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118TSi - CAVD to CTHD conversion, wiring harness Q? HELP!

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  • 118TSi - CAVD to CTHD conversion, wiring harness Q? HELP!

    Hi Guys,

    Long story short - Dead 2009 118TSi manual with a CAVD engine. Looking at replacing it with a 2012 CTHD with 9,000km.

    The above depends on what else I need. So I've been told I need to replace the ECU. To replace the ECU I also need to replace the cluster, lock barrels and keys which I'm ok with (ECU, cluster, locks and keys is between 400 to 600 bucks)

    the bigger issue is the wiring harness. A mechanic advised the harness PINS may have different allocations, and even though the connector (60pin) look the same and share the same part number, the PIN allocations are different. This drove me to call up VW Spares to get some part numbers... Below is what I have:

    1. 2009 118TSi (Engine code: CAVD) Manual - Harness part# 03C972619BA (My dead car)
    2. 2012 118TSi (Engine code: CTHD) DSG - Harness part# 03C972619DD (Replacement car)
    3. 2012 118TSi (Engine code: CAVD) Manual - Harness part# 03C972619CL (one I picked off ebay - Note that its a 12/2012 build with a CAVD engine!!!)

    Can anyone confirm if the PIN allocation on the CAVD and CTHD are different? does anyone have a 2012 118tsi with a CTHD engine that I can grab their VIN number to get the harness part #? or is willing to call up VW spares for the part number?

    I am starting to think I'm going to have to BIN the car and take a big loss!

    Thanks heaps.

  • #2
    There's one way to find out.....

    I think it is unlikely that this would have changed. One way to find out is to get access to ETKA which is the parts catalogue for VW. You can subscribe for a minimal fee (small cost compared to the price of the wrong engine). This should give you the pin out of both connectors.

    I'd personally be inclined to put something else in its place if I was going to all the effort.

    Good luck with the project!!!




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    • #3
      What's wrong with the CAVD engine in your car? Pistons? Valve damage?

      Comment


      • #4
        I know it's a 2009 car but there are known issues with that engine. Have you approached VW or Fair Trading about getting some compensation?
        carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
        I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

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        • #5
          Originally posted by highflyer1 View Post
          Hi Guys,

          Long story short - Dead 2009 118TSi manual with a CAVD engine. Looking at replacing it with a 2012 CTHD with 9,000km.

          The above depends on what else I need. So I've been told I need to replace the ECU. To replace the ECU I also need to replace the cluster, lock barrels and keys which I'm ok with (ECU, cluster, locks and keys is between 400 to 600 bucks)

          the bigger issue is the wiring harness. A mechanic advised the harness PINS may have different allocations, and even though the connector (60pin) look the same and share the same part number, the PIN allocations are different. This drove me to call up VW Spares to get some part numbers... Below is what I have:

          1. 2009 118TSi (Engine code: CAVD) Manual - Harness part# 03C972619BA (My dead car)
          2. 2012 118TSi (Engine code: CTHD) DSG - Harness part# 03C972619DD (Replacement car)
          3. 2012 118TSi (Engine code: CAVD) Manual - Harness part# 03C972619CL (one I picked off ebay - Note that its a 12/2012 build with a CAVD engine!!!)

          Can anyone confirm if the PIN allocation on the CAVD and CTHD are different? does anyone have a 2012 118tsi with a CTHD engine that I can grab their VIN number to get the harness part #? or is willing to call up VW spares for the part number?

          I am starting to think I'm going to have to BIN the car and take a big loss!

          Thanks heaps.
          I had compression loss in my 2009 manual 118TSI at 90,000km but had APR tuned it so didn't chase VAG for a replacement. Was also looking at a 2012 replacement engine but found a late 2011 CAVD block (just the engine block and internals) with about 20,000km from a wrecker and had my mechanic drop it in. Cost about $3k all up for parts and labour. Has done another 10,000km all in APR 98 mode and is running great. I also had a high pressure fuel pump from a 2012 model installed.

          Are you sure the central block connections of the CTHD are sufficiently different to the CAVD to require a whole new harness and ECU? If you want another mechanic's opinion, PM me and i'd happily put you in touch with mine. Good guys and have worked through several of these 118TSI rebuilds/replacements.

          Be sure to check the valves for signs of fodder like broken glass in your replacement engine. Mine had broken glass all in it from the wreckers despite having the manifold connections covered on delivery.

          Comment


          • #6
            This thread on CAVE vs CTHE (skoda 1.4 twincharger) concludes that the upgrade was new pistons:

            CTHE/CAVE Engine...Whats the diffrence? - Skoda Fabia II - BRISKODA.net

            If you want another angle on seeing if the ECU from the Beetle Mk II is different from the 2009 Golf get in touch with Guy H from Harding Performance and see if the twincharger APR Stage 1 file for the CAVD and CTHD are the same. I bet he's looked at a fair few CAVD and CTHD engines before.

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            • #7
              From what I understand the ECU and cluster go together, so if you have access to all the parts from a donor car you can swap them over.
              As for lock barrels, just swap out the key blades from your current keys onto the fobs from the donor then you should have the chips that match the ECU/cluster and keys that match your mechanicals.

              Since a 2009 118TSI is worth in the $9 - $15k range it's probably worth fixing if you can get out from it cheap enough, Mk R's bill looks alright really.

              Plan B: Front cut from a GTI and go all out!

              Really though, what went bang in yours? Can you get away with only new pistons and rings?

              If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi All, Sorry for the lack of replies from my end, I wasn't notified of replies, plus... I've been flatout swapping the engine out.

                I can confirm that the engine swap was very straight forward. There are some slight differences with vacuum lines (one which I'm trying to work through ATM). The original (CAVD) ECU seems to work with no issues with the CTHD engine.

                The new engine runs beautifully, revs freely, no vibrations, and incredibly quiet inside. Only issue atm is the lack of clutch (It's in the workshop being fitted). Once that is done, blue slip, rego and back on the road.

                I was fortunate enough to pick up the engine from the wreckers with the supercharger, turbo and wiring harness all hooked up. Made the install a breeze for a non mechanic. Can't say the same for the removal of the original. Being a n00b at it, I dismantled it bit by bit to disconnect the harness....

                Anyways - lessons learnt. enjoyed the experience and can't wait to enjoy the twin charge. beasty little machine.

                Once back on the road it will be an APR tune for performance, but also as a safety net.

                Thanks All.

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's fantastic man! Great news. Sell all those extra parts on ebay and gumtree and get yourself a cold air intake and an APR tune! When you first get the car back after the tune in 98 mode and plant your foot in 2nd and 3rd it blows your mind. The thing just goes bananas from 3500-4500RPM.

                  While you're at it grab yourself a good boost gauge so you can see how your air system is holding. I have one of these:

                  Podi VW MK6 Stepper Motor Boost Gauge Package Silver Bezel (red/white backlight, red needle) - PODI

                  and it really helps you track the health of the chargers and valves. With the stage 1 tune it'll boost up to 24 PSI on a nice cold morning.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mk R View Post
                    While you're at it grab yourself a good boost gauge so you can see how your air system is holding. I have one of these:

                    Podi VW MK6 Stepper Motor Boost Gauge Package Silver Bezel (red/white backlight, red needle) - PODI

                    and it really helps you track the health of the chargers and valves. With the stage 1 tune it'll boost up to 24 PSI on a nice cold morning.
                    Where did you tap the manifold for your gauge? I had one for a while but never got it installed properly. I've still got the AutoPolar FIS+ but don't have it installed currently although I keep thinking of putting it back in.

                    If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by The_Hawk View Post
                      Where did you tap the manifold for your gauge? I had one for a while but never got it installed properly. I've still got the AutoPolar FIS+ but don't have it installed currently although I keep thinking of putting it back in.
                      Hi Hawk,

                      I took one look at that boost piping system and went straight to my mechanic before i made a dogs breakfast out of it. I'd be happy to to post some photos and ask them for you though. I recall even they had issues capturing the + and - boost readings properly.

                      My gauge now shows negative and positive readings on idle and boost respectively. Interestingly on start up when it runs like it has smokers cough for the first 30 seconds the pressure goes to zero before settling into -20.

                      On a side note, had my N75 replaced today after seeing the failure on the boost gauge at the 3500RPM switchover and boy does she boost hard on turbo again!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The Polar FIS never showed a negative number for boost, from what I understand this can be normal and if a limitation of what the systems actually read/measure. I like the idea of a mechanical gauge, had the Podi one for a while but it blocked part of the display which bothered me and it wasn’t hooked up correctly and I had the AutoPolar unit so I sold it on. (I never really looked too closely at getting it installed properly). (I have installed a few pods into GTI/R Golfs which are very very easy to do correctly.

                        I keep meaning to drag out the VCDS cable and check for errors since I haven’t don’t that since first installing the GFB DV+. I’ll have to remember to have a look at the N75 too, although I have no reason to question it at the moment.

                        If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by The_Hawk View Post
                          The Polar FIS never showed a negative number for boost, from what I understand this can be normal and if a limitation of what the systems actually read/measure. I like the idea of a mechanical gauge, had the Podi one for a while but it blocked part of the display which bothered me and it wasn’t hooked up correctly and I had the AutoPolar unit so I sold it on. (I never really looked too closely at getting it installed properly). (I have installed a few pods into GTI/R Golfs which are very very easy to do correctly.

                          I keep meaning to drag out the VCDS cable and check for errors since I haven’t don’t that since first installing the GFB DV+. I’ll have to remember to have a look at the N75 too, although I have no reason to question it at the moment.
                          I have the GFB DV+ installed too and it hasn't thrown up any errors yet, definitely holds some boost between 2nd and 3rd on a quick change.

                          Here's some picture of where on the air system the Podi gauge is hooked up, you can see its line trail off with the inline filter towards the connection into the cabin. Mine is quite noisy now on idle making a mechanical scratching noise as it hovers but I only notice it on start up. I don't mind the way it blocks that part of the dash. IMHO there's really no need to easily see that deep into the redline around 8,000 RPM or keep an eye on the odometer. Might be an issue if you use cruise control a lot. The overlapping gauge circles look kinda cool to me.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Well that's a hell of a lot easier than I was led to believe! That's not buried deep within but right on top!

                            If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.

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                            • #15
                              Yeah, i know! I told them what the forums were saying about the hook up point and they ended up experimenting when it wouldn't work and ended up with this.

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