The great big MK6 Golf 118TSI tuning thread

[rygreen93]

You have to remember that it's drivability too, peak power isn't everything. So having more torque available sooner makes it's much better to drive.

BTW Hawk how is your stage 2 going? Started going ahead with it yet?

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[Rawcpoppa]

Apr tune sounds better to be honest. Same power and higher torque than 270 Nm. Most stage 1 tunes for that matter offer the same thing. Twincharger a get max torque at really low rpm too so can't see this tune giving an advantage that way either.

Interested to see the results of this new tune though. Harding usually does good stuff.

[The_Hawk]

I'm at a cross roads, I can still do the intercooler which would be nice.. But what else?
There is no downpipe so the exhaust would be more about sound than performance.
I've got the intake, DV+, the car had the updated HPFP already...

So what is a stage 2 upgrade?
And even then, is it worth pushing a CAVD any harder??

[Rawcpoppa]

The great big MK6 Golf 118TSI tuning thread

I'm at a cross roads, I can still do the intercooler which would be nice.. But what else?
There is no downpipe so the exhaust would be more about sound than performance.
I've got the intake, DV+, the car had the updated HPFP already...

So what is a stage 2 upgrade?
And even then, is it worth pushing a CAVD any harder??

Aren't there downpipe a available with high flow cat? Saw some on eBay made by a company in Greece. About US$480 for euro 3 200 cell cat. US$780 for euro 4 version. Will post link in a bit. Alternatively you could take out your downpipe and knock out the stock cat then put the dp back in then tune for stage 2....might be smelly though.

Stage 2 from what I've heard is a nice upgrade and I'm going to do it because I'm just a downpipe and tune away from it.

[Rawcpoppa]

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/251557378431

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/371023583793

The seller can also make changes to the dp before shipping to you if you like based on email correspondence I had with them months ago.

[rygreen93]

I'm at a cross roads, I can still do the intercooler which would be nice.. But what else?
There is no downpipe so the exhaust would be more about sound than performance.
I've got the intake, DV+, the car had the updated HPFP already...

So what is a stage 2 upgrade?
And even then, is it worth pushing a CAVD any harder??

What about looking into an exhaust shop doing a custom downpipe? But I kinda see where you are coming from.

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[rygreen93]

Who has an APR tune and how big a difference did it make when you got it?

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[Mk R]

I've got my unresonated Milltek TBE ready to go on soon, just looking to find the measurements of the central exhaust channel to see if i can install a Dynomax VT valve muffler in the straight section to quiet it down untill ~4,000RPM +.

I spoke with an APR dealer here in Sydney and they've got the stage 2 software for me there ready to go so it's going to happen soon. Looks like about 167 kW and 320 nM claimed output.

Got the previous stage 2 thread ready to update too. Next step is a stage 1 dyno, then install then stage 2 dyno. I feel like i owe it to the forum to do it properly after all the time a spent soaking up other people's escapades.

If you haven't already seen it, checkout Lucifer's guide part 2: tuning for the 1.4 twincharger. He took his all the way to stage 3 with the Loba 270 hybrid turbo. Those stage 3 setups are getting something around 200kw+ out of a 1.4.

[Mk R]

I have Stage 1 APR. It's awesome. the low torque makes it pull like a diesel from 2500RPM and the 4000RPM+ range is epic.

EDIT: The difference is immediately noticeable and substantial. Worth it.

EDIT 2: there are other cheaper tunes out there that do similar FYI

[Ryan_R]

Many workshops offer a 6 hour free trial of APR Stage 1. I went back to purchase after 2 hours.

[rygreen93]

Many workshops offer a 6 hour free trial of APR Stage 1. I went back to purchase after 2 hours.

Yeah I have always been keen to get the APR tune. Maybe I'll just ditch the idea of letting Guy do it and rather just get it done by APR. That way I won't be disappointed.

I have Stage 1 APR. It's awesome. the low torque makes it pull like a diesel from 2500RPM and the 4000RPM+ range is epic.

EDIT: The difference is immediately noticeable and substantial. Worth it.

EDIT 2: there are other cheaper tunes out there that do similar FYI

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[blower]

Who has an APR tune and how big a difference did it make when you got it?

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I went with a stage 1 APR tune a few months ago - unfortunately I had issues with it.
It would misfire at 4000rpm (hesitation and sometimes it would put the CEL on with random misfires logged).
It primarily did this under full load up an incline in fifth gear, but I also had it do it in 3rd and 4th.

The second problem is after a couple of WOT's, even ones where it didn't misfire it would drop back to stock boost levels and stay there for 5-10 minutes or so of driving...i.e. once it did this 'boost limp' every WOT would just be a stock boost and power, then after a while it would be back to doing the full boost again.

In terms of modifications, I have a golf R / S3 intercooler, latest revision injectors and also I got the coil pack adapter and audi R8 coil packs. I tried different plugs but the misfires were still there.

The map is very aggressive, especially right around 4000 rpm. It has trouble controlling boost levels and the turbo charger is running flat out for a lot of the rev range, the map is putting in boost requests as high as 2600mbar (1.6bar absolute), yet the intake manifold pressure sensor can only read up to 2550, so the turbo is running unregulated, I have measure boost pressures as high as 1.7 bar in reality.

It also runs too rich at 4000rpm, full load - which is the reason I believe it misfires. With an AFR as low as 10.3 (0.7 lambda), right when I get the misfires. This I believe is because the newer revision injectors are fouling the sparks under maximum fueling - as Lucifer's guide points out. I have noticed that people who push these sort of pressures/power are not running anywhere near these AFR figures and I bet that's due to misfires under richer running.

[rygreen93]

I went with a stage 1 APR tune a few months ago - unfortunately I had issues with it.
It would misfire at 4000rpm (hesitation and sometimes it would put the CEL on with random misfires logged).
It primarily did this under full load up an incline in fifth gear, but I also had it do it in 3rd and 4th.

The second problem is after a couple of WOT's, even ones where it didn't misfire it would drop back to stock boost levels and stay there for 5-10 minutes or so of driving...i.e. once it did this 'boost limp' every WOT would just be a stock boost and power, then after a while it would be back to doing the full boost again.

In terms of modifications, I have a golf R / S3 intercooler, latest revision injectors and also I got the coil pack adapter and audi R8 coil packs. I tried different plugs but the misfires were still there.

The map is very aggressive, especially right around 4000 rpm. It has trouble controlling boost levels and the turbo charger is running flat out for a lot of the rev range, the map is putting in boost requests as high as 2600mbar (1.6bar absolute), yet the intake manifold pressure sensor can only read up to 2550, so the turbo is running unregulated, I have measure boost pressures as high as 1.7 bar in reality.

It also runs too rich at 4000rpm, full load - which is the reason I believe it misfires. With an AFR as low as 10.3 (0.7 lambda), right when I get the misfires. This I believe is because the newer revision injectors are fouling the sparks under maximum fueling - as Lucifer's guide points out. I have noticed that people who push these sort of pressures/power are not running anywhere near these AFR figures and I bet that's due to misfires under richer running.

Sounds like a really bad experience mate. Sorry to hear it. Most people seem to only have good things to say. Mine is a 2012 model so I believe they had sorted quite a few of the issues by then.

I guess I'll let you guys know later in the week what I decide to go with.

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[blower]

Sounds like a really bad experience mate. Sorry to hear it. Most people seem to only have good things to say. Mine is a 2012 model so I believe they had sorted quite a few of the issues by then.

I guess I'll let you guys know later in the week what I decide to go with.

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Your 2012 will have the newer revision injectors that i now have, so you may run into the same problems with misfires at 4k under full load. May not though - like everything it's hit and miss. In Greece where this engine is tuned a lot i have heard they have had nothing but problems with the APR maps.

I'm in the process of fitting forged pistons and have stripped the engine down. My intake ports/valves at 55k miles are coked up to hell - so it may have been a contributing factor to the misfires...but i do believe the APR map in its current form has issues - lack of boost control for most of the rev range under full load, and i think its borderline on misfiring at maximum torque around 4k rpm due to running too rich.

[blower]

As above, I'm in the middle of rebuilding my engine on my 2010 1.4 TSI 160 CAVD - fitting forged pistons and doing a full head decoke and a 'valve' job before mapping for power. There's nothing wrong with the engine - it was running fine, other than a a slight rough idle intermittently....

I'll be doing a full write up on my rebuild soon, however i thought i would just do a post to show you guys how bad the intake build up is, worse than i expected.....



It has 55k miles on it, i have owned the car since 30k miles, it has oil changes every 5k miles and gets a good run now and then, although half my journeys are fairly short.

No wonder the idle has some issues - with the state of the intake ports and valves its surprising the idle isn't a lot worse.

Have spent hours cleaning just the valves, using a brass wheel on my bench grinder, followed by dremel scouring polishing wheels......that stuff is on there and the idea that something like seafoam or water mist through the intake is going to do anything is a joke.

The brass wheel on the bench grinder and a drill spinning the valve did the trick though, ripped all the crud clean off without damaging the valve (precautions were taken to protect the valve stem). Further cleaning with various tools on the dremel got rid of surface stains and polished it right up:

Cleaned and polished: