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Bit of a bump but worth noting for future readers, ever since I purchased Guy_H's DSG software tune I find that instead of always using the paddles to shift, I now hardly ever do since D (auto) better matches how I'd drive manually anyway. Of course the the car still looks heaps better with the sports steering wheel compared to stock.
+1. Although I love my flappy paddles I use them a whole lot less now that I have the DQ500 DSG software upgraded. I could actually live without them it's that good now. But I do like my flat bottom wheel... so may as well get one with paddles
Tigger73 I have contacted the guys and made a deal with him, will this be a direct swap out with my 2012 Tig 155? Also do I need anything extra to get the flappy paddles working?
Tigger73 I have contacted the guys and made a deal with him, will this be a direct swap out with my 2012 Tig 155? Also do I need anything extra to get the flappy paddles working?
Yes this will be a direct swap. Once you get the steering wheel fitted you'll need to get someone with VCDS to enable the paddles.
I did this mod, added Mk6 MFSW with flappy paddles to a 2008 Tiguan TDI with standard auto ("Tiptronic", not DSG). Note this car is based on Mk5 electronics compared to the newer Tigs discussed here (2010+)
COMMENTS ON MY EXPERIENCE
GLI wheel with red stitch and silver trim AUD500 from Mexico, control module AUD60 from China, landed.
The SW control module had to be replaced to support LIN2.0 which the newer MFSW buttons use.
The 'flappy paddles' work great even on the TipTronic. No coding of the Auto Trans needed - just need to code the new steering wheel module to "Tiptronic paddles present" as described by OP.
1K0-953-549-CH is the correct new steering wheel control module. My old one was BG.
The actual swap is easy, just make sure you have all the tools beforehand!
Hardest part was removing the old steering wheel control module: the clips are fiddly. Study your new module to see where you have to insert two thin metal sticks (like drill bits or allen keys) to undo the clips. Once you know how, it's easy.
Be careful aligning the new control module with the pins as you push it in it's place - you don't want any bent pins!
I didn't disconnect the battery, and nothing blew up in my face. Lucky me.
I activated BAP protocol in my RNS510 so that the left side MFSW buttons control vol/track without having to be in the "Audio" menu on the old red-screen MFD. Of course this turns off the nav and audio menus in the MFD because the old MFD only speaks DDP not BAP.
SUGGESTED TOOLS
You don't want to take the airbag off your only car only to discover you need to drive to the shops to get the correct tool to remove the wheel (ask me how I know)*
12mm XZN/triple square bit ($20 off amazon incl shipping)
Make sure you have the right size drive handle, some 12mm XZN bits are 3/8" drive and some are 1/2" drive
Small TORX bit to remove the SWCM, it's like a T5 or T6 - or you can use a small flathead screwdriver if needed.
A torque wrench is suggested to tighten the bolt up again, $99 at REPCO (50Nm/36ft.lb is the spec I read on the 'net)
ADAPTATION WITH VCDS
Going for a drive didn't clear the ABS and Steer Assist warning lights from my dash, requiring the annoying "Basic Settings" procedure which is described really well on Ross-Tech website. This is due to the control module swap.
You need a nice open space like a shopping centre carpark.
Process took me the good part of an hour, the wheel is really hard to turn without steer assist!!
Need laptop with VCDS cable attached to the OBD port as you drive
Both the ABS brakes module and Steer assist module need the "Basic settings" done.
After doing the procedure on Ross-Tech website, the lights still stayed lit
The final step was to open "Measuring Blocks" to block 4 in the brakes module, which showed a constant "0" for steering angle, and then drive around the carpark slowly for two minutes, then suddenly the steering angle started reading a value between -2' to 2' when straight, and all the lights went out
Result: the wheel feels great and works great.
*NB: I drove the car without the driver side airbag attached, and this resulted in an error in VCDS under airbag module saying "Airbag igniter module - value exceeds limit" - cleared with VCDS after the install and all good. Interesting to know the system does actually monitor the status of the igniter - I assumed it was just an all-or-nothing "FIRE!" signal, as there are only 2 cables attached to the igniter (plus ground I suppose).
I had the standard wheel style with the paddles but replaced it with a flat bottom wheel because I like the look.
Prior to the install, my normal wheel had a slight deviation to the left (alignment required), however, after installing this new wheel it's a lot more noticeable it's quite to the left. I made sure it was straight when I installed it. Is it possible to crook it to the left more than normal when installing it, or do the guides prevent you from installing it anyway but the way it was installed? I know I just installed it, but I didn't bother to check and I don't want to take it all apart again to straighten it up if it's not do-able.
On another note, I have a spare standard style wheel with paddles available if anyone is looking.
I had the standard wheel style with the paddles but replaced it with a flat bottom wheel because I like the look.
Prior to the install, my normal wheel had a slight deviation to the left (alignment required), however, after installing this new wheel it's a lot more noticeable it's quite to the left. I made sure it was straight when I installed it. Is it possible to crook it to the left more than normal when installing it, or do the guides prevent you from installing it anyway but the way it was installed? I know I just installed it, but I didn't bother to check and I don't want to take it all apart again to straighten it up if it's not do-able.
On another note, I have a spare standard style wheel with paddles available if anyone is looking.
Perhaps you put it on the splines offset by one. You'd have to take it off and put it around one notch and see if that doesn't put it the other way. This may also be able to be fixed through a wheel alignment if it's not too far out.
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