Above Forum Ad

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

EGR should we all be more concerned

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by Transporter View Post
    Yes. Diesel Care & Cure is product code 420.
    If you thinking of getting one, the smaller one ( Inter-Ject LB291/1F (401)) is ok for cleaning jobs and even diagnostics. Second tube on LB291/2F is for measuring fuel injectors flow.
    I have bouth units.
    Always have this one in the van.
    Inter-Ject LB291/1F (401)
    Inter-Ject LB291/1F (401)
    Where did you buy it from and how much was it?
    thanks.
    2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Transporter View Post
      Man Provent works for me on T5 and I'm going to plumb it in the Golf very soon, using copper tubes and straight pieces of silicon hose. There is nothing you can safely use for cleaning due to amount of the sludge there. You would have to shrink yourself and flow in with a brush, a bucket and a mop.
      Are there any photos or links on how to install on the T5. I have the provent but not enough experience with the T5 motor.

      Thanks Peter
      2018 Skoda Superb TDI
      2010 Skoda Superb TDI
      2009 Golf VI 118 TSI
      2006 Multivan TDI SOLD
      sigpic

      Comment


      • Originally posted by HiTorque View Post
        Inter-Ject LB291/1F (401)
        Where did you buy it from and how much was it?
        thanks.
        From Inter-Ject. Check your PM.
        Performance Tunes from $850
        Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

        Comment


        • Originally posted by coastie View Post
          Are there any photos or links on how to install on the T5. I have the provent but not enough experience with the T5 motor.

          Thanks Peter
          You need 1500mm silicon hose (diameter is 23mm internal and 33mm external), drain hose 12mm dia 1m long, 4 clamps, 500mm flat steel 25x3, M6x25mm bolt, 6mmflat washer big dia , a pice of rubber or cork to insulate bracket from the body, 2x M8x40 bolts, 2x M8 nut and washers to bolt the provent to the bracket, plastic ties to tie rubber spacer to the intercooler pipe (see pictures). If you don't have a welder you could use 25mm angle steel instead of flat steel.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	1.Provent bracket.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	1807161

          Click image for larger version

Name:	2.Provent.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	69.2 KB
ID:	1807162

          Click image for larger version

Name:	3.Provent Location.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	70.1 KB
ID:	1807163

          Click image for larger version

Name:	4.Provent fitted to the bracket.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	77.9 KB
ID:	1807164

          Click image for larger version

Name:	5.Hoses conection to engine.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	63.3 KB
ID:	1807165

          1 more picture in next post
          Last edited by Transporter; 07-05-2009, 08:28 PM.
          Performance Tunes from $850
          Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

          Comment


          • Provent installed in T5 128kW 2005

            Click image for larger version

Name:	6.T5 Provent complete.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	79.8 KB
ID:	1807166

            It is important that 12mm drain hose at the bottom of Provent is correctly connected or sealed (if sealed,than you have to drain it from time to time).
            The copper tubing can be use if space is limited. Short pieces of silicon hoses (4) would connect copper tubing to inlet and outlet.
            Hint:Silicon hoses are more suited (withstand higher temperatures) they will also stretch more than the rubber one if you try fit it on bigger diameter tubing.
            23mm inside dia goes nicely on 25 mm ports on the Provent.
            Do not use PVC hoses.
            Last edited by Transporter; 09-05-2009, 09:38 PM.
            Performance Tunes from $850
            Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

            Comment


            • Oh to have that much engine space and access.

              I've been into my Provent install today, and made some changes to improve the function. I'm into the EGR and Flap mechanism now, and while it is still coated somewhat in black oil, it's only a film, so I think the washer bottle of cleaner / metho I had drawing into the inlet has indeed had some effect. Given it's silly to add any sort of fuel to a diesel prior to injection, I'd put a bit of confidence in the idea of a "flush" while running, as discussed earlier in the thread, and only be concerned if you have a DPF.

              The new element in the Provent has made a huge difference, and the output hose looked quite dry. Seems to me that once the element gets totally oil soaked, it's performance drops right off. I'm going to renew the element every 20k, as at 30k when I recently renewed mine it had well and truely soaked through. I started seeing a lot more oil in the inlet system, and it's back to being rather clean again.
              2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

              Comment


              • Originally posted by cogdoc View Post
                Oh to have that much engine space and access.

                I've been into my Provent install today, and made some changes to improve the function. I'm into the EGR and Flap mechanism now, and while it is still coated somewhat in black oil, it's only a film, so I think the washer bottle of cleaner / metho I had drawing into the inlet has indeed had some effect. Given it's silly to add any sort of fuel to a diesel prior to injection, I'd put a bit of confidence in the idea of a "flush" while running, as discussed earlier in the thread, and only be concerned if you have a DPF.

                The new element in the Provent has made a huge difference, and the output hose looked quite dry. Seems to me that once the element gets totally oil soaked, it's performance drops right off. I'm going to renew the element every 20k, as at 30k when I recently renewed mine it had well and truely soaked through. I started seeing a lot more oil in the inlet system, and it's back to being rather clean again.
                Yeah, it was easy to plumb it in T5.
                GolfV TDI without DPF should be no problem too, since there is enough space where the DPF is in 125kW TDI.
                I clean mine every 30,000km by removing whole Provent incl. hoses out and change the inside cartridge, drain any oil out of the Provent and wipe it clean inside, also wash the inlet and outlet hoses with good water based detergent and hot water, let it dry and put everything back, it took me 1 hour yeasterday including pictures taking.
                Performance Tunes from $850
                Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

                Comment


                • If you read the contaminated diesel thread, and see Zydecat was quoted about $5k for a replacement DPF, well you should be VERY concerned about EGR, or more specifically the oil vapour blow by. This will only help eventually clog your ultra expensive DPF, and my Provent became a whole lot more worth the price to me!!
                  2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

                  Comment


                  • I just spoke to my dealer about this.

                    Cleaning out the EGR is NOT part of the scheduled maintenance because they believe that they are designed so that they don't clog up to the point of failure.

                    That said they have had issues with this happening but that was due to the crap quality of local fuel up until about 12 months ago.

                    They include diesel conditioning additves in services, can do that at the servo for a tenner, but they will have it cleaned for 1 hours labour charge upon request.

                    My question on all of this is, is anyone really expecting for their EGR to be squeaky clean it's whole life? They are always gonna have crap in them right? So isn't it just about keeping it under control? And if so how does one determine what an acceptable level is? Black sludge in any part of your motor will look scary...

                    (Go easy Cog D! )

                    Comment


                    • Hey Greg,
                      You should try SpeedTec Diesel from LiquiMoly, diesel burns faster with it and it reduce the particles. I have to install the pyro probe in my van. Where from did you get yours?
                      Performance Tunes from $850
                      Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

                      Comment


                      • Already checked it out at supercheap, but given the crazy $22 price and the fact it's just a bottle of liquid hydrocarbons and a little napthelene like all the others, might as well just throw in a few mothballs. When it drops down in price cause no-one buys it, I'll try it to see if anything is noticable.

                        As the injectors are in the head and thus WAY after the EGR and oil vapour inlet, the heart of this threads problem, adding all the diesel cleaner in the world to the tank won't clean the inlet of oil / sludge. It's why I tried passive injection with that bottle just after the MAF. Check out "Fuel Doctor" though, it "seems" to be one of the better algae specific killing types.

                        A clogged up EGR is no longer my problem. My provent "gas" outlet is being plumbed into the exhaust, after the DPF. Thus I collect the waste oil, any vapour left is burnt post DPF, and my inlet is now virtually oil vapour free ( a small amount will always escape the turbo bearings ).
                        Last edited by Greg Roles; 12-05-2009, 05:34 PM.
                        2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by cogdoc View Post
                          Already checked it out at supercheap, but given the crazy $22 price and the fact it's just a bottle of liquid hydrocarbons and a little napthelene like all the others, might as well just throw in a few mothballs. Better things to add for more poke!

                          As the injectors are in the head and thus WAY after the EGR and oil vapour inlet, the heart of this threads problem, adding all the diesel cleaner in the world to the tank won't clean the inlet of oil / sludge. Check out "Fuel Doctor" though, it "seems" to be one of the better algae specific types.

                          A clogged up EGR is no longer my problem. My provent "gas" outlet is being plumbed into the exhaust, after the DPF. Thus I collect the waste oil, any vapour left is burnt post DPF, and my inlet is virtually oil vapour free ( a small amount will escape the turbo bearings ).
                          Of course it will not clean the EGR it will help with your DPF.
                          Haven't said that less unburned fuel will affect cleanliness of oil and the oil which will get in the EGR will be a clean oil and it will not clog the EGR.

                          I bought that SpeedTec at Super Cheap when they had 20% off, so it was a bit cheaper. I'm not sure if I would drop the mothballs in the tank.
                          Performance Tunes from $850
                          Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Transporter View Post
                            Of course it will not clean the EGR it will help with your DPF.
                            Haven't said that less unburned fuel will affect cleanliness of oil and the oil which will get in the EGR will be a clean oil and it will not clog the EGR.

                            I bought that SpeedTec at Super Cheap when they had 20% off, so it was a bit cheaper. I'm not sure if I would drop the mothballs in the tank.
                            Sorry mate, but VW themselves say ANY oil will form a permanent ash to clog the DPF, eventually. Can't see "clean" oil burning to ash much better. Seems silly to add ash to an already "going to clog from soot" $5k filter!



                            Oil vapour PLUS EGR = sludge. Now I only have Exhaust gas, can't see that forming sludge.
                            Last edited by Greg Roles; 12-05-2009, 06:13 PM.
                            2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by cogdoc View Post
                              Sorry mate, but VW themselves say ANY oil will form a permanent ash to clog the DPF, eventually. Can't see "clean" oil burning to ash much better. Seems silly to add ash to an already "going to clog from soot" $5k filter!



                              Oil vapour PLUS EGR = sludge. Now I only have Exhaust gas, can't see that forming sludge.
                              That's what I'm talking about if you burn fuel better there will be less soot in the exhaust and less soot in EGR gases re-circulated. How ever you always get some oil in the oil vapors in your inlet. I'd rather have clean oil with vapors than the oil loaded with the soot.

                              That’s why I use diesel fuel additive for better more complete burn
                              Installed Mann Provent
                              Change my oil every no more than 7,500km or 6 months

                              Over the time the engine will be less worn out and there will be less blow by gases with less oil vapors than if the oil is changed yearly or every 15,000km or even more.
                              Last edited by Transporter; 12-05-2009, 06:26 PM.
                              Performance Tunes from $850
                              Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

                              Comment


                              • I had a great success with the job I did on a customers T5. He is one happy fella!!
                                Par 6 Golf GTI. Coilovers, BBS CH Wheels, APR'd
                                Caddy van 05/07 (colourcoded) (BRIGHT! orange!) coilovers, Konis 18in. wheels, Oettinger tuned

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X