WA: Back doors 'Boring'

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Awesome work buddy! So happy for you! Looks awesome!

Only thing I'm worried about is that surge tank location :/

I agree with this. Car is awsome but the surge tank location is tempting fate. I have the same surge tank and mounted it where my stock intercooler was. I know this is a vr6 but knowing vw the mounting holes for the intercooler bracket are probably on the frame rail. Check my thread if you want more info but I really think you should rethink that surge tank location

Haha yep i've worried about it from the start as well. Kinda glad the fuel pump seized as its currently not in there at the moment. Only reason i had it there was that was kinda the only place i could fit it in the engine bay. Will look at your thread if its where i think your saying it will work really well thanks.

[Lito]

Haha yep i've worried about it from the start as well. Kinda glad the fuel pump seized as its currently not in there at the moment. Only reason i had it there was that was kinda the only place i could fit it in the engine bay. Will look at your thread if its where i think your saying it will work really well thanks.

This is where it is mounted



I just cut off the bottom bit of the bracket and used some clamps to attach it. You might have to buy the bracket but I'm sure you can find them on eBay cheap

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

I'm very bad on updating forgive me.

So shes been running for a little over a month now and no major engine failures! So that's a plus. Even did a decent drive down to bunbury for work and didn't skip a beat.

Issues so far are:
Leaks, Leaks everywhere. Couple of times coolant leaks out the thermostat housing, coolant temp sensor and the t piece which i forgot to replace. Sorted most of those. Had a few oil leaks from the turbo feed splice into the pressure sensor line which is fixed. Last is the dipstick (i hope) leaking oil as the tube keeps pulling itself out.

Gruven parts dipstick broke into the sump, Second time this has happened. Not happy

044 Fuel pump is seized, Second hand pump so unhappy about that just need to get a replacement and weld up a new bracket for under the front like lito has.

Water pump for intercooler is making very loud noise. Bearing has carked it. New pump so not sure why that's happened but i think its had some issues bleeding the line. At least i can rebuild that or put a new bearing in i hope. Going to pull it apart this week and see what happened.

Other than that the tuning is going well. Can't run the thing hard out as its running lean at the top end due to the stock fuel pump so need to get that sorted before she blows (it wont as long as i keep driving like a sane man)

But nothing major so that's good. Just need to keep a watch on everything.

Here's a somewhat crappy sound clip (excuse the radio as well). I will try and get a good one of the muffler noise but its hard and i don't trust my go pro to stay on the bumper any more. First part is just for the normal driving noise but there is a bit of pulls at the end.

[popeclement]

Sounds awesome. You were in my area too (Scarboro/Loftus Sts)
John

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Cars been running decent with a few exceptions.

My AWIC water pump carked it. Dam thing went really noisy. Pulled it apart as it looked like it could be rebuilt.

All pulled apart. Wasn't too difficult except getting the impeller off which was pressed on the shaft.


And if we look closely at the mechanical seal.... we can see its been leaking. Not happy as this is suppose to be a new pump.


And the bearing... which im guessing is corroded from the water leaking causing the loud noise (yet to pull apart)


Wasn't too hard to put back together but finding the right mechanical seal was near impossible. In the end the parts cost roughly $30.

Ended up getting my replacement 044. Got it for $104 off ebay and was a bit worried about it being genuine but all good. Should go order 5 more and make a killing.


Also noticed the dog bone was screwed getting a lot of wheel hop so i made a bastard version to solve the problem.


Hopefuly this week i can get the fuel pump sorted and catch can so i can get the next stage of tuning sorted.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Tried chasing up a misfire under WOT on the weekend with annoying results. Pulled all the spark plugs to check gaps etc and noticed one was very easy to remove which led to this....i don't think my car is responding well to being turbo'ed, keeps breaking stupid crap.



Kinda glad i managed to get it out with a screwdriver though otherwise it was looking like taking the head off, which would have mean another month down.


I'm fairly confident that the loose spark plug was leaking combustion gas which was causing the misfire. Its kinda a good think as they are the wrong spark plugs anyway but still annoying for around 1000km's old spark plugs. Also very annoyed that i gapped all the spark plugs when installing them at 25thou and upon pulling them out got between 25 and 38thou

Checked all the spark leads which tested ok.
Ran a compression test which also was borderline ok

1	2	3	4	5	6
170	170	155	155	170	155

And still trying to sort out the fuel pump which randomly want to die on me and left me stranded last weekend. Cannot work this think out. Really annoyed as i found an intake pump that fits the OEM spot with no hassles and supports up to 500hp. Would have been soo much easier.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

So I've been having some issues with my 044. It seems to want to only run for roughly 5 minutes at which point it will die and stall the engine. If you hit the surge tank/pump with a hammer it will run again and then die after a further 5 minutes.

The system is as follows
Stock fuel pump -> OEM Filter -> bottom of 034's 044 surge tank -> return line on top of tank -> Tank return.
Pickup from bottom of surge tank -> 044 -> check valve -> Fuel rail -> regulator -> return to top of surge tank.

Wiring is
Fuel pump terminal under dash (forgot its name) -> Activation side of separate 40A relay -> Ground.
Distribution box (on-top of battery) -> Switched side of relay -> 20A Fuse -> Positive of 034 surge tank -> 044 -> Negative of tank -> Ground.

As far as i can tell the 044 is genuine but i have a feeling its not. It matched the same stamping as the previous pump.

So far my testing has revealed.
044 is not starving, fuel is being returned to tank at a high volume whilst running
Fuel is returning from after the regulator
Voltage at pump whilst running is 13v, Fluctuates between 13-6v about 1 minute before dieing
Amperage is around 12A whilst running, Fluctuates between 8-6A before dieing.


From what i can tell i think its a possibility that the wiring is not sufficient enough so when it draws more current the voltage drops and thus the speed of the pump untill it stalls. But this does not explain why hitting the pump with a hammer fixes the issue. That or its another ****/dodgy fuel pump.

[RolfGolf]

Dodgy voltage regulator or wiring inside the pump? Dry solder joints? I'd be checking the wiring and the circuit board - might be that it fails after it heats up ...

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Dodgy voltage regulator or wiring inside the pump? Dry solder joints? I'd be checking the wiring and the circuit board - might be that it fails after it heats up ...

Unfortunately its a sealed unit and you cant dismantle the pump.

[Lito]

Unfortunately its a sealed unit and you cant dismantle the pump.

I've read a lot of stories over on vortex about fake 044s. Apparently the fake ones can even come with the Bosch part numbers stamped into them and everything. Best bet is to forget ebay and get one from a reputable vender like IE or 034 motorsport, it'll cost (around $200us) more but you know you're getting a genuine product.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

I've read a lot of stories over on vortex about fake 044s. Apparently the fake ones can even come with the Bosch part numbers stamped into them and everything. Best bet is to forget ebay and get one from a reputable vender like IE or 034 motorsport, it'll cost (around $200us) more but you know you're getting a genuine product.

Yeah I've read up on it as well but apparently they all say made in Germany not Czech Republic which this one does. Also those fake have different intake sizes. So unless they have stepped their fake game up I'm hoping its not that. Hell if it is the fuel pump im going for the DW60v intank which will solve all my issues quickly, wish i saw it first to be honest.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Yeah I've read up on it as well but apparently they all say made in Germany not Czech Republic which this one does. Also those fake have different intake sizes. So unless they have stepped their fake game up I'm hoping its not that. Hell if it is the fuel pump im going for the DW65v intank which will solve all my issues quickly, wish i saw it first to be honest.

So it looks like i have to eat my own words. Its a fake, a decent fake but fake none the less. My advice, don't buy them off ebay. Luckily i managed to get a refund when i pointed that out but not going down that path again.

I decided to tear it open along with the other legit one that i had that died for information and i think you guys might find it of some use.

Fake on left, Genuine on right.

Casings. Same markings very hard to tell. A little differences in the crimp height etc but would be impossible to tell by itself.


Inlet port. Fake is threaded aluminium, also the wrong pitch. Legit is helicoiled.


Intake filter. Fake is a lot bigger than the legit version. All the debris is due to a tired idiot threading it onto the wrong thread (didn't contribute to the failure however)


Outlet, Not much difference but different material and quality.


Brushes. Quite a difference here. The cause of my intermittent failures was due to the brush sticking back hence why hitting it with a hammer fixed it.


Outside's. Fake is a tube with the notches appearing to be hand cut whereas the real was a sheet with punched notches and rolled into a tube.


Inside, Different magnet holding mechanisms. Ignore the metallic debris from opening.


Armatures. Fake is balanced by taking metal out of the armature (Counted about 5-6 different cuts) whereas the legit is properly balanced. Winding is also better on legit.


Legit Motor and pump. (rusty due to overheating)


Fake motor and pump


The roller pumps appeared to be much the same but if you look closely the legit one has much finer tollerances which is why i think it would flow more.


More photos for those interested

http://s1019.photobucket.com/user/BackDoorShenanigans/library/044

So failure of the first and legit one was due to lack of lubrication. I have a feeling that was due to starving of fuel due to not filling the surge tank prior to running, so my fault. The second pump didn't fail but was having issues due to a poor design of the brushes.

Time to find a DW65v woo.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Never a good way to finish a 13 hour day


Came in to get fuel after work and noticed an oil trail from where i just drove in, ****. Started car up and sure enough huge pile of oil appeared. So not worth risking it ill get it towed.



I think its kinda lucky that i needed fuel otherwise i don't think i would have noticed and it would have been too late. Funny thing is there was no issue when driving to work. Doesn't look major though, think its just the stupid turbo oil feed lines either busted or come loose. Straight after i thought i fixed the leak from that area.

Oil soaked everything.


Shoutout to the nice federal police, bp works and guy from the random skyline who where at least helpful and nice. Also big shout out to Zero Degree Towing. Good rates and great guy with always a few good stories to tell.

[Back Door Shenanigans.]

Found the culprit.



Also found the sump only had 2.5ltrs of oil in it so im considering myself a very lucky person.

[popeclement]

might need to stress relieve the next hose install ?
Good info on the fuel pump too.