FYI: Remote keyless entry

[h100vw]

Gavin

[peedman]

Hmmm this does sound interesting, i can delete all the stupid door locks and be done with the eccentrics. Let us know how it goes hawk/ray, the wiring looks stupidly easy.

[rayray086]

The one I got works, just without the window closing thing. I've got extra pair or rear handles and gonna make them look nice and black before I chuck them on.

Thanks for the attachment Gavin, though I don't really understand the window closing part of it...

[peedman]

Oops double post!

[peedman]

Whats the difference between the CLR60PB model and the CLR60PW model? I just wanna know functionality of the unit, works well with factory chip transplated? range of use? etc etc.

Btw the wires for the parkers are all the way at the front so logistically its a pain in the ass if u want to wire them to work, but i reckon would be so worth it.

[h100vw]

The one I got works, just without the window closing thing. I've got extra pair or rear handles and gonna make them look nice and black before I chuck them on.

Thanks for the attachment Gavin, though I don't really understand the window closing part of it...

The total closure needs to be a feature of the standard car. You would just extend the locking pulse of the locking unit.

You can buy window closers but you would need to wire into to each window motor separately.

Gavin

[rayray086]

Whats the difference between the CLR60PB model and the CLR60PW model? I just wanna know functionality of the unit, works well with factory chip transplated? range of use? etc etc.

Btw the wires for the parkers are all the way at the front so logistically its a pain in the ass if u want to wire them to work, but i reckon would be so worth it.

No difference - the "B" model has black outlines around the buttons whereas the "W" model has white instead. Just aesthetics.

Aaron transplanted the black box immobiliser thingy from his original key into a genuine switchblade by dremelling a hole inside and keeping it in place with Blu-Tac, and works like normal.

I don't think I will need much more convincing and would probably buy this unit with you when you do! Sister wants a remote keyless too so she can have my current one Let me know man!

[peedman]

Im tempted to install the one u got now in the cl since it doesnt have power windows, is it any good?

Ill prob get one of those uk ones, let me know if its cheaper combined if not ill get one myself

[rayray086]

It's very simple and works over a reasonable distance. It has the flasher feature built-in so long as you wire it in. The pulses have to be delivered at 3.5 seconds, so you have to wait 3.5 seconds after pressing a button to register another signal. Also has a locating feature - pressing the lock button when the car is locked will make the car flash 5 times.

[The_Hawk]

Looking forward to getting mine this week, then hopefully putting it in next weekend

As for the immobiliser, here is my write up of what I did:

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=18364

When the new one turns up (I got the black one), I will either transfer the internals into my current fob or fit the immobiliser chip into the new one.

Suppose I should replace that drivers side rear window where up is down and down is up so I can actually use the window up/down feature hey

[Mrk_Mickey]

This is sounding great guys! Ray and Pedro if group shipping makes it cheaper, count me in so long as that system works with the window up/down feature! I'm a sucker for the flashy features

GAP Mk3 door handles group buy anyone?? hehe.

[The_Hawk]

Got the kit today and I can tell you the fobs looks pretty cheap, the rubber buttons just fall out, mind you that could be by design since it comes with both balck and white parts so a drop of glue and it will be alright. Not as nice as the original, but not bad.

The internals looks like that can be made to fit the stock fob, but it will require some trimming/cutting of the ciruit board and the fob itself.

But to the fun part. The instructions are vague as very best.

I have worked out that the blue and green wires put out +12 and -12 to open and close the doors, but on opening, the doors lock again straight afterwards, not sure why this is happening since there doesn't appear to be a second signal from the remote unit, seems it's the car that wants to stay locked.

Does anyone happen to know what the go here is?

[sc_rufctr]

If you lock your MK3 from the outside and then someone inside the car tries to unlock the car using one of the door pins, the car will unlock but lock again almost immediately. I think this is a security feature of the Mk3... I only found this out when I jokingly locked my son into my car. lol...

You could try and find another trigger wire inside the door. I haven't done this but I'm guessing you should be able to use the one connected to the external lock cylinder switch.

[The_Hawk]

Problem solved, it's not that red/black wire as in the first post (at least not for me).

You can run power from the air pump's plug Pin 1 is 12V pin 3 is ground.


Then I hooked up pin 7 and 10 to the +12 and -12v lines I was using earlier. Works a charm, open and close. To be honest I don't know if I could be bothered hooking up the flashing lights thing, the windows I will work on, but it's not on the priority list.

Looks like I won't be getting the new electronics into the old fob without a bit of work, but on the upside the new fob has a little slot for your transponder chip making the switch nice and easy for those who need it

Looking good

[VW VR6]

Well done mate excellent write up