Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

[Lucas_R]

Been told to check for knock detection.

But I have no ideas personally, tried to make it happen 4 times on the drive home and it did it once going into 5th..

Shame it didnt run quite right after making the trip down to Syd mate. Give me a holler next time you go (if you dont mind me tagging along) as i wouldnt mind running my car down the strip.

I was going to head down a few weeks ago with a friend who has a Mk7 R but was flat out at work and couldnt take the time off.

[HaydEn]

Shame it didnt run quite right after making the trip down to Syd mate. Give me a holler next time you go (if you dont mind me tagging along) as i wouldnt mind running my car down the strip.

I was going to head down a few weeks ago with a friend who has a Mk7 R but was flat out at work and couldnt take the time off.

Ohwell! Was able to drive it home and to work today. Better then having to fix it in the carpark or tow it home!

Yeah that’d be awesome, still have the GTI?
I’ll be heading back down in the next little while.


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[Lucas_R]

True.

Na the GTI is long gone. The GTI would have burnt its clutch (stock clutch) on the sticky 1/4 mile track. It held ok on the road but i knew it would be a different story on a track.

I've got a Lexus IS-F now so i want to see what the N/A 5.0L V8 can do. I've done a few things to it so it should be ok for mid/high 12's.

Ohwell! Was able to drive it home and to work today. Better then having to fix it in the carpark or tow it home!

Yeah that’d be awesome, still have the GTI?
I’ll be heading back down in the next little while.

[HaydEn]

True.

Na the GTI is long gone. The GTI would have burnt its clutch (stock clutch) on the sticky 1/4 mile track. It held ok on the road but i knew it would be a different story on a track.

I've got a Lexus IS-F now so i want to see what the N/A 5.0L V8 can do. I've done a few things to it so it should be ok for mid/high 12's.

Yes! They are awesome. Such a good sounding motor and good looking car too.


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[HaydEn]

Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

With the VW Nationals Supersprint next weekend I finally got around to fitting some hopefully preventative explosion pieces.

First off was fitting a MK5 baffled sump and oil pump. Oil pump due to shallower MK5 sump. With the baffled sump I also gained the level and temp sensor, which with some wiring I can view on the colourMFA display



Next was changing out the oem 120a alternator for a 90a unit from a 4 cylinder MK4 and lightweight pulley I had from my old 12v VR6.


I swapped alternators in an effort to get some weight off the nose of this thing, switching alternators saved 1.9KG

I also got a smaller battery and moved it into the back of the car. The battery and new bracket was only slightly lighter, around 6KG, but I mostly did this for the same reason as above, to get some weight off the nose. The battery and mount that was on the car weighed in at 16kg, new setup is roughly 9-10kg including the additional wiring required. Totalling 18KG off the front, should have a noticeable improvement!



With the front end off to change alternators, I took the opportunity to change intake manifolds, finally getting rid of the badly black painted one. This snowballed a bit and with the manifold off I finally got rid of the mess of hoses hidden on top of the hot exhaust manifolds.



The above was all able to be removed by simply moving the coolant ball to the passenger side of the bay. 2 new hoses, extend the 2 coolant level sensor wires and a bracket was all that was needed.

I also used a MK3 1.8L hose to remove the ‘T’ piece that had been blocked off for the aux radiator. Aim of all of this was just to eliminate all of the potential leak joints.



After the last track day, I knew that the cooling of the brakes was a serious issue that needed to be addressed. I started with some plans to modify the dust shields to fit a duct, but I eventually opted for their complete removal. In addition I fitted some brake ducts drawing air from the big R32 bumper vents.

I made some ‘L’ brackets and nutserted the chassis legs to be able to bolt them securely in place, especially with how close everything in is, to crank pulley, driveshafts, end links and tyres.



Now I’m still not 100% happy with how they are attached to the control arms, but it was the most sensible option I could think of. After a road test there are no issues with them moving or rubbing so for now they’ll stay as is.




Sitting 50mm back from either brake disc a quick test with the leaf blower showed good flow into the centre of the disc.

Last piece of the puzzle for now was to add some bracing. Scored from a TT, I installed some more nutserts into the subframe and fitted the lower subframe brace





Bit of a brain fart on my end, the upper strut brace wouldn’t fit without notching it, or removing the bonnet strut bracket. I chose to cut the brace because 1. I got them for free, 2. The bolt holes look to be in the same spot as the 8L S3 so if I ever end up with a strut brace from one it’ll just bolt back in.



I also tided up some of the wiring and wrapped some up in some left over braided that I had, no more exposed wires! Sort of.






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[dylan8]

Keen to see if the brake ducts work. 18kg is a lot considering you haven't really taken any items or features away.

[Lucas_R]

Nice progress on the 32 Hayden. Good luck this weekend. Stay safe.

[HaydEn]

Keen to see if the brake ducts work. 18kg is a lot considering you haven't really taken any items or features away.

Road test shows not as effective as I thought, but slow speed and heavy braking isn’t the best test scenario.

Yeah exactly right. I’ve maintained the factory fuse box that sits on top of the battery as well, just used a stud terminal to join the battery in the back to it and the starter.

With all the accessories on, wipers, lights, radio and fans voltage drop was minimal.


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[HaydEn]

Nice progress on the 32 Hayden. Good luck this weekend. Stay safe.

Thanks man. Hopefully both back in one piece!


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[HaydEn]

ABSOLUTE STITCH UP


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[HaydEn]

Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

Well the nationals supersprint didn’t go so well.

Started the week off by snapping the inner CV joint cage on my way to work in my daily.

So was forced to drive R32 and finish up bits and pieces in between. Then comes Friday driving down to Accomodation. Sitting in traffic, clutch pedal straight to floor, happened another 3 times! Typically, after I changed the o rings. It has been fine for 8 months. Day before track day plays up!

First session, 6 laps in, just getting a feel for the car with the changes since the previous year as well as the temperamental clutch pedal, disaster strikes going through a pretty quick sweeper.

Car got real lose and all over the track. Pulled off and seen smoke coming from the back wheel, tyre looked flat at the time (must have parked on a rock in the grass or something) so not ideal, but not the worst outcome.

Start driving off to the pits and there’s some loud grinding noises and no brakes. Well that’s not a tyre issue, get back to the pits, notice the caliper has taken a fair hit from the rotor.

Started pulling bits off to investigate and all things started pointing to loosened driveshaft bolt or collapsed bearing.




Pulled out the driveshaft bolt and found this dodgy spacer


Spot the issue


Something even more unbelievable, sheared/snapped the snout off the hub.



Turns out, dodgy as previous owner. Cheaped out and replaced the hub with a non R32 item. Which relies on the the driveshaft spline supporting the inside of the snout. Because he didn’t swap the outer cv to the nut style the hub was unsupported and eventually sheared under load.

Thanks to Trickysimon being a good bloke for once in his life, swapped his and Zalemate’s car’s around on the trailers and towed the R32 back up to Newcastle that night. Back down for a quick sleep and off to the show on Sunday!

Silver linings of all of this.

Went 1.2 seconds faster than last year during warm up.
Didn’t happen under a big brake zone and/or lose a wheel and wreck the car more.
Didn’t happen on the street and kill someone.



Couple of dead VW’s


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[HaydEn]

Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

Time to rebuild.

Starting with hubs and bearings, couldn’t find any in Australia so had to go through ECS, because of the ridiculous shipping, might as well load up and fix a few things that have been causing grief or I have been to lazy to do because it still worked ok.

So ordered 2 new hubs and bearings, solid front subframe bushings, solid power steering rack bushing and ECS alloy bleeder block for the clutch line.



Convinced myself I might as well change the old clutch line and then the whole system is new parts, so ordered a braided clutch line from 034. So at this point most of the car would have been sorted, but if the front end was going to be solid mounted, the rear should be too



And then because I had gone this far I might aswell get some more camber and caster out of the limited front end, with some silver project camber tops.

Following that, I had started to have a long pedal travel and bigger is always better??

So grabbed some 17z calipers, braided lines, EBC blue stuff pads and because they were on sale DBA two piece rotors




And then some H&R sway bars..



And to cap it off. A half cage + door bars





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[HaydEn]

Hayden and Cliffos Mk4 R32 build

In the last 2 months with collecting bits and pieces I’ve slowly put them onto the car. Starting with the easiest being brakes



This started obviously issues! Doesn’t clear wheels with out a 30mm spacer, which makes them stick out far to much. Grabbed a set of wheels from Trickysimon at Nationals that we’re going to be daily wheels

They clear a little bit better. But hit the inner barrel, so I will need to do some ‘machine’ work if ever intend to use them.
I have only just got around to rectifying the wheel issue in the last week or two by ordering some Team Dynamic wheels from the UK, so that will be a 10-12 week wait.

Continuing on.

Front subframe bushings, pressed in with the Milwaukee. Tyrolsport items should be good with how tight they are.


Tyrolsport solid steering rack bushing, these I assume are meant for RHD so the bracket for the power steering lines doesn’t work and needs to be cut off.


H&R front sway bar in


Not sure if I need to spend the cash on adjustable end links or not at this stage as one half of the joints are maxed out. But I intend to buy new coilovers so will probably just wait it out.

Silver project camber tops in.



Also decided to make the switch to studs


Bought some delrin shifter bushings as the forward/aft bushing had completely separated which was causing the grinding into 3rd (I knew it wasn’t my driving!)


Onto the rear bushings, had to make up a tool to get the stock bushings out


Powered by the Milwaukee, made short work of them. Except for deforming the alloy pipe I used


And new solid ones Milwaukee’d in


Put the H&R sway bar in at this time as well but didn’t get a snap of it.

Plan all along was to get a header and 3” exhaust to get rid of the crap stock stuff, now is a better time than ever!

Bit of a mission to cut out with an alloy cutting disc but got there in the end

Header sneak peak.


Only thing left to do is exhaust and brake master cylinder upgrade. Because of the 6 pots I want something more than the Factory sized item.

This means modifying the booster casing!




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[sambb]

Far out, some serious hardware updates there mate! Are you doing those extractors yourself? they look unreal.

[HaydEn]

Far out, some serious hardware updates there mate! Are you doing those extractors yourself? they look unreal.

Yeah gone a bit over what was required, but should last the live of the car now and really transform it.

My mate is doing them for me.


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