Yeah expert guys, what's the go?
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Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.

The new forum software is an upgraded version of what came before, it's mostly the same but also a little different. Hopefully easier to use and more stable than before.
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EGR should we all be more concerned
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i like this method:
or this one (inspirational picture by mollins)
2x Caddy, 1x Ducato
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Just for the record, the MkV manifold is plastic.2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
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Originally posted by Transporter View PostIt could be very expensive.
Once the car done 150,000km and the sludge in the inlet would affect the performance the most people would've consider upgrading the car rather than have expensive repair like cleaning the inlet, intercooler and other parts of intake which could possibly need replacing rather than just cleaning.
IMO it will be 200,000km on engine before the sludge from EGR will affect the performance, of course there will be some engines which will clog up earlier than that.
in this case, i will just tend to it/ replace or rebuild turbo and clean manifold when time comes.
i dont think i'll be upgrading at that many km's. i want this car to last ages. the current pogo is one of the last small cars. by 150,000kms, the then polo will be the size of the current model lancer sportback
i heard that the turbo and intake manifold are one on the vnt's- is this misinformed?
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Originally posted by Buller_Scott View Postdo you guys reckon it would be advantageous to ask the dealer to do intake clean at service?.....2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD
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That first video of Niel's shows a clever idea, in that they fit a restrictor to prevent over revving ( try a squirt of Carb cleaner down there and see how it revs! )
and I have no doubt this will declog the inlet somewhat. I was suprised when the guy backed up that there wasn't a ton of gunk on the ground behind the exhaust. Personally removing it this aggressively would possibly clog the DPF, and that is a concern for those with one.
Fuel injector cleaner will only clean from the combustion chamber on, will do nothing for the inlet sludge before that. I can't see oil conditioners doing much either, to be honest, as the sludge is a simple combination of oil vapor and exhaust soot. Even if the vapor has conditioner, or even if there is a little less, sludge is still going to occur. I have less thanks to my provent, but it's still happening.
My idea I am trying as of today is to add a water/meths mix to the inlet after the MAF, simple venturi feed, no pressure, and add a mix over several weeks, slowly, and see if this cleans it up. I'll let you guys know what happens, but in my mind, a slow, long term cleaning of the inlet tract is the way to go, especially with that darn DPF.
I may try some other things through the engine in small amounts once I work out if this simple system is working on my car, and it doesn't flip out / explode / launch the head into the air.
Remember people, adding water to a high combustion diesel has to be done VERY carefully. You have nearly twice the compression of a normal car, and water can kill a diesel easily. Keep those aftermarket inlet pods up high boys, puddles are your enemy! ( Probably move some sludge before it blew though! )Last edited by Greg Roles; 25-03-2009, 10:10 AM.2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
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I would be very careful what is used for a slow, long term cleaning of the inlet tract, as it would be added to the fuel mixture and chemical reaction in combustion under the pressure and at the high temperatures could be unpredictable. Bi products of the combustion would be a new kind of pollutants in the oil, that could be doing more harm then the sludge in the inlet would do.
The proper fix would be to reduce the amount of the engine oil in blow-by gases entering the engine's inlet tract.
But, if you still want to use a cleaner to clean the inlet, than have a look at this site.
Interject diesel system cleaner can be sprayed onto inlet manifold for cleaning purposes.
I use The Interject equipment and products in my business and they are really good.Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
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On that note I can't seem to adjust my Provent side pressure regulator. I do remember taking it apart when i got it for a lookie see, but it doesn't want to turn either way. I'm going to get onto Sydney Filter services, where I bought it, and see what they have to say. The Provent manual, I have my original here, is vague in this area. Obviously getting this working is my best solution.
As for adding stuff to my inlet to clean out what's already there, well, too late...
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
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Aren't you going to make proper bracket for that bottle?
I have 2 Provents from Sydney and both are turning - will have a look at the spare one in the evening and let you know.Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
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Only if it works, and it needs to stay. Zip ties are marvellous things, next to silastic.
She's been ingesting my 50/50 mix of water - metho no problemo so far.
If it catches on fire and I survive, I'll let you know you were right.2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
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Originally posted by Mischa View Postwwhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat! first car i've ever come across with a plastic manifold
Lots of plastic manifilds around on cars these days, dont be fooled by the look of them, often they are textured on the visible surfaces and appear to be cast alloy but are not.'07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
'98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
'99 A4 Quattro 1.8T
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The upside, apart from easy drillingis they don't conduct heat into the inlet as much as metal does. Phenolic spacers, a poor heat conductor, is an old hot rodders trick to keep carbs and the like cooler.
Personally I'm stoked to have a plastic poor heat conductor bolted to the engine.
May change that is the car bursts into flames on my metho'd drive home shortly.....2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
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Originally posted by gldgti View PostChev LS1 has plastic manifold.... right from VT.
Lots of plastic manifilds around on cars these days, dont be fooled by the look of them, often they are textured on the visible surfaces and appear to be cast alloy but are not.
And your telling me plastic maniflods??
What next plastic heads/blocks.
So much to learn.
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