WA: Back doors 'Boring'

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

might need to stress relieve the next hose install ?
Good info on the fuel pump too.

Yeah think its just old but the new is a braided one so a bit better on that circumstance.

Got around to a lot of work over the weekend. Ended up removing all the wiring from the old head unit install as i wont be going down that route anymore. Boy was there a lot of wires there though.

I purchased a little kit that changes an iPhone into a virtual CD player so you can control the iPhone with the stock head unit. Its pretty good can set it up with 6 playlists if you wish as well.

Finally got around to installing the oil pressure and temperature gauges for a little piece of mind. Installation is fairly straight forward just a lot of faffing about.

Didn't get many good photos though.

Behind view of the stereo cage with gauges. Easy install with the backing plate.


Wiring completed with the cd changer box and a power regulator to run the perfect match LED's for the gauges.


Everything back together and working well. Little annoyed with the LED's as they make a bright spot at the top of the gauge but minor complaint for the matching and the fact you can dim them.



Got the car into the service position for hopefully the last time in a while. Been like this far to often recently.


Nice little gauge cluster going on for oil pressure, temperature, stock pressure and turbo oil feed. This is how i wish it installed.

And this is how it ended up


Also noticed my manifold has cracked which will eventually need to be replaced.


The progress on the actual turbo however is still non existent. I am still waiting on my fuel pump to come. Its been over 8 weeks since i ordered the pump, received the wrong pump at 6 weeks and have been told it will be at least another 2 weeks until the correct one is sourced.

[t_tuffnut]

Like the tail lights. Kind of Mercedes feel to them that suit the car nicely.

[t_tuffnut]

Jesus - just been reading through the build - You have been busy. I have much to learn.

[Lito]

That's a bummer about that manifold, was it brand new? Any idea what caused it? I have had some trouble with under bonnet temps and my turbo hardware failing. I've ended up removing the weather stripping along the back of the bonnet and raising it off the hinges about 8mm, it has seemed to help quite a bit

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Jesus - just been reading through the build - You have been busy. I have much to learn.

Haha Thanks.

That's a bummer about that manifold, was it brand new? Any idea what caused it? I have had some trouble with under bonnet temps and my turbo hardware failing. I've ended up removing the weather stripping along the back of the bonnet and raising it off the hinges about 8mm, it has seemed to help quite a bit

Nah it was second hand not sure how long the previous owner had it for. Not sure maybe just a poor casting or heat stressing they are used quite a bit so wouldn't think its poor design. Hmm that's a good idea get a bit more flow through, Any downside to it?

[Lito]

Haha Thanks.



Nah it was second hand not sure how long the previous owner had it for. Not sure maybe just a poor casting or heat stressing they are used quite a bit so wouldn't think its poor design. Hmm that's a good idea get a bit more flow through, Any downside to it?

No real downside except your bonnet looks a little funny



And the spool is HEAPS louder but I don't consider that a bad thing

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

So busy couple of weeks with some success and some seriously annoying failures.

First the failure. So the temperature gauge as i stated didn't work which i traced down to a faulty temperature sender. So i ordered one from the USA as the only place i could find one. That came in last week so i got the car all back together finally...and it doesn't work either. So either its gauge side, which doesn't make sense as i tested it and it responds fine or something else is very screwy. I wouldn't have a problem with it normally but where the sender is is such a pain in the ass spot that involves draining the coolant.

New and old sender.


The kinda success was installing the R32 cluster. Went easier than i thought with one exception (always one). With Vag-tacho its fairly straight forward all it requires is two soft codes from the old cluster (can get with VCDS) and the SKU from vag-tacho. No drama's there. Swapped the cluster over coded one of the keys and no drama's car starts everything works. Pulled the cluster out again to fit the cover as it had broken and re installed it. Grabbed the spare key and tried to adpat to the cluster, No luck. Looking around i couldn't see the ECU through the diagnostics port or VCDS. I thought i had screwed the ecu or cluster some how. In the end i unplugged the cluster and re-plugged it and bam, adapted fine. Also a strange point is that the IMMO3 cluster of the R32 cannot take k-line speed single, kinda freaked out when it wouldn't accept the soft coding to change it to that of mine but the speedo works fine off the can. Also the various other little issues such as moving the needles and other random fault codes that appear always make it fun. Im planning on doing some EEprom adjustments to get illuminated needles, linear coolant temp and cruise control light fix.

Old Cluster:


New Cluster:


The success was finally getting my damn fuel pump after a Freaken ridiculous 3 month wait. I should have spent the little bit extra getting it from the US, At least I would have got it in a reasonable time but i tried to support the Aus tuners who had it cheaper. Anyway i digress its just annoyed the hell out of me how long its taken to get a working fuel pump for this car.

The install was fairly simple nothing too bad there but still had to have my little issues. Taking the old hose off the old pump proved a bit more difficult than it should have been (see pictures). Other than that and the other stubborn hoses no issues.

Old fuel pump... with modified outlet


New fuel pump.


Fuel pump installed. Noticed the cleaner bottom section that i got when i got the turbo. Didn't want to change the top as the hose installed on it was proving difficult and instead of causing more issues id live with the slightly older plastic.



Also re-purposed an old bracket to make the car semi legal.


Took the car out this morning for a thrash and data logging to send the tune off to the UK who probably thinks I'm dead at the moment.

Also other fun fact, In installing the gauges and CD changer i may have forgotten to connect the fuel flap button up. Nothing funner than running low on petrol getting to a petrol station and realizing that you cant put any in. I'm glad that it wasn't seriously low just kinda.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

So as always happens with my car... fix one thing another thing breaks. Was looking forward to finally having a drive with full power and then bam, Something broke and now it wont go past 0psi for boost. I'm hoping its the waste gate but who knows.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Not much has developed onto the cause of no boost but still under the belief that its the waste-gate. Will find out when i get some free time.

Did some small tweaks to the cluster to improve the functionality. Luckily its all fairly straight forward and well documented but apparently can go wrong if you do something stupid... like many car stuff.

• Cruise Control light. Now it only lights when cruise control is active. Why this wasn't done from factory i dont know
• Linear coolant gauge. Probably the best mod out of this is to turn the coolant temp gauge to a linear one compared to the doctored nature of the actual gauge. See below graph to explain the difference.
• Needles lit all the time. There is multiple options for this all well documented but i feel that needles only is the best one. See pictures below
• Distance from empty, Completely pointless for my car due to the different injector size i will tell me some ridiculous readings but need to look into that further. Besides i was all ready there may as well do it

Here is the difference in readings for the temperature gauge. Blue is the old values where you can see that it gives a buffer zone in the middle area so as not to freak normal users out. The Orange line is the new values that will linearize the graph to show the actual temperature reading.


Here is the difference in illumination of the cluster.
Before:


After:


Does anyone actually read this thread?

[tinto]

I do!
Don't feel qualified enough to comment on most things though

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Soooo... Not good news. Fairly confident the turbo is screwed. No rotation at idle and doesn't spin very freely. Good news i suppose is that because its a ball bearing it hasn't damaged much but still probably going to be costly to fix sigh.... This car freak-en hates me. Will pull it all down to confirm but theirs not a lot of doubt. oh well ill get the gear etc all done at the same time.

[BLN355]

Great build buddy, just spent the past hour and a half reading through it.
As a new owner of a Bora 4mo you've given me ask kinds of stupid ideas haha.

Good luck sorting the turbo out, it'll be a happy day the day you can finally get in and stomp on it without anything breaking.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Great build buddy, just spent the past hour and a half reading through it.
As a new owner of a Bora 4mo you've given me ask kinds of stupid ideas haha.

Good luck sorting the turbo out, it'll be a happy day the day you can finally get in and stomp on it without anything breaking.

Thanks mate, Always good to know that someone is following along, means alot. . Sorry about the time wasted haha. Oh so many stupid ideas to be done. What have you done so far? Good car, definitely some good tweaks to make them just that little bit better. How many km's?

Hmm needed more than luck on this one i'm afraid. Your damn right i will be happy when i can finally give it the thrashing it deserves. Seems there is always some sort of problem to be had. Just waiting for the next one once i finish this sigh.... Oh well persevere i suppose.



So. After last look i decided the turbo had to be pulled. Its going back to america to get rebuilt at precision turbo. Hopefully it wont work out more expensive but for $1600USD for a replacement but I'm hopeful. Precision was hard pressed to get even a ballpark out of but its at least $500 if the bearings are gone. Bit of a shame that no-one over here knows precision. Freaken shipping alone was $200 to send it back. Oh well waiting on them to get back to me now.

Turbo and manifold out.


With the manifold i checked options due to the crack. Rewelding is going to cost $600 due to the difficulty of welding cast iron so thats out of the picture. A new one is $300usd + shipping. So for now due to the cost of the turbo i will be slapping some exhaust putty on and helicoiling the threads as a go between until i can get a new manifold. It wasn't too much of a pain to remove it anyway (not as bad as i would have thought).

Upon removal of the turbo and manifold i heard a rattling in the drain line. To my horror i found these in the drain line (curious if anyone else knows what they are). Was kinda a heart sinking moment as it confirmed what i didn't want to believe. ****.... So sump will have to come off to see how much is sitting in the bottom of it. Hopefully given they are large enough pieces it wont have affected the bearings and the filter would have caught most of the pieces if they managed to get sucked up.



With the turbo out i started pulling it to pieces too see if i could see the cause of the problem. Pulled the oil feed line out just for ****s sake but was a little surprised when i got it out. I couldn't find any hole for the oil to go through. I was loosing it until i saw this. ****.....


Pulled this little bugger out.


Freaken piece of thread tape. At least $1000 piece of thread tape. When people tell you don't use thread tape on sensors i didn't think it was for this reason more of a grounding issue but there it is. Pictured below is the size of the oil feed for a ball bearing turbo so let this be a warning to anyone will ball bearing turbos. Make sure your oil is clean and no crap goes down the line as that is all that needs to get clogged in order to ruin a turbo.


So don't know if I'm happy or sad that it appears its my own fault for the turbo failure. One one side im happy that it wasn't just a random failure that occurred due to bad luck. It occurred still due to bad luck but due to my own workman ship which is also **** house. If it had been a journal bearing it may have stood a better chance but it was seriously unlucky for a piece of thread tape to dislodge and go down the oil feed line. I don't know when the tape dislodged but im fairly impressed with how long the turbo lasted. And i suppose im lucky that its a ball bearing otherwise the turbine and compressor wheels and housing would have been destroyed meaning definitely a new turbo.

.....oh well **** happens i suppose. Still sucks spending $1000 to replace something that shouldn't have broken, specially when i could spend it on improving other stuff haha.

[BLN355]

That has to Pee you off but atleast you've found the problem and can rectify it for when the fresh turbo rocks up.

As for mine, I've debadged it lol. I did have a couple of packages arrive today though

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

My car freaken hates me....

Start with the positive though.

Got the turbo back from precision with a little bit of surprise as it wasn't my turbo... But a brand new turbo! At least one of the people at precision knows what customer service is.


Look no rust!

And some extra goodies!


Given it was brand new i decided i'd get it ceramic coated along with the new manifold (old manifold was cracked and had stripped threads. Tried to weld it but it didn't take at all). Ceramic coating inside and out, not sure if its worth it but hey it should at least stop it rusting and provide better underhood temps.
Look at the purdy new blades




All back and assembled

And back in its rightful spot.


Also had another box of goodies come in from ECS.


Unfortunatley the fog lights broke in transit but another set is coming thanks to ecs.

Main reason for that was needing a haldex gasket as i sent the haldex controller of to get flashed by United Motorsports. I can't say much about it at the moment but it feels amazing. I tell you what changing that thing is a bit of a pain in the ass

Did someother little touch ups whilst waiting for the turbo. I think the cover and inter cooler came out well.
Before (paint stripped however)


During:


After:



And engine bay after. Bonus points to anyone who can spot something different.


Also ended up buying a nutsert tool which helped to neaten up the ever falling inter cooler lines:
Before:


After