results once done.

I've still got to put a few more km on it first - sitting at around 2,000km at the moment. I'm planning on getting an oil change done at ~5,000km and then go from there.

[Wazza 162]

Quick update. Not a lot has been happening on the Sportline. Had a read done of the ECU and DSG the other week.

Going to be booking in the car for a "before" dyno in the next few weeks too. Will post up results once done.

I've still got to put a few more km on it first - sitting at around 2,000km at the moment. I'm planning on getting an oil change done at ~5,000km and then go from there.

I have the same view as yourself, waiting until one year or 15000 kms is way to long for a first oil change. Maybe recommend by dealership but goes against common sense.

[tigger73]

I have the same view as yourself, waiting until one year or 15000 kms is way to long for a first oil change. Maybe recommend by dealership but goes against common sense.

Agree 100%

The highest wear period for the engine is when it is new. You should change the oil once it starts to free up so you can dump all the particles that have come off in the wearing in process.

You really don’t want this stuff circulating around the engine. An oil/filter change is relatively cheap and also allows my mechanic to pick up any early warranty issues too.


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[Dan_3MPS]

For interest, mine has just clocked over 11000km and has noticeably loosened up in the last few weeks. Gave it a squirt in traffic the other day and got a pleasant surprise! Still on the original oil though, haven't checked the level but may have used some which would partially explain the extra pep...

[Wazza 162]

Agree 100%

The highest wear period for the engine is when it is new. You should change the oil once it starts to free up so you can dump all the particles that have come off in the wearing in process.

You really don’t want this stuff circulating around the engine. An oil/filter change is relatively cheap and also allows my mechanic to pick up any early warranty issues too.


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I mentioned to the dealer that I wanted to change my oil and filter at 2000kms for the reasons you stated they tried to tell me the engines are run in at factory, they may be turned over on the bench by air or electric means but certainly not run as a combustion engine.I think they actually believed their own bs.

[Transporter]

I mentioned to the dealer that I wanted to change my oil and filter at 2000kms for the reasons you stated they tried to tell me the engines are run in at factory, they may be turned over on the bench by air or electric means but certainly not run as a combustion engine.I think they actually believed their own bs.

They tell you what they're fed in to tell you.

[tigger73]

They tell you what they're fed in to tell you.

Yes it's called sticking to the company line. I couldn't get a straight answer out of VW when I was querying spare tyre sizes and whether I could run a Trendline/Comfortline wheel as a spare on a Sportline.

I think it comes back to what can legally be given as advise. If it's not in the manual or other document then they can't tell you anything different.

[Mattlock]

I’m pretty sure there’s a production line video on YouTube which shows a Golf’s engine being started, revved really hard over 30-40 seconds and then having its oil dropped, all whilst on the production line.

The video explains it’s a part of the process to bed in the pistons.

Perhaps it’s just for the R?


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[tigger73]

Thinking wheels. OZ Racing Superturismo in 20x8.5 ET30 looks pretty nice:

[tigger73]

OK a few other wheel options...

BBS CH-R:




Borbet GTX:




OZ Racing Leggera HLT




OZ Racing Ultraleggera 19" (not sure if you can get these in 20's for the Tig):




Vossen CVT:

[Dutch77]

Bunnings.

[tigger73]

Bunnings.

That’s definitely the budget option.

Given that I’m looking at 20’s there’s probably a limited market for OEM/second-hand options in the right sort of offset.

So these are on the longer term list of upgrade items. I’m certainly not unhappy with the Kapstadt wheels. My only criticism of them (aside from the cleaning) is that they could do with a bit more offset which will be more obvious when lowered.


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[Dutch77]

That’s definitely the budget option.

Given that I’m looking at 20’s there’s probably a limited market for OEM/second-hand options in the right sort of offset.

So these are on the longer term list of upgrade items. I’m certainly not unhappy with the Kapstadt wheels. My only criticism of them (aside from the cleaning) is that they could do with a bit more offset which will be more obvious when lowered.

Agreed on all points.

Unfortunately most Aussie Tiguan buyers are boring and have no wheel interest, or they want a faux gangsta car and buy some cheap chrome crap from one of the online stores.

If the car is a longer term keeper or likely to be replaced with a similar Dub later that you can just carry the wheels over, invest when ready in the OZs as discussed; or consider some of the cheaper brands from overseas that are reputable e.g. Borbet ex Europe; Hartmann ex USA.

[Melbourne_Tiggy]

OK a few other wheel options:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35541[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35542[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35543[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35544[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35545[/ATTACH]

I don’t mind those OZ racing rims or the black painted/coated rims. Would you paint/coat your current rims black?