What did you do to your Polo today?

[kaanage]

Explain packers to me Greg, not sure what you mean by that term??

Sorry Gavin, I should have been clearer - I mean pads that pack out the space between one (or two at most) coil turns to increase the spring rate (by eliminating those lengths from compressing). There may be another term for them.

My thinking is that you could pack a turn or 2 and then adjust the height back down to get a higher spring rate for motorsport use and then remove them for everyday running for a softer ride. Pulling struts out all the time to change springs is too hard

The box......

Thanks - very tempted now.

[h100vw]

The fronts I don't see why you couldn't do that if needed. I agree pulling the struts out would get tiresome. At the back though, it's probably a 10 minute job to swap springs.

Gavin

[sambb]

has anyone out there come across such a thing as a fixed offset strut top that would get you a fixed amount of extra positive castor and some negetive camber, then you play with the subframes underneath to get it all dialled in to the minute? Thinking it would simplify things up top, would be a set and forget and no need to cut strut tops off to access adjustment screws etc - would looks stock,would be reliable and mightn't add height). anyone heard of anything like that that can go in with standard style struts.

[louis19]

Replaced the standard rubber gearbox bushes with the alloy ones and did the sai delete at the same time. Definitely nice to have a little extra room under the bonnet

[rgvlee]

Gav, Pete, keen for feedback on the MCA gear when you have evaluated them.
For coilovers with (combined) rebound/compression adjustability and adjustable strut tops it's hard to go past the price when compared to say KW coilovers.
Are/did you guys cut off the strut domes to get access to the strut top adjusters?
What sort of drop can you get out of them? 40mm? +?

[Gillzy]

Booked her in for a service at Volkstech, stubby antenna ordered, and a quick bath!

[HAR80N]

got my PD160 in the post today i put it in and cut the flap it is so much better well worth the upgrade comes in to boost so much harder now i love it the mid range is awesome i get my turbo back exhaust next week and my forge tip and intercooler pipes. oh and i dont know if i bumped something when i was putting it on but befor the PD160 max boost was 19 psi now it hits 21 psi i also put new hose clamps on the bov maybe its that

[seangti]

got my PD160 in the post today i put it in and cut the flap it is so much better well worth the upgrade comes in to boost so much harder now i love it the mid range is awesome i get my turbo back exhaust next week and my forge tip and intercooler pipes. oh and i dont know if i bumped something when i was putting it on but befor the PD160 max boost was 19 psi now it hits 21 psi i also put new hose clamps on the bov maybe its that

Just make sure the vacuum line between N75 valve and turbo wastegate is still connected or not split. If it looks good, you can disconnect N75 and see what boost you get. If its 7-9psi, she's good, if its more, the vacuum line may be cracked.

Mine boosted to 25psi when the wastegate line wasn't on, damn, it was awesome.

[Blue9N3]

Put on a poor mans PD160. Cut out the flap too. Surprised at the difference it makes. Best $13 + some duct tape I've spent on the POG so far


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[sambb]

Intercooler waterspray (for stock intercooler) finally installed and up and running. I put the last fuse in today to actually run water to the nozzle and got nothing. Was thinking the worst (that it was back sucking the windscreen washer hoses dry and drawing air) but all it needed was a pump/hose/nozzle prime. Just went for some 3rd gear pulls and when I parked it, the core was cool to touch. What that actually means for inlet air temps I'm not sure yet. The nozzle mists really well (hopefully all evaporating against the core) as there was no evidence of water getting out of my guard vents where it might wet the tyre. early days but pretty happy so far!

[Blue9N3]

Sambb, separate bottle and pump or did you do modify the windscreen washer?


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[sambb]

I looked at using the existing washer motor, but due to the way the stalk on the steering column works (it reverses pump direction by switching polarity to the pump and doesn't use relays) it wasn't going to happen. Instead I used a holden VS/VT windscreen washer pump (which is actually made by VDO) drawing from the stock bottle. I removed the stock windcreen washer motor out of the bottle and in its place put a T junction which fit the stock grommet. The stock windscreen washer pump was then replaced atop this tee and does everything it used to - it is just sitting a little higher than it did before but still ultimately draws from the same position inside the bottle. The extra height that the stock washer pump now draws to before sending water out to the front or rear windows hasn't affected its operation. The tee output then runs out via a hose to the VDO pump which is mounted lower than everything to prevent cavitation. It then runs through a spraying systems misting nozzle with an integral check valve in its tip so that air can never get drawn back into the nozzle (thought that might be possible when the stock pump first kicks) and so that it doesn't drip since it is all mounted lower than the washer bottle.
Total cost of the controller, pump and nozzle hardware brought it all in at about $150 for me (but I had a few bits laying around like relays and have access to some other stuff that I needed). Trickiest bit was just sorting where to get switched 12v from, and deciding where/how to make a few of the connections since getting the loom/cables to go where you want them in the confines of the car is a bit of a challenge.

[Blue9N3]

Hmm forgot that the polos washer bottle is mounted quote low. Tried using the windscreen washer bottle on my r32'skyline years ago and it just all dribbled out. I take it that you don't put detergent in your windscreen washer bottle?


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[sambb]

No i'll be using distilled water from work so that I don't scale the intercooler.
I drove the car for the first time today in some decent temperatures (it was 30 degrees ambient here in sydney) and I was able to test the system with the manual override that I wired in. I have a thermocouple mounted inside the fins of the core so that I can monitor core temps. Normally the intercooler in off boost conditions would be somewhere between at ambient or 3-4 degrees above. When I was loping along if I gave the pump a little squirt using the momentary switch, within about 50m the core temp would drop to 3 degrees below ambiant and stay that way for about the next kay so its pretty effective. Equally if I was stuck in traffic and then at the lights I have seen core temps get to nearly 10 degrees above ambient just from heatsoak. So today I'd just give it a tiny squirt before pulling away and again within a short distance the core temp would drop right down to atleast ambient.
But the auto operation blew me away. First up what is really cool is that when you first start the car the controller will give the intercooler a little squirt - not necessary all the time but great if you've just parked up the car and heatsoaked the intercooler, so that its as cool as it can be for when you move off again. What really impressed me was how well it worked when I was giving it a bit. I could be cruising along with the core 3 degrees above ambient give the car a burst through second and third and when I looked down to see what the core temp was doing it was actually on its way down and was able to get 4 degrees below ambient for a while if I then continued cruising along. The controller learns how you are driving too. If you give it a quick blat here and there it will really only squirt while you are in the act of hammering it, but if you are consistently nailing it, it will spray for longer durations to prevent heatsoak that can happen after the boost event is over. Also because it uses fuel injector duty cycle rather than a boost switch as its main input it is a pretty cluey module. For example I go up a long gradual hill that I take easily in 5th and the boost will be sustained anywhere from 0-5psi for a long time. Previously by the time I got to the top of that hill (especially if I then got a light) the intercooler would be cooking - even on that low boost. But twice now I've seen that the controller seems to know whats up based on the injector duty cycle input and has the spray cutting in and out as I go up and my core temperatures now don't move.
The caveat here is that all these findings are based on core temperatures, not actual inlet air temperatures. The system is obviously working well at keeping the core cold, but whether a 20cm by 20cm core even if its at ambient, can drag lots of heat out of the inlet charge in real time, can't really be known until I get it scanned during some 3rd gear pulls.

[GTIVWPOLO]

Removed sound deadening box around supercharger so I can hear the supercharger whine