Mk7 Golf R Discussion Thread

[bobcrusader]

I had my apr tune installed by harding performance who are the aus agent. They dyno all cars pre tuning and every one of the R' s they have dyno'd have been 221kw. They think detune is smoke and mirrors.

"Were" the Aus agent.

How did they derive the engine output? What the engine makes is different to what is measured at the wheels, with the difference due to drivetrain loss. Drivetrain loss is difficult to measure, but you would normally start with the manufacturers stated output and compare to the measured output at the wheels. At a recent dyno day, a Stock Golf 7 R made 173Kw at the wheels. Assuming 206 at the engine, so looking at about 16% drivetrain loss, which pretty closely matches the "15%" rule. AWDs do have a higher rate of loss, but I believe the dynos test the Golf R in FWD mode only (no loss of traction, so no need to send power to the rear), so 15-16% is expected. 173 to 221 is nearly 22% loss.

[mrmomoz]

DSG to a Manual also differ on the dyno readings.

[danielb_c]

I've given the R a few goes at 0-100kph, which have all been great fun. Then I read that boost is changed per gear. Since 0-100 isn't going to be using much past 3rd, I figured I'd find a safe place to get up a bit further.
I did, and holy frijoles! Just when you think it's going to peter out, 4th kicks in, then 5th... With a VERY noticeable difference in boost.
So I'm wondering, given the unlikelihood of ever going much over 100 on Australian roads, why would the JB1, APR flash, etc, continue with this methodology, rather than focusing the increase in boost in 2nd and 3rd instead? For obvious reasons you wouldn't want to too much in 1st (traction, stress for transmission, greater lag, etc), but I'm assuming many of these reasons shouldn't apply to 2nd and 3rd?

[random101]

Why aren't there more Golf R build threads

[prodigy_]

Wandered into my local dealership today after a service to get an idea of repayments on a 2016 Golf R (DSG) due to the new 2.8% comparison rate and it turned out to be quite manageable (retail pricing as well as I was just doing some ground work).
Have a few questions, as retail is just shy of 64k what are the chances of getting a fully optioned R for less than 60k? If I can save some money anywhere on this it will help make repayments even more manageable. My current finance ends in 2019, if I switch to the R, it will be an extra year on top of that. Difference between repayments a fortnight will be around $200 most likely, depending on how much of a deposit I can put down and whether I opt for a balloon.
Any haggling tips apart from the visiting of multiple dealerships to slowly chip away at the price?
I work for an insurance company that deals directly with Volkswagen so I'm going to look into corporate pricing as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mattlock]

I find the best trick is to go in a day or 2 before the end of the month and be prepared to walk out. They will call you back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bobcrusader]

The end of the month trick only works if the car is sitting there on the showroom floor. You can also compare finance - Esanda or others might still beat 2.8%

[Mattlock]

The end of the month trick only works if the car is sitting there on the showroom floor. You can also compare finance - Esanda or others might still beat 2.8%

Not necessarily, although I could see how they would keenly price in those circumstances. I've had success with a car that hadn't left the factory as well as my R that was sold to me before they could secure the stock from another dealer (because they didn't have what I wanted in stock).

DSG loaded Rs are probably a safe bet for driving a good deal on anyway.

[prodigy_]

I find the best trick is to go in a day or 2 before the end of the month and be prepared to walk out. They will call you back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will definitely do that, have no issues with walking away if the deal is not right.

The end of the month trick only works if the car is sitting there on the showroom floor. You can also compare finance - Esanda or others might still beat 2.8%

Will look into Esanda, thanks for that.

[vvw747]

Corporate/Fleet pricing worked out the cheapest for me after all the haggling.

Difference was about 4k for the lowest quoted RRP price. That's all I will say.

Can't wait to pick up the R. 5 days to go

[prodigy_]

I am going into the dealership on Monday for a test drive and to talk numbers. I'm aiming for a drive away price on a fully loaded Limestone Grey DSG 2016 R at 59k and to get 23k on my trade in 2015 Highline. Fingers crossed all goes smoothly and I place an order. Exciting times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gokartgti]

Sounds about right. Do it. I love my R. Can't go wrong full loaded.

[sergioscirocco]

for those interested in upgrade the display to a 9" screen.

[FlyingLotus]

I am going into the dealership on Monday for a test drive and to talk numbers. I'm aiming for a drive away price on a fully loaded Limestone Grey DSG 2016 R at 59k and to get 23k on my trade in 2015 Highline. Fingers crossed all goes smoothly and I place an order. Exciting times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just FYI, I just put a deposit down on a pure white fully loaded R at exactly that price. I also requested NSW Classic White euro plates. You should be fine at that price. If a dealer doesn't want to do it then you skip to the next one!

[prodigy_]

Just FYI, I just put a deposit down on a pure white fully loaded R at exactly that price. I also requested NSW Classic White euro plates. You should be fine at that price. If a dealer doesn't want to do it then you skip to the next one!

Thanks for the heads up! Yeah if my dealership doesn't come to the table happy to visit other dealers until I get what I'm comfortable with paying. Might see if I can get Euro Plates as well as I have them on my Highline at the moment but they were stupidly personalised with a 015 at the end. Would look silly on a 2016 R... Even though most won't be able to tell, I'd be able to tell though.