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  • #46
    Originally posted by DV52 View Post
    ^^^ hmm.... not sure what you are telling me (have you found the problem?) - but those low voltage readings should not be sufficent to light-up the transistor LED when the native BSM lamp is not illuminated!

    And just for clarity, I had assumed that it was understood that you need to construct 2 x identical new circuits; one for each side of the car!! Please re-read my previous post in which I identify a "left-side transistor circuit" AND a "right-side transistor circuit"

    And, again as I said in my earlier posts, you should use the brown wire from the loom as the earth for both transistor circuits. Don't use a "bolt" or any another earth wire - because depending on how the modules are earthed, using a totally different earth point can generate earth loops from the noisy environment of a car (which can cause problems).

    As for which brown wire to use - look at my wiring diagram. You can see that there is a brown wire on pin #2 which is immediately next-to the pin for the yellow wire on TTVL. Or you can use the brown wire on TTVR pin #2


    Don
    Thx Don. No I haven't found the problem (yet). "not sure what you are telling me"... I was telling you the voltages you asked for betw. the yellow & Collector and yellow & Emitter, and yes, no LEDs light if the native BSM lamp is not illuminated!.

    I certainly intend to make two circuits, i.e. one for left to yellow & right to green.

    Locating the correct brown earth wire is difficult as I can't see where it goes out from the door to the connector. I have a crook neck and back that I'm not game to stir up. There are at least 4 browns in the sill loom so I'll try your needle tip to locate i.e. look for a voltage when I press the ign. button.

    I know about earth-loop hums from my audio gear but didn't consider it in this case.

    Please keep well
    cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

    Comment


    • #47
      Hi Don,
      Thx for all your effort here. I'm a bit embarressed about it. Let's give it a rest as I don't seem to be getting anywhere. Our son is showing up from Melbourne in a couple of months & has some electronics knowledge & has breadboarded the circuit too. He got it working so is going to try to help when (who knows these days) he arrives.
      Meanwhile I will keep losing sleep over it & looking at the manual for thoughts & trying things. I did in fact writhe about looking at the plethora of wires that go in & out of the front door & there's more than one brown. and so awkward for me to manipulate that I spat the dummy.

      I have been documenting much of the experience with a view to posting a how-to-do, in a style that a 7-year-old could follow, as indeed you have done.

      BTW, I asked the service department what the mystery blue wire around the yellow is & was told it is the keyless entry antenna. Why it is associated with the yellow was a red-herring and mystefies me. Another mystery is the manual's reference to "T27 27-pin connector black"where I can't see any such connector. The one I found where I expected it was white and less than 27 pins.
      cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

      Comment


      • #48
        @notagolf: OK - Happy to discuss further (over mobile/FaceTime). PM your mobile if you want

        Don
        Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the wider expertise of other forum members! Thank you.

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally posted by DV52 View Post
          @notagolf: OK - Happy to discuss further (over mobile/FaceTime). PM your mobile if you want

          Don
          Thanks for your kind offer to mobile/FaceTime. I will probably need to do that but I hate to bother people, so meanwhile I will try a few more things on my own, hopefully learning in the process.

          Keep well and try not to worry about being a Victorian
          cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

          Comment


          • #50
            Hi Don. Our son from Melbourne is with me now with a high quality multimeter and his working-breadboard of your circuit and we checked a few things to no avail.

            Today I tried having the yellow wire along the door sill cut and when pushing the ignition button to do the blindspot lamp test, the blind-spot lights and goos out as usual. Therefore, we think that despite the circuit diagram clearly showing the yellow as the target, we must have been fiddling with the wrong wire, or some circuitry or device further along, specific for the lamp controls it but we can't see anything on the diagram.

            Any further thoughts before we contort ourselves to get at a more direct connection?
            cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

            Comment


            • #51
              @notaGolfR: Arrh...... back again - Hi! So, I assume that by "working-breadboard", you mean that the circuit is operating OK. If so, good starting point!!

              I don't have the precise VW wiring diagram for your MY18 mk7.5 - my picture was taken from a RoW MY17 mk7.5 (that's the closest wiring diagram to your car that I have).

              Not sure if you are aware, but VW wiring diagrams can be obtained from https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/sh...ediateLogin.do Not surprisingly, this is a fee for service site, but it's not expensive - you will need to register and you can buy one-hour access to the site for a very modest amount (about 7 Euros - I think). Have your VIN ready when you access the site - it will pull-up all the repair manuals for your car. The wiring diagram is called "Basic equipment" and ALL the repair manuals are .PDF format (which is good)

              So- the best way to use the site is NOT to do any on-line searches. Instead, your objective is to down-load as many .PDF files onto your computer in the one-hour time-frame. Do your searches locally on your PC/Laptop from the downloaded material after the access time has lapsed.

              Don
              Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the wider expertise of other forum members! Thank you.

              Comment


              • #52
                Not sure how to enable it, but there’s also this.

                Click image for larger version

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by DV52 View Post
                  @notaGolfR: Arrh...... back again - Hi! So, I assume that by "working-breadboard", you mean that the circuit is operating OK. If so, good starting point!!

                  I don't have the precise VW wiring diagram for your MY18 mk7.5 - my picture was taken from a RoW MY17 mk7.5 (that's the closest wiring diagram to your car that I have).

                  Not sure if you are aware, but VW wiring diagrams can be obtained from Volkswagen AG erWin Online Not surprisingly, this is a fee for service site, but it's not expensive - you will need to register and you can buy one-hour access to the site for a very modest amount (about 7 Euros - I think). Have your VIN ready when you access the site - it will pull-up all the repair manuals for your car. The wiring diagram is called "Basic equipment" and ALL the repair manuals are .PDF format (which is good)

                  So- the best way to use the site is NOT to do any on-line searches. Instead, your objective is to down-load as many .PDF files onto your computer in the one-hour time-frame. Do your searches locally on your PC/Laptop from the downloaded material after the access time has lapsed.

                  Don
                  Hi DON,
                  I can finally put you out of YOUR misery (. Between our son and I and mainly yourself we have succeeded. I got the latest current flow diagrams and the yellow wire (for left) and green (for right) are still current, but for whatever reason we failed with them. To avoid cricks in the neck we finally went direct to the wires to the oe lamp in the mirror, and using your circuit and values exactly we have it working.
                  I am now documenting what we did and will post after a trial period.
                  A big thanks. We hope you are keeping well and sane.
                  cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by notaGolfR View Post
                    Hi DON,
                    I can finally put you out of YOUR misery (. Between our son and I and mainly yourself we have succeeded. I got the latest current flow diagrams and the yellow wire (for left) and green (for right) are still current, but for whatever reason we failed with them. To avoid cricks in the neck we finally went direct to the wires to the oe lamp in the mirror, and using your circuit and values exactly we have it working.
                    I am now documenting what we did and will post after a trial period.
                    A big thanks. We hope you are keeping well and sane.
                    Well-done and thanks for the kind words!!

                    I admire your tenacity - clearly it paid dividends in the end

                    Look forward to reading your write-up

                    Don

                    PS: I am well - thanks. Not sure about "sanity" - but I have been advised by my shrink that it's a highly over-rated condition !!
                    Last edited by DV52; 20-10-2021, 09:16 AM.
                    Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the wider expertise of other forum members! Thank you.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      OK Don. The system is still working and I would not like to be without it as it keeps me more aware than ever about what is going on in the blindspots.
                      I am almost ready to post the system but I'd like to explain in it why it doesn't work if simply connected to the yellow or green wires. I have just learned " CAN allows messages to travel together on the same wire but it gives priority to more urgent messages ". Is it the case that those wires are pretty much always carrying messages which are sufficient to keep the path thru the transistor open, but direct to the wires to the oe lamp in the mirror is exclusively the message we want?
                      cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        @notaGolfR: hi again.

                        First, I'm delighted to read that your invention works well and more importantly, that it continues to make traveling safer.

                        You are to be congratulated for your perseverance and I'm sure that your desire to share details of your device with others will be greatly appreciated by the forum community (after-all, that's why this forum exists!!)

                        OK, now to your specific question - I like your thinking (about priority messaging on CAN wires). But alas, no - this can't explain the problem with the yellow or green wires. I've included the wiring arrangement for the J1087 module below and I've included its "twin" module J1086 (read my PS to understand the relationship bwteen these modules) - but this time showing the CAN wires. Notice that the CAN twisted-pair wires terminate on different pins on J1087 from the yellow/green wires.

                        As shown below - the CAN wires for J1087 terminate on pin #6 & pin #7 - whereas the yellow and green wires terminate on pin #3 & pin #4. So, CAN messages happen only on pins #6 & #7 - they are not super-imposed on the yellow/green wires. In fact, the only electrical signals on the yellow/green wires should be the voltages that turn ON/OFF the BSM LEDs (according to the wiring diagram).

                        Anyhow, I look forward to reading your DIY guide. Feel free to use any of my contributions - this is ALL public domain stuff, so use it as you want (or, don't use any of it)!!

                        Don

                        PS: to explain the diagram below further- BSM uses a radar on each side of the car (located in the rear quarter panels). J1086 & J1087 are these two radars. In terms of how these modules are networked into the CAN bus, J1086 is the module that communicates directly with rest of the CAN network.

                        However, J1087 acts as a kind of "master module" in the sense that it accepts information from J1086 about what's happening on that side of the car and it also monitors what's happening on its own side of the car. Messages between J1086 and J1087 occur over the CAN wire-pair shown in the picture. Based on the 2 x pieces of information about traffic in the neighboring lanes on either side of the car, J1087 then lights-up the LEDs in the respective mirrors.

                        Last edited by DV52; 04-12-2021, 10:50 AM.
                        Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the wider expertise of other forum members! Thank you.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by DV52 View Post
                          @notaGolfR: hi again.

                          First, I'm delighted to read that your invention works well and more importantly, that it continues to make traveling safer.

                          You are to be congratulated for your perseverance and I'm sure that your desire to share details of your device with others will be greatly appreciated by the forum community (after-all, that's why this forum exists!!)

                          OK, now to your specific question - I like your thinking (about priority messaging on CAN wires). But alas, no - this can't explain the problem with the yellow or green wires. I've included the wiring arrangement for the J1087 module below and I've included its "twin" module J1086 (read my PS to understand the relationship bwteen these modules) - but this time showing the CAN wires. Notice that the CAN twisted-pair wires terminate on different pins on J1087 from the yellow/green wires.

                          As shown below - the CAN wires for J1087 terminate on pin #6 & pin #7 - whereas the yellow and green wires terminate on pin #3 & pin #4. So, CAN messages happen only on pins #6 & #7 - they are not super-imposed on the yellow/green wires. In fact, the only electrical signals on the yellow/green wires should be the voltages that turn ON/OFF the BSM LEDs (according to the wiring diagram).

                          Anyhow, I look forward to reading your DIY guide. Feel free to use any of my contributions - this is ALL public domain stuff, so use it as you want (or, don't use any of it)!!

                          Don

                          PS: to explain the diagram below further- BSM uses a radar on each side of the car (located in the rear quarter panels). J1086 & J1087 are these two radars. In terms of how these modules are networked into the CAN bus, J1086 is the module that communicates directly with rest of the CAN network.

                          However, J1087 acts as a kind of "master module" in the sense that it accepts information from J1086 about what's happening on that side of the car and it also monitors what's happening on its own side of the car. Messages between J1086 and J1087 occur over the CAN wire-pair shown in the picture. Based on the 2 x pieces of information about traffic in the neighboring lanes on either side of the car, J1087 then lights-up the LEDs in the respective mirrors.

                          Terrific answer once again Don, educational not only for me but other readers.
                          cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Hi Don, I hope you are O.K. I'm not sure what is going on with the private messaging system here but for the last few days I am not seeing the messages between us. It could be that because when I try to login to my Hotmail (which is now named "Outlook") a message says:

                            Privacy Error and "You cannot visit Outlook – free personal email and calendar from Microsoft right now because the website uses HSTS. Network errors and attacks are usually temporary, so this page will probably work later."

                            If you have been messaging, let me know here and I'll change my email address with Watercooled.
                            Last edited by notaGolfR; 10-12-2021, 12:55 PM.
                            cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              @notaGolfR

                              Yes - something very odd indeed at your end

                              Here's a copy of my reply PM sent 5/12/21

                              Originally posted by DV52
                              Originally posted by notaGolfR
                              Hi Don,
                              before I post my (actually I regard it as OUR) "invention" would you mind checking the wording? I would hate to post misinformation.

                              Gotta go..... the brilliant Bathurst broadcast beckons.
                              hmmm...... happy to check wording - but I'm not sure I know what you want me to do? What "wording" - were you meant to include an attachment (or a draft document), maybe?

                              Don.
                              Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the wider expertise of other forum members! Thank you.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                I have my Hotmail fixed which was where I was getting notifications that Watercooled PMs were being received.

                                I messaged the moderators a few days ago for advice about why their system doesn't seem to be working but have no response yet so I asked them via the "Forum Rules" forum.

                                Via the PM system I have tried to send you the document three times & they are not in my Sent box, so if no reply in a few days I will just go ahead and post our method as I think it is OK.
                                cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.

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