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Sorry for the no0bity of this question, but I have to ask cos otherwise I don't learn!
If the gear ratio (0.84, 0.72) is LOWER, it will go to higher speeds at the same rpm? Ie, 0.84 gear at 100km/h is 2,800, but 0.72 is like 2,500?
well yes it would but i cant see how id ever use that for higher speeds
im doing it to counter act my 3.94 ring and pinion set so it doesnt rev so high in fifth
Looks like one of the middle exhaust braces. I wouldnt worry about that too much since its the rubbers that hold the exhaust up, they are only there if ur rubbers fail and the exhaust droops too much.
"i wouldnt get the short runner inless you get big cams like 288s and a 3.94 r&p to make up for the bottom end loss"
after reading that i got excited
now me being noob about all this performance stuff
some one correct me if my logic seems stupid or wrong
due to having installed my 3.94 r&p this gives me bottom end power (acceleration off the line)
now if i do get this short runner this gives me top end power does it not?
for me to achieve mid range power im thinking of getting a cam
now what sort of cam is a good question?
one might ask someone who hopefully knows what there talking about
a lot of people on vortex have tried these cams drc268s http://www.drcamshafts.com/
and apparently are just as good as the schrick 268s
heres a link for info
pete, correct me if i am wrong but cams with longer duration be it with a short mani or not need high rpm to give full potential of what these cams have to offer 5000+rpm, now considering you have a 3.94 r&p means you dont have the stock tall gearing to make total use of these cams like 288's.
therefore using a 3.94 r&p with high duration cams would mean you would be shifting at the beginning or midway through powerband and obtainable potential of 288's would not do as much as a 264 cam with your r&p.
pete, correct me if i am wrong but cams with longer duration be it with a short mani or not need high rpm to give full potential of what these cams have to offer 5000+rpm, now considering you have a 3.94 r&p means you dont have the stock tall gearing to make total use of these cams like 288's.
therefore using a 3.94 r&p with high duration cams would mean you would be shifting at the beginning or midway through powerband and obtainable potential of 288's would not do as much as a 264 cam with your r&p.
just food for thought.
sorry mate i might of been a bit confusing there, i got a bit of ahead of myself when i said that
i was thinking 262 autotech cams but iv realized there a bit low for what i would need
like you said i would probably need something like that 264, or DRC 268s which are pretty much schrick 268 copies but only half the cost
high duration cams dont necessarily correlate with high top end power. nor does having a higher final driver equate to having better acceleration.
with your tdi 5th you'll be able to cruise at sane RPMs but the difference between 4th and 5th will be maaasssivve.
if you plan on going FI or big power, you should keep old ring and pinion because you'll want the taller gears to wind out. (as tim said!)
to make total use of the 288s.... you'll need a lot more than better gear ratios..
iv decided against fi for now its not worth putting the extra stress on a tired 200 thousand k motor
how does my shorter final drive not equate to better acceleration?
i just think it effectively means more shifting in the process of accelerating... i find that i'm no human-dsg and 020s and 02as don't have the quickest rifle bolt action shift either.
Doesn't a final drive effectively equate to a closer ratio gearbox? ( i'm not trying to question your choice or anything, i'm just getting my head around )
high duration cams dont necessarily correlate with high top end power. nor does having a higher final driver equate to having better acceleration.
with your tdi 5th you'll be able to cruise at sane RPMs but the difference between 4th and 5th will be maaasssivve.
if you plan on going FI or big power, you should keep old ring and pinion because you'll want the taller gears to wind out. (as tim said!)
to make total use of the 288s.a... you'll need a lot more than better gear ratios..
now having a higher duration like a 288 cam makes peak power at much higher rpm than say a 264.pretty much you will have minimal torque before the engine rpm is high enough to maximise lift.this is why 288 are for race and 264 are for street applications. i hear this in numerous NA builds and it sounds pretty much common sense.
as for gearing 3,94 does create better acceleration compared to stock gearing besides head work done however you are sacificing top speed in that gear for acceleration another reason "i think were are pretty much saying the same thing"
as for 288 application major head would need to be done to increase cfm (air flow) to see get the best out of these cams.
(quoted by preen59)
Ring and pinion affects the final drive, so all gears are affected. The ratio between them remains the same.
In this case, "shortened". So the maximum speed in every gear is reduced, but acceleration is improved by the increased ratio. Think of it as using a lower gear on the crank (front sprocket) of your pushbike..
pete have you tested each gear for top speed (legally), interested in knowing how much speed is lost?
also i highly advise you to reconditon your cylinder head before you install cams saves time and money.
i know headworld can do a service and match port for around $1000.
nah mate i havent got the box built yet
il be getting this work done all at the same time
lets see here
recoed box- 3.94 r&p, taller fifth gear, peloquin diff
timing chains
sachs clutch
mk4 head gasket
cams once iv decided what to get
chip to suit cams
maybe the schimmel intake not sure on that one yet
fuel pump
r32 sump with pick up (my sump has had it may as well upgrade)
thats it i think
thats a good idea but all depends on condition of the head plus the budget
also id prefer to keep the work to the one shop, volkwerke are pretty good so il see how i go
but i dont know why are you choosing an r32 sump when the 12v is steel rather aluminium (weak), plus you will have to increase your oil fill-ups by half a litre which i find irritating when you cant find 5.5L + Bottles. and you will have modify the sump to fit from what i remember there is an extra bolt up on the Bell-housing side
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