MK6 Wheel / Rim / Tyre Thread

[nat225]

Hi Brad, thanks for the response. The only identification is the letter 'N' stamped on the hex of the key and on the threaded end of the stud. The stud is on the left. You may be able to make out that the edges of the outer profile of the key are now bevelled.

long time ago i had the same issue. the lock bolts were over-tightened and when i tried to remove them, both the key and the bolts got rounded...

a workshop finally was able to help me removing them using rattle gun, hammer and 2 people.

since then, i have always been mindful of places touching those bolts. when i do it myself, i always follow strict procedures (82-85 ft lbs instead of 88 ft lbs, loosen first when removing and tighten last when re-fitting).

a key and the 4 lock bolts should cost around $60+ fr VW parts

[Frankenstrat]

a key and the 4 lock bolts should cost around $60+ fr VW parts

Nat, thanks for the response, a new set of locking bolts and key won't be much use to me if I can't remove the old ones - unless by some miracle the pattern of the new key is identical to my current key. However, just around the corner from me is a VW Tiguan owned by an acquaintance of mine, I shall ask if I can compare the keys and *IF* they are the same I can purchase a new set and not have to worry about the pattern.

[nat225]

Nat, thanks for the response, a new set of locking bolts and key won't be much use to me if I can't remove the old ones - unless by some miracle the pattern of the new key is identical to my current key. However, just around the corner from me is a VW Tiguan owned by an acquaintance of mine, I shall ask if I can compare the keys and *IF* they are the same I can purchase a new set and not have to worry about the pattern.

a VW dealer service centre should have a set of master keys. it was a dealer service centre that helped me removing the rounded bolts (with a hammer, rattle gun, 2 guys, etc...).

prior to that, i went to jaxquickfit and a breaker bar did nothing but made it more rounded!

[brad]

As Nat said, most VW or Audi dealers own a set of keys as it's easier to use the workshop ones rather than try and find where the owner has put theirs.

They have just the nut on eBay (and the dealer will have them too)

letter N locknut | eBay

I think you'll find your bolts are sad too

[Frankenstrat]

Nat and Brad, I was lying in bed this morning thinking about what had happened to my key, and I think I know the sequence of events;

At 90,000km I rotated the wheels, the wheel lugs were hand-tightened from the last time I rotated them and came off easily.

At approximately 92,000km it went in for its 90k service. I suspect the garage removed (as in 'rattled' off) the wheel lugs to check the brake pad wear, then rattled them back on.

At 95,000km I tried removing the wheel lugs on the back rear passenger side and front driver's side - to no avail.

Now that I know the key is referred to as a "Letter N" it makes searching for one so much easier, thanks for the heads up there Brad.

[EDIT] I'm leaning more towards replacing the anti-theft lock bolts with standard hex-head wheel bolts together with a set of four appropriate covers [/EDIT]

[Brett_J]

Do you have wheels on it that are worth stealing?
The first time I have an issue with my key I'm going back to stock bolts all around, I have insurance for a reason, get new tyres that way too, lol.
No one wants ****ty GTI rims anyway off my car

[Frankenstrat]

Do you have wheels on it that are worth stealing?

No, stock standard alloys that are fitted to Golf VI 118 TSIs & 103 TDIs. My car is kept in a locked garage overnight so the likelihood of them getting nicked is reduced.

I would respectfully suggest you go for the hex head bolts ASAP. And don't forget you'll need a set of plastic covers for the hex head bolts.

[Brett_J]

Noted, thanks

[Frankenstrat]

Does anyone know where I can purchase four M14x1.5 28mm long R12 ball-seat hex-head wheel bolts and plastic caps from? I've tried the usual local WA suspects, but they either ignore my request, or in one instance, completely misunderstood what I want. How difficult can it be?

[nat225]

It should be R13 ball for vw and audi.

[Frankenstrat]

Nat, I thought I'd read another of your posts where you stated the five bolt pattern used R12?

[Brett_J]

VW OEM is R13 AFAIK, unless you are running an aftermarket rim but sold with the car as factory, then it's R12.

[Frankenstrat]

It was Kaanage who posted:

5 bolt VW wheels use M14x1.5 28mm R12 ball (spherical/radius) seat wheel bolts

4 bolt VW wheels use M12x1.5 26mm R12 ball (spherical/radius) seat wheel bolts

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f128/wheel-bolts-82261-post913617.html#post913617

Brett, the rims are bog-standard ones, therefore based on what you and Natt say should be R13. I have a radius gauge at work I can check them with.

[Frankenstrat]

I bought four wheel bolts and four wheel stud covers from John Hughes in WA. Part numbers are;

WHT001812 Wheel Bolt
1K06011739B9 Cover, Wheel Stud

$44.48

Regarding the radius (or taper as JH refers to it) there is only one wheel bolt part number for my 2010 Golf, also don't forget to take a note of your VIN if you visit a dealer.

[Converted]

If you are looking for tyres, I suggest fellow V-dubs checkout tyrebuy.com (esp. those in Perth).
Just switched over from my stock Bridgestone Potenza RE050A (done 52,500kms) to Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2.
Was shopping around the web and calling up tyre shops, the prices ranged from $289-$400 including fitting and balancing.
Got mine from tyrebuy.com for $159 each!!! Excludes $12 delivery to fitment centre, $35 each for fitment and balancing, and $77 for alignment. Still saved over $400+.
I think it is a pretty good deal (some of you may think otherwise).
I was also looking at the Continental ContiSportContact 5.