Mk3 R32 v2

[GeorgeMK1]

In for fwd vr6 burnouts

[HaydEn]

Tinkering tinkering.



Mounted catch can.
Ran the 3/4" lines for it.
Used left over braided sleeve as ignition lead holder.
Had my mate weld up a 3" intake pipe.
Getting towards completion.

Just need to paint heat shield for the exhaust manifolds.
Plumb in the Nitrous kit.
Figure out where I'm putting the battery.
And decide on what fuel (E85 or 9 and if I use freshly cleaned ID1000 injectors or stock 200k old injectors..

[dylan8]

Looks the business dude. Keen for a hot lap in it

[HaydEn]

Mk3 R32 v2

Couple little more tidy up's.

I am starting to think I just create work to avoid having it run, because I know in reality it will break alot.

Anyway.

Drilled and tapped the intake pipe for the Nitrous Fogger.



I wasn't happy with how some of the coolant hoses sat, one of them actually interfered with the shifter mechanism so I got one of the Relocation Reservoirs.



This one by passes the heater core, which will likely leak after not experiencing hot water for so long.

I was shocked at the amount of hoses that can be removed when installing these things!



I was able to use some of the hose kit to plumb it up, need a U shaped bend off the thermostat housing to go under the two main hoses, as well as a 90 for the fitting off the top of the head.

Chopped off a excess bit of hose.
And plugged with a shiny blue fitting, left over from the old fuel rail.


I also moved a bunch of the grounds and loom from the front side of the coilpack, to underneath the new reservoir.

I 'think' I've decided to mount the battery under neath the passenger seat. So will buy some fat cable to relocate that this weekend.

Ideally I wanted to keep it over the front wheels to help with traction. But between the catch can and the giant air filter I am running. There is just not enough space left behind the bumper and I feel slightly uncomfortable having it sit under the fuel lines on the driver's side of the engine bay.

[feenix74]

She is getting there.

[GeorgeMK1]

I am starting to think I just create work to avoid having it run, because I know in reality it will break alot.

Story of my life.. keep at it dude

[HaydEn]

Mk3 R32 v2

Last few touch up’s before it goes to the tuner’s on the 17th

Rattle can ‘ceramic’ coated the heat shield

Finished up the bottle heater wiring and the nitrous button. Cable tied so I can remove it when not in use

I used the oem A/C button as the master switch for the system.


Made a new positive cable to remove battery under the passenger seat. Yet to make a mount but will be ok for now.

Opted for the fresh ID1000’s, should be better than dirty oem one’s even just on 98.


And almost finally, A finished engine bay!

All it needs is a clean and a purge solenoid hidden behind the strut tower when it arrives this week hopefully.



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[feenix74]

Good progress. You also need to get a new brake fluid reservoir lid (the rubber bit on top has perished just like on my Vento)

Any reason you went with the airbag-less steering wheel? It just looks a bit strange to me because I am so use to the airbag steering wheel.

[HaydEn]

Good progress. You also need to get a new brake fluid reservoir lid (the rubber bit on top has perished just like on my Vento)

Any reason you went with the airbag-less steering wheel? It just looks a bit strange to me because I am so use to the airbag steering wheel.

The pink bit sticking out the top?

It’s a float so you can see how much fluid you have.

Lighter and oem.


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[feenix74]

Good point about the weight savings sans airbag (I did not even twig to that).

Yep, the purple stick that sticks out the top of the brake fluid reservoir. There is a clear rubbery plastic cap that originally sits over the top of that and keeps the float from popping all way up like that. See photo below



My CL still has it but the Vento's one has perished/is missing (it is on the to fix list). I do not think it interferes with the operation of the float or brake fluid level sensor for the rubbery plastic cap to be missing/perished but I assume that we are letting additional air/moisture access to the brake fluid.

[HaydEn]

Interesting, out of the 6 mk3’s I’ve had none of them have had a cap. Think one didn’t have a float at all and just a solid lid


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[feenix74]

Apologies, I am just one of those weird guys with CDO (its like OCD but in alphabetical order ).

I assume some of the earlier or overseas imported Mk3s may not have had the brake fluid level sensor hence your experience with a cap without the float and sensor attachment. The Mk3s are now 20+ years old, so I think my CL is probably the abnormal one with an intact rubbery plastic top to the cap.

I actually have to find an OEM Eurovox Mk3 radio because the Vento has an aftermarket CD playing one with a remote control and all sorts of fancy lights on it (but looks out of place compared to the simple OEM radio/cassette player). The Vento just looks wrong without the OEM radio. My father-in-law agrees with me and is finding the fancy CD player to be difficult to operate on the go because the buttons/text are much smaller, making it difficult to operate.

[HaydEn]

My purge kit finally arrived which signifies the last purchase to arrive/be installed.

So quickly installed that this arvo and finished up the activation switch wiring.

I have now successfully made a F&F MK3....



Coloured buttons everywhere!

Purge solenoid mounted off the nitrous solenoid.

I’m using the washer jet as the purge exit for that OEM touch.



So now if I’m not mistaken it is, cable tie front bumper on, lower rear of car a bit more, buy a radiator cap and fill it up with water.

I do still have to make the fuel feed hose for the fuel solenoid, but I will do that one arvo this week.




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[feenix74]

Nice OEM radio head unit blanking plate.

Don't forget to strip out the passenger airbag to save a bit more weight

[HaydEn]

Nice OEM radio head unit blanking plate.

Don't forget to strip out the passenger airbag to save a bit more weight

Thanks man! They are a cool piece.

Already gone, just the dash cover in place.


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