Could also be absolutely knackered timing chains. I'd check that out. How many kms?
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Restoring my Golf VR6
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VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
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ya it could be a timing chain because its about due at 240000. it doesn't sound too much like a slap and more of a knock but ill be changing that anyway if im swamping out the int shaft.
just another Q, what stuff runs of the intermediate shaft?
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From what I see an hear, I'm pretty sure your up for a refresh !
Check your head first, might be some tappets or something around that.
If doing a refresh, I'd get every think from vibration dampener to intermediate sprocket, guides, tensioner etcGarage:
VR6
XR6
R36
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Oil light flashing , rattling like crazy . Your up for an engine rebuild . Cost is going to be more dependant upon what damage has been done to the crank / cam guides etc by the previous owner and how far the car was driven like this .Bug_racer supports the rebellion of the euro revolution
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so from what i can tell the bottom end is still ok. it might be a chain but it sounds more like a methodical ticking than a chain slapping, if it is a lifter in the head how can i tell? also is there anything else in the head i can check? What i guess is the problem is the intermediate shaft which could be a bit of work does anyone know of some "how to replace" instructions because Google's not helping me much.
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Originally posted by werd_103 View Postso from what i can tell the bottom end is still ok. it might be a chain but it sounds more like a methodical ticking than a chain slapping, if it is a lifter in the head how can i tell? also is there anything else in the head i can check? What i guess is the problem is the intermediate shaft which could be a bit of work does anyone know of some "how to replace" instructions because Google's not helping me much.
I wouldn't go jumping at the Intermediate shaft idea, as theoretically they should never break. If it has, there is catastrophic engine damage. Especially if you keep starting the car with no oil running through it. VR6's require oil circulation a little more than a regular car, as your chains are lubricated with engine oil. If it has snapped it will be hard to rebuild. For $400 your still doing good if the shell is in good knick.
I'd buy a race engine of seb (bug_racer) if I had my time again.
At that final cost you'll still be coming out even or on top at selling time.Last edited by HaydEn; 23-08-2012, 10:54 AM.
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Ok so i started pulling her apart ive got the valve cover off and was going to take the top timing chain cover and needed to get it to TDC and secure the cams before i let off the tensioner, i didn't notice it at the beginning (not that i was looking for it) but after a few turns to get it to TDC the chain was loose enough to skip a tooth. would turning the engine with out it running not having much oil pressure to the tensioner let it loose? do you guys think if the chain was really loose and one or both the cams jumped a tooth it'd make that noise?
Last edited by werd_103; 23-08-2012, 07:01 PM.
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Chains go around in a circle which means they carnt make loud knocking/banging/slapping etc type of noises.
KI11Z an bug racer are right, strip it down, check it all out, otherwise itll come back an bite u in the ass one day.Garage:
VR6
XR6
R36
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By the sounds, hopefully the bottom end is ok, if it is, do the chains, flywheel, clutch, headgasket etc etc etc etc etc and enjoy 200,000+km's of happy motoring. If not, well the easiest solution would be to find a good runner to bolt in and rebuild your engine over time, or just rebuild yours, depends what you want to do I guessVW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
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