Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

[Sirocco20348]

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Seem to have very little negative camber in the front. Even with the ball joints and camber tops maxed which is disappointing. Wish I saved the money on the camber tops and just got control arms instead.

With your track setup, the tubular subframe and tubular control arms are a good consideration...

I'm just not sure about those rose joints on the control arms, I wonder how long they would last..

How much camber do you have at the moment anyway? 2" surely....

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[dylan8]

If you lower it to get the arms level you will pickup a smidge more camber. Going by the pic is say it can come down a bit more. What tops you have again?

[HaydEn]

Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

If you lower it to get the arms level you will pickup a smidge more camber. Going by the pic is say it can come down a bit more. What tops you have again?

The control arms are actually level at the moment. So anything lower will be angled, how I had the ride height before meant the control arms were quite angled. But never felt it to be a hinderance with bump steer etc. I’ll be lowering the front approximately 25mm, don’t think I’ll get much lower than that in the rear.

Silver project tops. Also have to dremel out the factory strut top to be able to tighten the nuts with them set to max neg.


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[HaydEn]

Hey mate, can you please tell me more about the following..

With the 26mm master cylinder, is that meant to increase the pressure applied to the brakes?

What is the 26mm measurement referring to?

And what was the size of the stock master cylinder? And why didn't you go with a stock master instead?

Just curious as I'm sure my master cylinder will fail eventually.



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Because of the 6 piston calipers the stock 23.8mm master cylinder would have an excessive pedal travel to get the same braking force. The bigger master cylinder doesn’t exactly mean, better braking, but better brake pedal feel. So it should be firm but still able to create enough line pressure to work the pistons.

Whereas if you put a large master cylinder on small piston calipers, the pedal would be harder to press to get the same braking force.

I would stick with a stock replacement in 90% of cases. At least until someone finds out a more bolt on alternative. If I can’t get the pedal and braking how I want, I will be going to a booster-less twin master setup.

With your track setup, the tubular subframe and tubular control arms are a good consideration...

I'm just not sure about those rose joints on the control arms, I wonder how long they would last..

How much camber do you have at the moment anyway? 2" surely....


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Eyeball says 1-1.5 negative degrees atm. It’s honestly stuff all. Hopefully gain a lot more with ‘natural’ camber from lowering it.

Rose joints seem to last a while and to be fair, I’m probably kidding myself how often I’ll be driving this on the street these days. Not a daily anymore


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[dylan8]

The control arms are actually level at the moment. So anything lower will be angled, how I had the ride height before meant the control arms were quite angled. But never felt it to be a hinderance with bump steer etc. I’ll be lowering the front approximately 25mm, don’t think I’ll get much lower than that in the rear.

Silver project tops. Also have to dremel out the factory strut top to be able to tighten the nuts with them set to max neg.


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Interesting. Looks 20mm or so more wheel gap than I had with 215/45/17s when I just had it aligned and the arms were dead level
Maybe just the photo?

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[HaydEn]

Interesting. Looks 20mm or so more wheel gap than I had with 215/45/17s when I just had it aligned and the arms were dead level
Maybe just the photo?

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Yeah maybe. 235/40, with ~40mm tyre to arch gap.


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[Sirocco20348]

The control arms are actually level at the moment. So anything lower will be angled, how I had the ride height before meant the control arms were quite angled. But never felt it to be a hinderance with bump steer etc. I’ll be lowering the front approximately 25mm, don’t think I’ll get much lower than that in the rear.

Silver project tops. Also have to dremel out the factory strut top to be able to tighten the nuts with them set to max neg.


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The tubular subframe will allow you to lower that extra inch you plan and maintain level arms. You probably know this stuff already.

But they are not cheap... Over $1000

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[HaydEn]

The tubular subframe will allow you to lower that extra inch you plan and maintain level arms. You probably know this stuff already.

But they are not cheap... Over $1000

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Yeah big coin.

The main lowering issue is that the rear springs only have ‘spacers/plates’ so not an infinitely adjustable height, only 4 heights. Currently at the highest setting, lowest is 18mm lower at the spring, which might be 30-40mm at the arch. Purely an appearance issue at this stage.


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[HaydEn]

So I pulled out the height adjustment plates or whatever you want to call them, lowered the rear by the expected ~30mm, annoyingly lost all preload. That’s why I put them all in now from memory.

Anywho, lowered the front to match and tightened up the strut tops with no weight on them.


Would be nice a touch lower, but I’ll be happy with this.

Also, picture of the engine bay now. Wrapped the loom in cloth tape, and a few touches of heat management for ultimate race car points.




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[sambb]

very very nice mate. That looks unreal.

Yeah my rears are a pain too. I have 8kg/mm rears that barelt deflect at all with weight on them. But at full droop they are nearly falling out without helper springs. You could call someone like MCA and see if they can do you some helpers. Mine sit at 8-10mm when crushed flat but keep the springs captive when its jacked up.

[HaydEn]

very very nice mate. That looks unreal.

Yeah my rears are a pain too. I have 8kg/mm rears that barelt deflect at all with weight on them. But at full droop they are nearly falling out without helper springs. You could call someone like MCA and see if they can do you some helpers. Mine sit at 8-10mm when crushed flat but keep the springs captive when its jacked up.

Because of the divorced set up there’s no room to have a helper spring. It’s really just down to the **** coilovers. As the shock is as short as it will go without compressing it.


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[dylan8]

Could you get shorter shocks so an Max length it'll hold the spring in.
Usually how the Fwd ones go with after market kits

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[HaydEn]

Could you get shorter shocks so an Max length it'll hold the spring in.
Usually how the Fwd ones go with after market kits

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You’d think ‘decent’ coilovers would have that already sorted. The c spanners provided don’t even fit the rear shock collars lol.

BC’s are the worst coilovers ever made.


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[dylan8]

You’d think ‘decent’ coilovers would have that already sorted. The c spanners provided don’t even fit the rear shock collars lol.

BC’s are the worst coilovers ever made.


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I'll swap you some stock suspension. They won't fall out.

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[HaydEn]

I'll swap you some stock suspension. They won't fall out.

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Not worried about them falling out. Until they fall out


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