My Mk2 Golf GTi

[Water Boy]

Careful that the ac system still doesnt have heaps of gas in it. When I removed my ac I unbolted from beside teh engine and disconnected lines at the firewall. there should only be a few brackets to undo.

Remember you will need a shorter belt because you are removing the ac pulley.

[russ83]

Thanks waterboy. Re the pulley, do I need anything else other than a new belt? Can the alternator belt run off another pulley, as it looks like that pulley comes out when the compressor comes out.

[russ83]

Question for you guys, according to a printout from VW, these allen key screws should be screws, can anyone confirm?

Cheers

[dado]

no allen key on mine can confirm that for you.

[AusScare]

Don't get me started on the allen head screws, I had to grind off 2 of them from the rear brakes because they were threaded.

Seriously, why didn't they just put in normal bolts!!!

[russ83]

Thanks guys. I have a feeling these Allen head screws are the cause of my violent shudder when taking off, not the engine mounts...

[russ83]

[russ83]

New shoes

[ozgti]

Question for you guys, according to a printout from VW, these allen key screws should be screws, can anyone confirm?

Cheers

They are 8mm triple square bits- (multispline) from memory.

[tommymac]

nice car mate, my 1.8t mk2 cost a fair bit but I did go OTT. I think you could do it for 4k all up.

[jayjay]

Looks pretty good mate. Any thoughts on engine conversion yet?

tommy, i dunno about 4 grand for a 1.8t swap..

Assuming free labour (internet DIYs are gold, up until the point where US/UK spec cars differ to Aussie spec):

16v ABF swap
pros: bolts into mk2 subframe, can use 020 transmission, scope of tuning with standalone
cons: won't make as much power on standard electronics, less local availability
needs:
wiring harness and ECU to control fuel (can use OEM or standalone)
ignition system - different coil depending on ECU
cooling system - OEM or modified original

12v VR6 swap
pros: good power/torque standard, local availability, sound, online conversion support
cons: heavy, not as much scope of tuning, can't use 020 transmission
needs:
mk3/seat k-frame for rear engine mount
5/6 cylinder bellhousing transmission (02a/j/m etc)
pedal box for hydraulic clutch (also MC & slave cylinder)
wiring harness & ECU - OEM is probably simplest unless you're familiar with standalone
cooling system - routing and radiator completely different
exhaust system - fanagle, custom or bolt in?

1.8T 20v swap
pros: big tuning scope, reasonable availability, can use 020/4cylinder transmission (until it inevitably explodes)
cons: sensors/parts more expensive, engine more expensive
needs:
wiring harness & ECU (standalone is probably easiest)
(you have to be quite versed in VCDS to bypass/disable immobiliser to use OEM harness & ecu)
intercooler routing - custom
cooling system
exhaust system

i'd say reasonable pricing for each motor is between $1000 and $2000 depending on condition, kms, extras included (ancillaries, water system, harness etc). You then need something to control that engine - whether it be OEM or standalone, you'll need $1000 to make that work properly. For the VR6, you also need a different gearbox because the standard one will not fit... that's about $1500-$2000. Whilst you've got any one of these motors out, you may as well change timing belts/chains/sensors/senders because they'll bite you in the ass when you're troubleshooting later on. Another $1000. Then having physically installed it, it'll need an exhaust system. Because you're doing an engine conversion for more power, you don't want some 1.5" dialysis tubing choking it up. $500 - $2000. Then it's time to get under the dash!

So that's $4000-$4500 in parts before you lift the hood of your car.

[russ83]

Looks pretty good mate. Any thoughts on engine conversion yet?

cheers for the post. no thoughts on conversion yet.

thought i'd post up a couple of pics i took today.

Today, I managed to uncover the car, and found lots of mould growing on the seatbelts, steering wheel and handbrake. So I ripped the majority of the sound deadening out and found them to be very wet/moist. hopefully that will dry it out.

[GTI JOHN]

Looks good

[benough]

You coming to the Nats in your MK2 on Sunday Russ?

[russ83]

Hey guys, bit of an update for you Bit like Auscare regarding motivation or lack of it due to work and crappy weather, but I have scored a sparco seat and harness from a mate, and just paid for a seat mount base from GSL Rally Sport. So hopefully I can get a seat in there very soon.

Also tonight I bought off ebay, a Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel + hub. Thanks Auscare again for this, bit of a copy cat, but I liked your style lol. At least our cars are different colours Red goes faster so they say

Also, I am in the middle of getting a radiator made up from PWR. Expensive yes, but I have searched and searched online for places that do radiators other than OEM replacements or new ones from China, but had no luck. So I bit the bullet this week and posted my original radiator to PWR in Qld and hopefully I get this back soon.

Managed to rip out all carpet and sound deadening, which again like Auscare, was all wet and rotted away and caused mould inside my car. All leftover sound deadening bits stuck to the floor pan was simply scrapped away with a steel brush.

I have update Page 1 first post with my costs so far so you guys can tell me what else you think I should be collecting.


Next thing I have to do is remove the left over AC lines and compressor. Any tips of the compressor removal??? bit stuck there.