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Yeah I used Volkspower too. They are good. Try your luck with paying the deposit. They may need the full sale on their books this financial year, but you never know.
Pay for it today and get it installed when the car arrives.
They will certainly need full payment now before EOFY.
Just wondering if anyone has added the Immobiliser program and what they think of it. I've got the Golf 118 TSI just yet (few weeks away apparently) and don't know what type of alarm/immobiliser is added by default. My main concern is that I won't use the feature all too often and will end up forgetting and will lock myself out
The 118TSI, as do all Golfs, already has a Electronic Engine Immobilisier. What the APR Anti-theft thing does is stop the accelerator pedal doing anything, so even if someone has the key and can start the car, they can't drive it.
Valet mode could be useful as well. Does anyone know exactly what restrictions it imposes?
It imposes rev restrictions and I believe a top speed limit. The limits for each vehicle are not published anywhere that I can find though, so you're best to ask your local APR dealer that specific question.
Also, does adding a chip/program increase insurance premiums at all?
This dealers on both yourself and your insurer. I know that with my vehicle/driving/insurance history, having the ECU flashed on my Polo GTI does not increase the insurance premium for either NRMA or Shannons, UNLESS you wish to cover the cost of the ECU in the coverage - i.e. increase the value of the vehicle and thus the amount being insured.
I was worried that twin-charging a 1.4 to 118kW would lead to problems down the track
The twin-charger starts at 118kW/240Nm. The APR 151kW/317Nm. There are quite a few people around the world using this tune without issues, but you are correct, any time that you increase the performance of a part, you do place more stress on it which could lead to issues. Then again, buying a Ferrari doesn't mean you won't have issues with its additional power either.
Just wondering if anyone has added the Immobiliser program and what they think of it.
I would be interested in feedback on this too.
I elected to skip this option and save the money, because I reckon it would be problematic to use and I would never end up using it. Someone who has it can confirm, but from what I understand you have to manually activate it every time you want it. So this would involve turning the car off, then turning IGN back on them rooting around with the cruise control/ blinker knob, then turning the Ign off again getting out and locking the car. PITA I reckon.
Valet mode in a 118tsi is a gimmick I reckon. In any case to hobble the car & turn it into a 90tsi you can disable the supercharger quicker than you could enable the valet mode (assuming you already have the bonnet open).
Golf Mk6 118 TSI DSG |APR Stage I ECU Upgrade | HEX-USB+CAN
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Er, um... Either you're getting a unbelievable discount on your 118TSI, or the dealer tried to take you for a ride with the GTI...
Thanks for the answers. What I meant was that the different between a 118TSI and a GTI is roughly $10,000, and if I spent near-$2000 tuning it, then that is roughly 20%.
Although with increased power comes the need for better handling and stopping, and better seats to hold you in place, and obviously you're not getting that as part of your near-$2000 spent. You could start optioning up the TSI with the Sport package, or do aftermarket upgrades to the seats/suspension/braking, but then you may as well have bought the GTI to begin with
Well, the TSI I'm planning on getting is 2nd hand. I doubt I could afford a brand new TSI at my age (as much as I'd love one). I was also offered a MkV GTI for a similar price but I prefer the extra toys and comforts (leather seats in the Mk6 as well). There is a small catch, but I'll make a new thread for that discussion.
I had my MKVI GTI tune with the 6 hour Stage 1 by Dean at Volkspower last week. After 3 minutes in the car I paid the full $1625 for the tune to be permanent, it is that good.
Also, all the speculators need to keep their uninformed opinions to themselves, jealously makes ****ty threads.
You CAN also change the tune WHILE DRIVING (not that you would), the manual states this:
In the case of cars that are equipped with EMCS modules, never attempt to change chip modes while the vehicle is in motion. (It is possible to change modes while
driving or with the car idling but it is not recommended.) This is dangerous due to the fact that one must look at the dash to locate what mode they are in. Program
switching should always be done with the car off and the key in the on position or with the car stopped and the engine idling.
My GTI now gets wheelspin all the way into 3rd gear on good roads, it doesn't have to change down as much to make power but you need to be 2500+ revs to really feel the extra power, after that it's chalk and cheese. Do it.
Also, all the speculators need to keep their uninformed opinions to themselves, jealously makes ****ty threads.
Nice thing to say after all of 3 posts in these forums.
I will speculate that the manual is somewhat generic and you cannot in fact change modes while driving. But I am only speculating as I have a MK6 118tsi and not a MK6 GTI.
Golf Mk6 118 TSI DSG |APR Stage I ECU Upgrade | HEX-USB+CAN
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I had my MKVI GTI tune with the 6 hour Stage 1 by Dean at Volkspower last week. After 3 minutes in the car I paid the full $1625 for the tune to be permanent, it is that good.
Very nice.
Tell me - when was your car built, and did they need to physically remove the ECU to flash it? I believe at one point there was a suggestion that the design has been changed by VW to prevent flashing via a port under the dash, and can now only be done with the ECU on a bench; as a result, dealers can subsequently observe that the ECU had been removed and therefore deduce it's been flashed.
I believe at one point there was a suggestion that the design has been changed by VW to prevent flashing via a port under the dash, and can now only be done with the ECU on a bench; as a result, dealers can subsequently observe that the ECU had been removed and therefore deduce it's been flashed.
Unless the performance company has replacement screws etc so that they can put it back in "as new" condition...
Tell me - when was your car built, and did they need to physically remove the ECU to flash it? I believe at one point there was a suggestion that the design has been changed by VW to prevent flashing via a port under the dash, and can now only be done with the ECU on a bench; as a result, dealers can subsequently observe that the ECU had been removed and therefore deduce it's been flashed.
Also had APR Stage 1 done at Volkspower last week - they did not remove the ECU at all - all done via cable. Paid $1695 with 7 programs - i wont use most of them but will use security lockout when dealer services and will use some of the others from time to time. Very happy with it - drives smooth as and the extra power is available when required.
My car has a build plate of Jan 2010 and arrived in Oz early April 2010.
Nice thing to say after all of 3 posts in these forums.
I will speculate that the manual is somewhat generic and you cannot in fact change modes while driving. But I am only speculating as I have a MK6 118tsi and not a MK6 GTI.
Dont get your knickers in a knot, it wasnt specific to you.
I'm sure someone in spare parts must say "gee that company buys a lot of these security bolts, I wonder what they do with them?"
Lol! Good point. So in the instances where an APR dealer needs to remove the ECU to flash it on the bench with that new equipment you and your dealers have, do they have replacement security bolts? Or do you have a method of removing the ECU without it being detectable to the dealers?
Recently flush my car with APR stage I very happy with everything but I have noticed one thing
that my ESP light often comes on and I get some wheel spin even at 2nd gear. Just wondering if that is normal ?
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