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All the loose panels have been wet sanded back and clear coated.
They're spread out all over my lounge room so I don't damage them in the shed.
I'm retouching the interior at the moment before clearing it.
Should have all the paintwork done by Easter.
More parts have arrive, more parts have been ordered.
I'm in negotiation with motor part suppliers at the moment on the bottom end package.
In between all of that I'm committing crimes against machining.
Professional metal workers close your eyes now.
Tiny lathes with wobbly vertical milling attachments aren't meant to work this way.
Just setting up the rear discs to take ARP wheel studs, The fronts are a lot easier as the back of the hubs are already flat.
---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 PM ----------
Also I'd like to point out that I do realise that's not the right way to hold an end mill, but it's all I've got and I'm not about to go and buy a bunch of collets and a MT adapter to make it work properly.
dear lord that an interesting way to spot face something. But hey, better than paying someone to do it!
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
Target completion is this year. I need to get the CAMS log book signed off this calendar year because the roll cage was built under 2011 rules and they changed the rules in 2012.
As far as I can tell my cage still meets the 2012 rules but I'm using this as the excuse/motivation to get it finished off.
Been working through some front drive flanges today.
I chose ARP studs part number 100-7719 they're listed for Mazda race applications.
Wheel Stud Style Press-in
Wheel Stud Thread Size 12mm x 1.50 RH
Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.507 in.
Underhead Length (in) 2.750 in.
Knurl Length (in) 0.335 in.
Quick-Start Nose No
Quantity Sold as a set of 4.
Notes Designed to fit Mazda front or rear 1990-93 applications
and front only on 1994-2005 applications.
The knurl diameter is pretty small and doesn't need a lot of metal taken out. I drilled the threads out to 12.5mm and them reamed the holes to 12.75mm. (After checking with ARP
Pressing them in is a nice tight fit.
I made this tool to spot face the back of the flange, it's a bit rough but seems to work OK.
I'm still figuring out all this machining stuff.
Here I'm just trimming a little off the inner edge of the stud heads so they don't foul on the hub.
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