If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed, registering will remove the in post advertisements. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
This means you should apply for your renewal now to avoid any disruptions to your membership whilst the renewal process is taking place! NOTE: If you have an auto renewing subscription this will happen automatically.
Also, not sure you need to change to a K&N air filter.. most people I have read recommend leaving the stock filter on instead.. but again, I am no expert.
You should always plan out your build with the end game/goal in mind. That way you avoid spending $ twice
I think sub 4 is a worthy goal.
Doesn’t necessarily mean any more engine changes or any wasted $, looking perhaps trying to shave off a few 0.1s by:
- Lighter rims with good rubber like Michelin Pilot Sport 4 or Continental Contisport Contact 5s/6. Those Suzuka’s with rubber weigh 30kg each!!!! Unsprung weight reduction will help.
- Good TCU tune, some say a good tune like TVS may shave a bit off.
- Remove spare tyre, child seat and rear seats (perhaps this last bit is going a bit far)
But I’ll see how it goes. A good TCU tune is next.....then I’ll vbox it again.
VW Tiguan 162 TSI Highline w/ R-Line & DAP. Mods: OEM IS38 turbo, APR IS38 98 RON ECU tune, TVS Stage 2 + with custom TCU tune, APR Downpipe and resonator delete, APR turbo inlet, VWR turbo muffler delete, APR pendulum mount, APR dog bone insert, APR Open Pod Filter (MQB), RAMAIR intake tube, APR Red Ignition Coils, NGK R7437-9 Spark Plugs, DBA T3 slotted rotors front and T2 slotted rotors rear, ATE ceramic pads front and rear Vbox: 0-100 4.1s
Doesn’t necessarily mean any more engine changes or any wasted $, looking perhaps trying to shave off a few 0.1s by:
- Lighter rims with good rubber like Michelin Pilot Sport 4 or Continental Contisport Contact 5s/6. Those Suzuka’s with rubber weigh 30kg each!!!! Unsprung weight reduction will help.
- Good TCU tune, some say a good tune like TVS may shave a bit off.
- Remove spare tyre, child seat and rear seats (perhaps this last bit is going a bit far)
But I’ll see how it goes. A good TCU tune is next.....then I’ll vbox it again.
Yes I think your biggest win is going to be TCU/DSG tune. There’s torque limiters in there that are likely quite restrictive plus clamp rates/pressures so you’ll get some reasonable gains there.
I still think you’ll go low 4’s until you either run E85 or put a hybrid turbo on for more boost/power. You’ll need an extra ~10kwaw to drop 0.1s but as you get closer to 4’s this may even be a bit more like 15kwaw.
A few guys are, but make sure you get your ECU/EMU (whatever the Euro community calls) flashed to remove the trigger that throws the CEL. My days with JDM siet boxes, you just change the voltage range of the O2 lol or just disable the 2nd O2 feedback.
On another note, anyone have a stock DP from their 162TSI lying around and willing to snap up some photos for me? Or even sell to me cheap (if you're in Sydney)?
I am planning to see if I can get an aftermarket cat and replace the stock cat and run larger pipework to the stock catback. Hopefully this should still promote the same EGTs post cat and the same AFRs to prevent the CEL appearing.
I am not keen on flashing the car, just in the event something happens I don't get warranty.
Relieving the back pressure will naturally increase torque and power.
It’s funny how we all have similar backgrounds i.e. modded cars previously in our 20s, now driving “sporty family cars” and turning them into sleeper modded SUVs.
I forgot to mention that on the IS38 Tig I’m still rocking a child seat in the rear. Are you stage 1/2 guys running anychild seats? it’s extra sleeper cred.
Baby seat in the back and toys hanging from the hand grabs above the window.
If you want to go next level to IS38 then there the DVB2 IS38 which will see well over 300kw at the engine. Price will be north of 3k supply tho but bolt straight in... Hmmmmmmmmm
A few guys are, but make sure you get your ECU/EMU (whatever the Euro community calls) flashed to remove the trigger that throws the CEL. My days with JDM siet boxes, you just change the voltage range of the O2 lol or just disable the 2nd O2 feedback.
On another note, anyone have a stock DP from their 162TSI lying around and willing to snap up some photos for me? Or even sell to me cheap (if you're in Sydney)?
I am planning to see if I can get an aftermarket cat and replace the stock cat and run larger pipework to the stock catback. Hopefully this should still promote the same EGTs post cat and the same AFRs to prevent the CEL appearing.
I am not keen on flashing the car, just in the event something happens I don't get warranty.
Relieving the back pressure will naturally increase torque and power.
I have my stock front pipe sitting in my shed. The stock CAT is directly at the turbo outlet, aftermarket downpipe places the CAT under the rear passenger seats. The second O2 sensor which causes the CEL problem is near the turbo outlet so before the aftermarket downpipe CAT. MK6 GTI had the CAT near the middle of the car.
I had the CEL even with stage 2 tune and multiple attempts to hide it in the code, installed a CTS 02 spacer yesterday and no CEL now (touch wood).
Yes I think your biggest win is going to be TCU/DSG tune. There’s torque limiters in there that are likely quite restrictive plus clamp rates/pressures so you’ll get some reasonable gains there.
I still think you’ll go low 4’s until you either run E85 or put a hybrid turbo on for more boost/power. You’ll need an extra ~10kwaw to drop 0.1s but as you get closer to 4’s this may even be a bit more like 15kwaw.
Plus 4K launch RPM should help too...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeap, focusing on a good TCU tune now, then I will vbox again. Flex fuel is on the cards, if APR releases something also. I’m wrapped with the IS38 performance, going from 6.5s to 4.3s is a phenomenal performance increase. I’m waiting for you to go hybrid is38 to see whether anyone can break into the 3s.
VW Tiguan 162 TSI Highline w/ R-Line & DAP. Mods: OEM IS38 turbo, APR IS38 98 RON ECU tune, TVS Stage 2 + with custom TCU tune, APR Downpipe and resonator delete, APR turbo inlet, VWR turbo muffler delete, APR pendulum mount, APR dog bone insert, APR Open Pod Filter (MQB), RAMAIR intake tube, APR Red Ignition Coils, NGK R7437-9 Spark Plugs, DBA T3 slotted rotors front and T2 slotted rotors rear, ATE ceramic pads front and rear Vbox: 0-100 4.1s
Baby seat in the back and toys hanging from the hand grabs above the window.
If you want to go next level to IS38 then there the DVB2 IS38 which will see well over 300kw at the engine. Price will be north of 3k supply tho but bolt straight in... Hmmmmmmmmm
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34525[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34526[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34527[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]34528[/ATTACH]
I think it would be awesome for someone to do an IS38 hybrid so we can compare the performance against the IS38.....Eventually someone will be brave enough to go into uncharted waters with a BT - either EFR7163, BOSS500 or TTE610.... that would really be nuts...
Ps great work on the kids seats and toys, that is definitely sleeper cred. However I think with the custom plates, dp exhaust rumble and black wheels, you might be signalling that there might be something lurking under the bonnet...
Yeap, focusing on a good TCU tune now, then I will vbox again. Flex fuel is on the cards, if APR releases something also. I’m wrapped with the IS38 performance, going from 6.5s to 4.3s is a phenomenal performance increase. I’m waiting for you to go hybrid is38 to see whether anyone can break into the 3s.
Yes I’m looking for best bang for buck and with the end point in mind I think that hybrid or snail turbo is the way to go.
I’m still a little way from tuning as I’m going to run the car in until first service before doing any performance mods.
Yes I’m looking for best bang for buck and with the end point in mind I think that hybrid or snail turbo is the way to go.
I’m still a little way from tuning as I’m going to run the car in until first service before doing any performance mods.
So someone may beat me to it....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s what I told myself, to wait until the first service.....After coming off a K04 Tig, the 162 didn’t have much mojo....so got it tuned at 1500km with stage 1 and then now at 9500km (9 months ownership) I have the IS38. I am weak for mods.........hope you can last the 12 months.
VW Tiguan 162 TSI Highline w/ R-Line & DAP. Mods: OEM IS38 turbo, APR IS38 98 RON ECU tune, TVS Stage 2 + with custom TCU tune, APR Downpipe and resonator delete, APR turbo inlet, VWR turbo muffler delete, APR pendulum mount, APR dog bone insert, APR Open Pod Filter (MQB), RAMAIR intake tube, APR Red Ignition Coils, NGK R7437-9 Spark Plugs, DBA T3 slotted rotors front and T2 slotted rotors rear, ATE ceramic pads front and rear Vbox: 0-100 4.1s
That’s what I told myself, to wait until the first service.....After coming off a K04 Tig, the 162 didn’t have much mojo....so got it tuned at 1500km with stage 1 and then now at 9500km (9 months ownership) I have the IS38. I am weak for mods.........hope you can last the 12 months.
Before 15,000km you should do an Audi R8 V10+ engine swap...
Comment