Let the tinkering get serious!!....

[Greg Roles]

Awesome, thanks for the help lads!

It's a 22mm, as I've been playing with 21 and 22mm spanners and imperial around the 22mm mark.

Noice tools there, and good idea on the spray stuff guys, I'll use this as an excuse to go tool shopping!

[Transporter]

Just a tip.
If you spray something on the healthy sensor, you should cover with the rag the part of the sensor right up to the end of the hexagon part, other vise there is a chance to contaminate sensor (metal jacket of the sensor is open to air). You may already know that but it doesn't hurt to remind it (can be useful to some).

[Idle]

I like that offset socket- Never seen one of those before.

Had about 6 of them in AF once — left them (and the rest of my toolbox) behind in a mate's uninsured workshop the Saturday night it got burgled.

Wasn't happy...

[Greg Roles]

OK have a set of Crows feet now ( 11-24 ) yeehah, quite a nice set for $50 from the UK. Not Snap-on quality, but certainly garage tinker level. Thanks Miro! I'll try and get the O2 sensor out a bit later today.



On a side note, I think the tiny Deka / Polar battery has finally died. I might have killed it last night playing the stereo loud for some time whilst trying to find rattles ( in a closed garage! ), but it's handled this well in the past and just kept on giving. Got up this morn and the car would hardly crank, so it might be time to move back to a normal sized battery. I've been having problems the last several weeks with slightly slower cranking, but the car has been throwing up engine speed sensor errors, so I thought it was just that. In the back of my mind I couldn't shake the thought the tiny battery could be the culprit, so I haven't taken it back for a warranty check. Seems this may now be the case.

So the small Deka, if it has died, only lasted 10 months. Still, it's been amazing, and has powered a high compression diesel with a monster stereo all through winter without a hitch. I think I'll go for another gel style battery, but a proper sized one along the lines of an Oddessy or Optima style, still trying to keep it relatively small. I'll have to relocate the methanol tank, but that's probably a good thing, as it gets a bit hot in the engine bay, meth likes to evaporate, and meth ain't exactly cheap!

I have been looking into what the heck to do with the DPF, I think a delete will liberate a lot of power, response and economy given the restriction, but so too I just can't get my head around becoming another smokey diesel on the roads, I do so hate following them. I did see a current BMW 320d with a similar 125kw/350nm 2.0 diesel engine blow a good puff of smoke recently, so you have to wonder just how open their DPF is. I've been researching and talking to Mann and Hummel direct about their new aluminium titanate filters, that seem to allow better flow and replacability. I'm beginning to think a large area, repackable titanate filter, in place of the stock DPF may be the go, it regens the same as SiC ( the stock DPF ) but the pore size, channel ending and flowrates can all be customised. Brand new technology, but a 3"dump with a large titanate filter may let me get the power goals I'm after, along with a legal and soot free exhaust. Stay tuned!

http://www.new.corning.com/assets/0/...16C175E98C.pdf

On the inlet front, I am just awaiting my bead roller I've ordered from the USA, and need to size up the IC to inlet portion ( on the left in front of Ryans stuffed DPF in the pic ), and I can put it in and hook up the water meth / delete the EGR and flap entirely at the same time. Very close now!!

[Greg Roles]

Those spanners did the trick, the angle block is now in, and I've put a plate over the EGR inlet, so I'm EGR free.

I'll let you know what happens!

[Greg Roles]

So far so good, no error codes, and car drives as per normal. Can't say it feels any quicker, but now I know there's no more crud entering my inlet. I'm being careful not to get up it too much as the temps could now theoretically skyrocket, and I don't have a pre turbo EGT in as yet, but it's on the cards if the EGR block remains successful. I plan to take the whole thing out, and plug the manifold back up. Should be able to get the custom inlet pipes in with the water meth hooked up in the next couple of weekends, so that'll take care of any temp spikes.

Finally getting back to being exciting!

[Greg Roles]

Well sorry Polar ol mate, I've gone back to fatville, the little Deka has finally started to give out on the high comp diesel. Gave it a massive overnight charge and within a day it was back to being a little slow to start, taking a few cranks. Decided to lash out and whilst this battery is virtually as heavy as the stocker at 17kg ( you still breathing Polar? ) it's a lot more compact. Early days but a few error codes like the engine speed sensor didn't crop back up on a test drive tonight ( I have a hunch the Deka was causing some of them but time will tell ), and as you'd expect after a scary $400 spend the car jumps to life in just one crank. I did consider some lighter mid sized options, ( cheaper ones too!! ) but I figure I just can't have the car potentially unreliable, given the demands my car and stereo put on the battery. The Deka is still usable for sure, and has been shelved for future projects.

[Buller_Scott]

hey cog, that's awesome. thanks for the updates and the reading once again.

just one thing- are you saying that you simply blanked off the EGR with some of those block off plates, and it didnt throw any lights on the dash/ throw any codes? because i've been really considering getting under the car to just do it, but the problem with the polo 1.9tdi is that some people are saying that it's a simple block off plate, others are saying that it's only blockable via a tune (99% block), others are saying that a block off plate will work so long as you drill a small hole in the plate so that it just lets enough EG through to keep sensors happy, etc etc.

as for inlet temperatures skyrocketing- why's that? wouldnt the charge air post intercooler be much better than the exhaust air?

cheers and sorry for the newbie Q's,

scotty

[Greg Roles]

You can Vag Com down your EGR in the 1.9, I have the info printed out here somewhere, will have a look and let you know. This is a smart way to do it. You need an angle block, that is a spacer to remove the O2 probe out of the flow, so it doesn't illuminate a error light on your dash. I have a "Wayne Angle block" from VWvortex, but it's huge, and 42DD have the nicest one I've seen to date. My car is still showing errors due to EGR now, but because of the spacer it simply registers the O2 probe as getting insufficient readings. I checked on Vag Com and it also knows the EGR is getting insufficient flow, but neither seem to be affecting the car in a real way, that is power wise, at all. I'm closely monitoring it don't worry! Yep all I did was a completely closed blank off plate.

Temps do indeed skyrocket, for whilst you're right thinking no hot exhaust in the inlet means cooler induction air, the extra exhaust gas limits the amount of O2 available at bang time, thus keeping combustion temps under control. Deleting your EGR without a tune or other ways to limit the EGT temps, such as my water meth is simply asking for a melted turbo the next time you're fair up it. It does indeed happen.

I'm driving real quiet till I get a second EGT reference and my meths hooked up!!

[gldgti]

Temps do indeed skyrocket, for whilst you're right thinking no hot exhaust in the inlet means cooler induction air, the extra exhaust gas limits the amount of O2 available at bang time, thus keeping combustion temps under control. Deleting your EGR without a tune or other ways to limit the EGT temps, such as my water meth is simply asking for a melted turbo the next time you're fair up it. It does indeed happen.

Im confused. High EGT is caused by too much fuelling or late fuelling (overfuelling or retarded timing, or both... like increased injector open time can be like retarded timing). For this to be a result of blocking off the EGR, the only way I can reconcile that in my head is that the ECU thinks the EGR isnt working terribly well (because it reads high O2 in the exhaust) and increases fuelling (like a dpf regen cycle) so that the EGR (which relies on exhaust pressure) is more efficient (and therefore should work better, but wont because its blocked).

does that make any sense???

[Greg Roles]

Remember the fuel has to react with Oxygen to create heat. Less O2, less reaction. Your arguement is true in a ideal environment, but soot is the result of incomplete burning of diesel. Add some exhaust, lower the O2 content per charge, less O2 to go bang, less oxides of Nitrogen produced, but less power too. It is a bit weird, but that's the theory as I've read it, and basically what all the big diesel tuners warn about hobbling EGR and the like.

[Preen59]

Stereo? What are you.. 17?

Cool update dude. I'm following with much anticipation.. Still thinking about water/meth myself..

[POLARBEAR666]

I have now done the Cogblower mod. I bought 2 nascar 3 inch blowers. Man they sure do crank!!!!! here is one side done using a stainless mesh screen with an adaptor mounted onto it which connects to the 4 inch hose going to the Nascar blower which is sitting underneath the chasis rail kinda underneath the passenger headlight under the rail. Has a clear shot sucking from the area of the turbo and dump pipe. I mounted it where the horn is orginally mounted with a bolt onto a fixed screw spot on the chasis. This is perfect for securing the blower. I moved the horn to another screw spot that was unused further forwards.


Just gotta wire up the power to a switch now. Cog have you got any suggestions on temp sensor switch etc?

[Greg Roles]

Yep, Jaycar have a normally open thermistor that shuts at 60 degrees. I've glued it onto the side of the tappet cover up high where it quickly gets hot at idle. That's a crude way to do it though, and the fans will continue to crank on driving off for a while till the thermistor closes again, which in my tests with a hairdryer is a while.

The ultimate is "economy adjustable temperature switch" kit from Jaycar that I have yet to hook up, but it is very adjustable as to where it turns on, and off, and uses rising or falling temps to trigger. Jaycar have all sorts of timers and triggers in their car section kits actually, and they really are pretty easy to put together, the hardest thing is reading the colour codes on resistors.

Nice work Polar, I've had to relocate mine due to the new battery and the need to put the meth tank somewhere else, so you've given me ideas too!!

[Greg Roles]

Well I did have the engine error light reappear for one drive yesterday, but it went away as it has been doing because of the engine speed sensor error. Figured it was just that. Vagged the car last night, and low and behold, no engine speed or DPF sensor errors which had been happening - so I am thinking I was right the Deka dying was causing some errors. Now I have the EGR insufficient flow registering, but it beats me how it knows, the O2 probe is what measures that, and it's been tricked by the wayne angle block.

Still good to know the only engine error is related to me actually blocking the thing up, and the other errors I figured I had to try and get warranty for, were just battery related.

My Autobahn88 bead roller is in the mail, so it's finally intercooling pipe time!