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I think it's affecting a few people. I'm still waiting on some tools to arrive to sort out some rear brake calipers, they were due a few days ago at the latest
some parts come today and i put in my new fuel pump today it is pretty easy to do. got a front swaybar and rear bushes and bilstein B8 shocks on there way aswell hehehe
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My Beast: 06 Polo GTI~White~Milltec CBE~APR V2 Tune~SuperPro Bushes~WhiteLine FSB~Phenolic Spacer 2nd Beast: 02 Audi S3~Stock
some parts come today and i put in my new fuel pump today it is pretty easy to do. got a front swaybar and rear bushes and bilstein B8 shocks on there way aswell hehehe
yeh its direct replacement and i cant hear it power hasnt changed but the car feels smoother i also put in a 4 bar fuel reg i seem to get lower fuel readings now ill give the link to the one i got i got it 10% off with the CHRISTMAS10 code dont know it its still 10% off ill give you another link to a cheaper fuel pump but i dont know much about it
Why the 4 BAR regulator? There's no point unless the tune is written with it in mind. Any extra fuel that comes out of the injectors will cause a rich condition and the ECU will trim out the extra fuel to bring the AFRs back in line.
i picked one up from the wreckers for free so i put it in just to see if it would run any different the afr seems to have stayed the same i cant see anychange but seems to be making my car run alot smoother and i get lower readings on my dash now for some reason
My Beast: 06 Polo GTI~White~Milltec CBE~APR V2 Tune~SuperPro Bushes~WhiteLine FSB~Phenolic Spacer 2nd Beast: 02 Audi S3~Stock
Took the red car for suspension work the other week and he suggested I swap the front Whiteline swaybar back to the stock one. For a FWD drive, you want a softer front end roll with a firmer rear. If it wasn't a hassle to swap sway bars, and I had the stock one, I'd certainly consider doing that. At the moment, I run the rear firm to account for the front. I have tried different front and rear sway bar settings and it just gets understeer, whichever way I adjust it beyond front soft, rear firm.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
i picked one up from the wreckers for free so i put it in just to see if it would run any different the afr seems to have stayed the same i cant see anychange but seems to be making my car run alot smoother and i get lower readings on my dash now for some reason
The AFR won't change but your fuel trims will have. The ECU has target AFRs in and will alter the injector duration to suit. Look in measuring block 032 to see what its doing now.
By lower readings do you mean l/100. Again due to the lower injector duration, it will be calling lower consumption. My own Polo claims to be doing low 3s most of the time, the injectors I am running are 1.75 times as big as the stock ones.
Took the red car for suspension work the other week and he suggested I swap the front Whiteline swaybar back to the stock one. For a FWD drive, you want a softer front end roll with a firmer rear. If it wasn't a hassle to swap sway bars, and I had the stock one, I'd certainly consider doing that. At the moment, I run the rear firm to account for the front. I have tried different front and rear sway bar settings and it just gets understeer, whichever way I adjust it beyond front soft, rear firm.
Hoyhoy.
Just my thing Sean, but I disagree the softer front end roll, don't forget that the Pog. has 800kg to the front & 400kg @ the rear.
I have a 24mm FSB compared to stock of 20mm & Whiteline of 22mm.
Ya know the times the Little Blue Girl has achieved.
Just my thing Sean, but I disagree the softer front end roll, don't forget that the Pog. has 800kg to the front & 400kg @ the rear.
I have a 24mm FSB compared to stock of 20mm & Whiteline of 22mm.
Ya know the times the Little Blue Girl has achieved.
Yeah, I agree when matched with a very firm rear end to counter some oversteer and twitchy-ness. I guess it also depends on driving style and weight transfer.
The approach taken with your car is what made me curious about stiffening the front end, though it didn't work for me. I also tried softening the rear sway bar to make driving on the edge a little easier, but that lowered lap times too much. Though for street and when not running the wing, the firm rear makes it quite twitchy for spirited driving, so will soften it.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
I think I remembered you running the whiteline toe-in correction kit on your car Sean - is that right? If so it could be that by removing most of the toe in at the back end, you are not able to run the rear end stiff enough to counter the understeer you're getting without then making the rear end twitchy at the limit. Before you soften the front bar which is a pretty committed job I'd maybe try something like that so that you can get more rear roll stiffness into it and offset some of the understeer, but without making it a twitchy and over reactive kind of stiff due to too little rear toe in.
You could also try simply dropping rear ride height to get the COG and roll centre down. Both will introduce more rear end stability and maybe allow you to run slightly stiffer at the rear to try to counteract the front.
Also you could play around with rear compression damping. It depends where you are understeering. If it starts on turn in and you never get the front back you could try more rear compression. Theoretically it loosens the rear of the car on entry to help turn in, will have no effect in steady state/G cornering but can add understeer on exit. The opposite is true for less rear compression damping.
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