Does your APR car surge??

[mozzzy_2000]

Its weird, cos its not like its a hard job anyway. It takes about 2 to 3 hours to do, and you only need a 13mm socket, extentions and ratchet, both phillips and flat tip screw drivers, and a st of multi grips.

Anyway I've been studying all the threads & the hard part just seems to getting the stock TIP off on the turbo and fixing the new TIP on. All because the quaint little turbo resides deep down in the engine bay where its abviously hard to get too.

In the event of not being able to get someone else to do it, I am quietly psyching myself up for the task. lol

[Bubu]

Getting it off was easy for, did it from the top. Getting it on was hard, took me about 40 minutes and the help of my old man to slide it over the turbo.

[Quest]

Anyway I've been studying all the threads & the hard part just seems to getting the stock TIP off on the turbo and fixing the new TIP on. All because the quaint little turbo resides deep down in the engine bay where its abviously hard to get too.

In the event of not being able to get someone else to do it, I am quietly psyching myself up for the task. lol

[Plautos]

Anyway I've been studying all the threads & the hard part just seems to getting the stock TIP off on the turbo and fixing the new TIP on. All because the quaint little turbo resides deep down in the engine bay where its abviously hard to get too.

In the event of not being able to get someone else to do it, I am quietly psyching myself up for the task. lol

The most challenging thing is to remove the allen bolt from the turbo, there you will find the transmission cables in front of the bolt. You will have to push them to the side so you can reach the bolt. Don’t loose the bolt.

The second difficult part is to separate the TIP from the turbo. You will need a small screw driver. Try to fit the tool between the TIP and the turbo, the ear where was the bolt is a good point.

The third challenge…I had to remove the rubber pipe from the TIP… You may need a large pliers or a special one for elastic clamp… When you remove the rubber pipe, you will be able to grab the aluminum TIP and swing it to the fire wall. You will need to do that, because there is a steel water pipe just in the front of the TIP, so strength is not way, you will need technique. Swing it a lot, use one hand to swing and the other to pull the TIP from the turbo.

[Plautos]

I forget to tell.

I solve the problem, my turbo is not “surging” anymore.
I had installed an air restrictor at the rubber pipe connected to the pressurization tube and N75.

The boost climb to 1,4 bar and slowly falls back to 0,8 at 6000rpm. The turbo is safe, the surge is gone and I’m happy!

I could completely block the air to the N75, and the result was the same. My conclusion is: The waste gate is too soft so it can’t hold the turbo back pressure. The turbo can’t be harmed and it won’t produce excessive boost.

Call me crazy!

[h100vw]

Anyway I've been studying all the threads & the hard part just seems to getting the stock TIP off on the turbo and fixing the new TIP on. All because the quaint little turbo resides deep down in the engine bay where its abviously hard to get too.

In the event of not being able to get someone else to do it, I am quietly psyching myself up for the task. lol

PM me, My mate is in Joondalup for 2 weeks. He used to work at the Awesome GTI store in the UK. He has done time, at a VW dealers. He'll do the job for you no probs.

Gavin

[Chipped]

My car also slightly surges, or not so much "surges" bit slightly "dips" in acceleration in 3rd. I do not think it is there all the time tho. Only noticed it first time this morning, have looked for it before but never felt it.
...strange...colder morning thi..have not noticed on warmer days...

[mozzzy_2000]

My car also slightly surges, or not so much "surges" bit slightly "dips" in acceleration in 3rd. I do not think it is there all the time tho. Only noticed it first time this morning, have looked for it before but never felt it.
...strange...colder morning thi..have not noticed on warmer days...

Yeah it feels odd when it occurs ey? Its only happened once for me and likewise I was in 3rd. I should have been in 2nd because the RPMS were way too low and it took quite awhile for the turbo to spool up but it was once it got past that and then it was if the sudden boost that caused the problem. I think someone said that boost in 3rd is at its highest?

Plautos; you believe it to be the stock wastegate? That could make sense. Is anyone aware of an ungraded aftermarket wastegate like the we can get for the diverter valve?

[Blitzen]

1)The most challenging thing is to remove the allen bolt from the turbo, there you will find the transmission cables in front of the bolt. You will have to push them to the side so you can reach the bolt. Don’t loose the bolt.

2)The second difficult part is to separate the TIP from the turbo. You will need a small screw driver. Try to fit the tool between the TIP and the turbo, the ear where was the bolt is a good point.

3)The third challenge…I had to remove the rubber pipe from the TIP… You may need a large pliers or a special one for elastic clamp… When you remove the rubber pipe, you will be able to grab the aluminum TIP and swing it to the fire wall. You will need to do that, because there is a steel water pipe just in the front of the TIP, so strength is not way, you will need technique. Swing it a lot, use one hand to swing and the other to pull the TIP from the turbo.

1)Make sure the car is in Neutral, then remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the Transmission shift cable mounts in place...this allows the shift cables to me moved around, and more room.

2)You could do this, or a twis and pull at the same time. There is a rubber O ring on the inner of the stock TIP whch seals this surface, and need a little bit of help to get it moving.

3)With said water pipes, there is a allen bolt that holds the clam just under the metal coolant line. I think this needs an 8mm Allen Key. Undo this to get a few extra millimeters of movement out of the coolant lines, but be warned, it can be very annoying to locate the hole when you want to put it back together!!
In regards to the Pipe, I used Multi Grips. There isn't alot of room to use them, but they did the trick for me. I got the hose off once I had removed the stock TIP from the turbo.
I hope this helps.

Ryan

[Plautos]

Plautos; you believe it to be the stock wastegate? That could make sense. Is anyone aware of an ungraded aftermarket wastegate like the we can get for the diverter valve?

Yes, I believe the stock waste gate is the problem.

[WICKED GTI SA]

hi guys, im from south africa, i have a 2007 polo gti,decatted exhaust, k&n filter , changed the intake and up the boost. my car did exactly the same. they say the car suffers from heatsoak, and the only way to eliminate the problem is a bigger intercooler to cool the charge. what i did is to increase the octane of the fuel. i use 95 unleaded with a 6 ron octane booster. that worked like a bom. the car is much stronger and the surge is totally gone.
the answer is a bigger intercooler but the car is still under guarantee, so that is no option. hope this helps !!!

[RhysQ]

hi guys, im from south africa, i have a 2007 polo gti,decatted exhaust, k&n filter , changed the intake and up the boost. my car did exactly the same. they say the car suffers from heatsoak, and the only way to eliminate the problem is a bigger intercooler to cool the charge. what i did is to increase the octane of the fuel. i use 95 unleaded with a 6 ron octane booster. that worked like a bom. the car is much stronger and the surge is totally gone.
the answer is a bigger intercooler but the car is still under guarantee, so that is no option. hope this helps !!!

you've modded your car already, why be worried about warranty . any mods can void warranty (i'm guessing this is what you mean by guarantee) if they are the cause of the fault, but a decatted exhaust system, is that not illegal in SA.... it certainly is here!

As for the FMIC (front mount intercooler), it's the same with any other mod... your warranty will still be covered if the mod is not the cause of the fault.

my car has chip, BOV, intake hose, BMC panel filter and is getting warranty work done next week (o2 sensor).

[WICKED GTI SA]

if there is a noticable change to the engine coppartment they will do further invesigation not to do any warranty claim if there is one. but if everything looks standard , no one will worry about it.

the higher octane worked for me, only a suggestion !!!

[VW Convert]

As for the FMIC (front mount intercooler), it's the same with any other mod... your warranty will still be covered if the mod is not the cause of the fault.

my car has chip, BOV, intake hose, BMC panel filter and is getting warranty work done next week (o2 sensor).

That may not necessarily be true in Wicked GTI SA's case. In Australia it is the Trade Practices Act that ensures that our warranties will be honoured in those circumstances not the good hearted nature of the manufacturer. Remember Wicked GTI SA is in South Africa, different countries, different laws, SA car owners may not have the protection of such legislation and it may well be that manufacturers use the wording of their warranty to escape liability. Certainly, prior to the Trade Practices Act being enacted in 1974 companies did engage in such conduct.

Cheers

George

[pologti18t]

say the car suffers from heatsoak, and the only way to eliminate the problem is a bigger intercooler to cool the charge.

The other way is to fit a water spray on the intercooler.

Doesn't matter how big your intercooler once it is heat soaked its f**ked

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0527