Cleaning the EGR and Inlet on a GT

[benough]

Anyone????

[gldgti]

I read your post as a statement....haha

What is it you need to know? You need to buy better tools???

Also a little confused what you are trying to remove - are you attempting to remove the entire EGR circuit, with the cooler and everything or just the inlet valve and throttle body? Or none of the above?

Not having a stab, just confused what you want

[benough]

Well I have Kinchrome stuff which has been great so far and undid EVERYTHING else.

The section between the rubber hose from the intercooler and the start of the plastic manifold.

I would call that the throttle and the EGR control flap. I understand I need to remove this to get to the manifold bolts.

[gldgti]

sorry, yeah not having a stab at your tools either per se - i have plenty of kinchrome tools.

you have GT right? Surely greg can help.... for an 8V i know its just the three bolts but for you I don't know.

Sometimes it will be stuck on with age/heat/gasket etc.... from the diagram I would say there are 5 bolts that need to be removed to get it off.... so you only got 4 of them???

[Greg Roles]

Three bolts mate, starting from the lower EGR flap section, remove the two front and the long hidden rear one. Unplug and yank off the flap mechanism. Two bolts to go to remove the EGR inlet from the manifold, and you obviously need to unbolt the EGR inlet pipe.

You need to remove this part to get the one, recessed and hidden bolt in the manifold inlet throat itself. All the other bolts are on the exterior of the manifold. Check my pics from the second tinker thread.

Once you've done it, it will all make perfect sense....don't beat yourself up, we all struggle at times!

[benough]

Thanks Greg

Can you confirm the bits need to remove the lower EGR flap section and the EGR inlet?

Mine hex and torx bits slip which lead me to believe they *may* have been munched by my mechanic when then were removed some month ago.

I think it's H4 for the lower and T25 for the upper.

Thanks in advance.

[gregm]

Thanks Greg

Can you confirm the bits need to remove the lower EGR flap section and the EGR inlet?

Mine hex and torx bits slip which lead me to believe they *may* have been munched by my mechanic when then were removed some month ago.

I think it's H4 for the lower and T25 for the upper.

Thanks in advance.

for what it's worth, my 2005 TDI 2.0L 103kw (yes, I know it doesnt say "GT" ) has hex heads and not torx - 5mm for EGR (3), 6mm for inlet pipe to EGR (2) and manifold are also 6mm hex. There arent any torx to be seen (yet...or "I hope") on EGR assembly

Heads have not been mangled in anyway, and are definately 5mm and 6mm - allen keys fit nicely, and bolts can be turned/loosened by hand.

hope this helps

[benough]

Hey Greg

Thanks for those numbers. I've been working on the MK2 but I'll have a crack soon and report back

Cheers

[benough]

and it's all off!

I actually used a T27 torx bit and it worked like a charm.

My valves are pretty clean I thought. Will post pre and post pics later today

---------- Post added 16-11-2011 at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous post was 13-11-2011 at 02:21 PM ----------

Here's my findings.

The intake flap was nowhere near as bad as I thought but the EGR valve could have been worse. Because I couldn't soak stuff overnight I didn't get them back to shiny/smooth but removed all of the dry caked on soot. As for the inlet manifold I got most of it out and most it off the tumble flaps. Pretty good for 120,000km

I did notice two of the pieces which guide the tumble flap rail and popped out. Pushed em back in easy enough...

I also fitted the EGR gasket with the smaller hole.

The cars isn't faster but it's boosting stronger. Even on Monday, when it was well over 30 degrees, it boosted like it would at 20 degrees.

Greg, would it be the EGR gasket is now burning proportionally more oxygen and it going better?

[Greg Roles]

Dropping EGR would have to help, and it will actually assist the DPF living a little longer. I didnlt notice any performance change blocking the EGR entirely, but in theory it should assist. I think it;s the fact your car has cleared it's throat and can breath again now, you'd have to have upped the airflow by cleaning all that crud out, and i reckon that would have given the noticable difference.

Easy enough now you've done it once hey, but how dirty do your hands get !!!

[benough]

Yeah I knew that would have made the most difference but was curious with the blanking plate.

Yeah I was kinda crapping it once it was off but now I'd do it again. Especially when I managed to drop 3 of the 3 throttle flap bolts into the engine bay

Tell me about it! My fingernails are still dirty 3 days later.

[benough]

FYI.

The fuel consumption hasn't really improved around town.

Tonight though. I drove from Springwood to Seven Hills along the highway/motorway and got 5.7l/100km door to door.

Pre clean it was never under 6.5l/100km.

[jazd]

Got charged $28 for a gasket. $6 is sounding like a good deal. Hope I got the right one.

[jazd]

FWIW I have found the easiest way to remove stubborn carbon and greasy deposits is with a caustic cleaner, like oven cleaner, draino, or mild caustic soda (NaOH) and water, also some engine cleaners are slightly caustic and more gentle on aluminium. Liquid hydrocarbons like carb cleaner are fairly weak with carbon and only dissolve the grease. Use a nylon brush or toothbrush as caustic will eat up hair brushes and any other carbon based material (like skin) Wear specs and rubber gloves. Method just gently brush on solution, wait a while then rinse off with lots of water from hose. A plastic manifold could be soaked for a few hours then washed spotlessly clean with no damaging scraping or chipping needed.

This sounds like a good idea to me. Is Caustic Soda OK on the nylon (is it nylon.. im just repeating what Greg said) intakes of the GT?

[wfdTamar]

You might find some of the bolt heads are triple square - they look like Torx, but have more splines. I got a set of about 8 off ebay for about $50.