Wax vs Polish - The Difference

[vwthunder]

Was Hand as good as machine? I don't mind doing it by hand as your only going to do it like 3-4 times a year. I dont drive my car that much.

Hmm to tell you the truth, yes, BUT it might be that i wasn't using the correct products.

Doing it by hand and using the machine both left fine spider webs that you can only see under UV light.

Going to try again with a different compound as I have been doing a bit of research.

I guess if you like detailing the car it is probably better to get a machine, just it might take a little while to work out how to use it to its maximum potential

[TDZ]

Hi all,

just a question regarding maintenance of a finely detailed car. how important is it to use a wax cleaner/remover?

The reason why i ask i'm one of those guys that will spend hours cleaning/clay bar/polish/wax etc but i do it quite regularly do i really need to repeat the entire process? Presumably if i wax /clean car regularly(every 1-2 months), by definition of using a wax there shouldnt be any bonded contaminates/swirl marks etc right?

or is it ideal to just go through the process everytime? i'm mainly concerned about polishing the car too frequently and thus ruining a new car paintjob over time.

[carcareproducts]

Hmm to tell you the truth, yes, BUT it might be that i wasn't using the correct products.

Doing it by hand and using the machine both left fine spider webs that you can only see under UV light.

Going to try again with a different compound as I have been doing a bit of research.

I guess if you like detailing the car it is probably better to get a machine, just it might take a little while to work out how to use it to its maximum potential

The machine will not leave spider marks, what is happening is your cut/or time spent on the paint isnt enough. A 9n3 polo has quite good paint and being black should take you one entire day on the machine if you are "correcting" the paint.

What are you using? Cheers.

---------- Post added at 09:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 AM ----------

Hi all,

just a question regarding maintenance of a finely detailed car. how important is it to use a wax cleaner/remover?

The reason why i ask i'm one of those guys that will spend hours cleaning/clay bar/polish/wax etc but i do it quite regularly do i really need to repeat the entire process? Presumably if i wax /clean car regularly(every 1-2 months), by definition of using a wax there shouldnt be any bonded contaminates/swirl marks etc right?

or is it ideal to just go through the process everytime? i'm mainly concerned about polishing the car too frequently and thus ruining a new car paintjob over time.

Realistically, once your paint is corrected and looking good. You should only have to rewax the car every 2/3 months if it is a daily driver (premium waxes). Other waxes you may need to do it more regularly it just depends on what you use?

The idea of using a wax cleanser is to remove any product or polish oils that are/were on the car to ensure your wax gets a good bond onto the paint so you get the fully benefits of the longevity and looks. Otherwise you could put a product that may last few months on something that could/would only last 1 week! Meaning that it'll all come off in a week!

[derkaiser94]

Should lime prime be applied before or after Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent and Total Performance Polish? I intend to apply a layer of dodo wax afterwards. How long should the Duragloss Total Performance Polish be allowed to cure? Or should it be wiped off immediately after applying?

Also, how should Dodo Juice Red Mist be applied? Through a applicator or cloth? Is there a need for it to cure and buff off?

[Wolfgang]

Should lime prime be applied before or after Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent and Total Performance Polish? I intend to apply a layer of dodo wax afterwards. How long should the Duragloss Total Performance Polish be allowed to cure? Or should it be wiped off immediately after applying?

Also, how should Dodo Juice Red Mist be applied? Through a applicator or cloth? Is there a need for it to cure and buff off?

Lime Prime and Duragloss Bonding Agent are both paint cleaners. If you are going to apply DG Total Performance Polish then just the DG Bonding Agent is all you need.

As for Red Mist, spray on lightly and buff off with a quality microfibre cloth.

[Corey_R]

To expand on what Wolfgang has written. I feel that you're getting confused with the "losely used terminology" of the car detailing world.

Duragloss Total Performance Polish is not a polish. Well, it is, but it's not just a polish. It's also got a mix of synthetic polymers and waxes, so it's really an all in one product. As Wolfang mentioned, the Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent is also a paint cleaner.

Therefore, the process would be Wash > Duragloss Polish Agent > Duragloss Total Performance Polish. You wouldn't use the Dodo Juice products (except Red Mist, after each wash).

If you didn't want to use the Duragloss products, then on the Dodo Juice side of things...
Lime Prime is a paint cleaner, but is also a "light" polish. It can get rid of light to mild swirl marks from regular washing. Lime Prime Light on the other hand, is just a paint cleaner. So if you were to use those products.... Wash > Dodo Juice Lime Prime > Dodo Juice Wax. Then Red Mist after each wash...

If you have more than "light swirls" on your paint, then you need to use a polish. But not an all in one polish such as the DG Total Performance if you then intended to do a wax or sealant.

[derkaiser94]

Lime Prime and Duragloss Bonding Agent are both paint cleaners. If you are going to apply DG Total Performance Polish then just the DG Bonding Agent is all you need.

As for Red Mist, spray on lightly and buff off with a quality microfibre cloth.

Thanks for the reply! I'll skip the Bonding Agent then. I'm looking to apply a paint sealant with the Lime Prime/wax combo. Would the DG Clear Coat Polish be a better option to DG Total Performance? Which should be going on first? Lime Prime or the sealant?

To expand on what Wolfgang has written. I feel that you're getting confused with the "losely used terminology" of the car detailing world.

Duragloss Total Performance Polish is not a polish. Well, it is, but it's not just a polish. It's also got a mix of synthetic polymers and waxes, so it's really an all in one product. As Wolfang mentioned, the Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent is also a paint cleaner.

Therefore, the process would be Wash > Duragloss Polish Agent > Duragloss Total Performance Polish. You wouldn't use the Dodo Juice products (except Red Mist, after each wash).

If you didn't want to use the Duragloss products, then on the Dodo Juice side of things...
Lime Prime is a paint cleaner, but is also a "light" polish. It can get rid of light to mild swirl marks from regular washing. Lime Prime Light on the other hand, is just a paint cleaner. So if you were to use those products.... Wash > Dodo Juice Lime Prime > Dodo Juice Wax. Then Red Mist after each wash...

If you have more than "light swirls" on your paint, then you need to use a polish. But not an all in one polish such as the DG Total Performance if you then intended to do a wax or sealant.

Thanks for the through explanation. I am looking to go down the Dodo Juice route. But I'm keen to top it up with a paint sealant for a more lasting protection. Is that going to be beneficial? If so, would you recommend the above two DG products I listed?

[Wolfgang]

Use the Lime Prime if your car has some swirls, then the bonding agent, then the total performance polish, then put your wax over the top.

The bonding agent prolongs the protection of the total performance, apply it, leave 10-15min then apply the total performance over the top, allow another 10-15min then buff off. Wait about a week to allow it to cure and then apply the wax. Then you can top up with the Red Mist.

Sealants (like total performance polish) last longer than waxes so should be applied before wax.

[FOR VW FORA]

My First Thread for suggestions to Keep my Passat B7 clean

Hi guys my first post so let me thank everyone for their contribution. (been lurking here for few weeks)
After 15 plus years of commodores I have finally broken up with my still beloved Aussie made cars and picked up my first diesel euro. MY11 Passat TDI in Pearl Black. I took the delivery on 1st September and have been washing it every fortnight. After reading all the overwhelming information and confusing myself to the max, I am going to get the following products from car Care products.
1- Nanolex Premium Paint Sealant Kit
2- 303 Aerospace Protectant
3- Mint Microfibre Plush Wash MP
4- Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate
5- Mint Microfibre Drying Towel.

Am I picking the right products or would you have done it with different product mix ? Also I need to clay before Nanolex or would you skip it ?

thanks in advance

[Buller_Scott]

Hi guys my first post so let me thank everyone for their contribution. (been lurking here for few weeks)
After 15 plus years of commodores I have finally broken up with my still beloved Aussie made cars and picked up my first diesel euro. MY11 Passat TDI in Pearl Black. I took the delivery on 1st September and have been washing it every fortnight. After reading all the overwhelming information and confusing myself to the max, I am going to get the following products from car Care products.
1- Nanolex Premium Paint Sealant Kit
2- 303 Aerospace Protectant
3- Mint Microfibre Plush Wash MP
4- Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate
5- Mint Microfibre Drying Towel.

Am I picking the right products or would you have done it with different product mix ? Also I need to clay before Nanolex or would you skip it ?

thanks in advance

hey mate how are things? how are you finding the diesel? different experience, that's for sure.

i think the stuff you've got on your list is great, AND to be honest you are just a smidge away from having a detailing kit like mine (which took me 3 years of messing around with inferior products, having 13 different bottles in the boot at any one time, etc etc to put together).

if i were in your shoes, that stuff is bang on, but i'd also get the following from CCP:
- lake country finishing pad- i've got a lake country pad and the size is perfect for spreading out your sealant evenly. great to hold in your hand, unlike the small applicators from autobarn etc which start to pinch your hand muscles after holding for a while. hardly absorbs the product, too.
- red mist quick detailer- mate uses this and loves it. im not sure about the nanolex paint sealant but i'd think that once it's flashed dry, you could spray some quick detailer on right away, and it'll compliment the sealant, add a little protection, and bring out the car's color.
- mint super plush cloth- every detailing kit has to have a super plush cloth for final step eg spraying on quick detailer.

you can use the 303 aerospace on all the plastic trim etc so you might want to get either another small applicator for that, or have a dedicated microfibre cloth. you can also use 303 aerospace on your tyres if you're not all about the ''wet look'' - the 303 will give your tyres more of an oem black, slight satin look.

others will say it's a necessity to clay the car before sealant - that's a personal choice. i first clayed my car after 3 years of ownership, and........ the clay bar didnt really pick up that much stuff. others lift off HEAPS after only 3 months. for something like nanolex, though, i'd probably invest in a clay kit, just to ensure that the nanolex is allowed to work to its potential.

i think you're pretty much done! get yourself a tool bag from bunnings, pack your stuff in, and admire your very own car care kit! good thing about people like car care products is that whilst it's easy to spend $$$$ there, it's on quality products that you use VERY little of, will last ages, and is such that it's WAY cheaper than buying off the shelf (inferior) products from autobarn.

[FOR VW FORA]

Hi Buller_Scott

Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate the time you took.

I have taken your suggestions on board and hence the list has grown to 9 items (so is the $$$ as you already mentioned)
I think you are right I will get the clay kit also to "do it once do it right"

Driving diesel is a big difference for me and I guess i will get used to it.
It does have a fair bit of grunt but I am still babying the car I guess.
I do like the interior and little features that go a long way plus it is very quiet compared to VX & VY SVZ I had.
The only thing that irks me is around 1200/1400 rpm doing 55-60 Kms it feels like engine is lugging (hope it is the right term)
I usually switch to manual mode and shift down. I was told that this is normal for diesel and will eventually go away once I reach 10000 Kms (currently at 6000ish). With big 6's 1200-1500 rpm was never a problem.

thanks again mate!

[Buller_Scott]

hey FOR VW FORA, nice work!

just be prepared for sore arms/ shoulders/ back, detailing can quickly become a bit of an obsession - i will admit i dont wash my car EVERY week, and that the products i use i bought more to protect the car rather than have it looking concours ready every day, but when i do give it the full monty it's always a 6 hour affair that sees me aching long after i've kicked off my flip flops and poured myself a beer.

let us know what your kit ends up containing!

[kaotickelly]

Duragloss exprience

Just want to share my experience of diy paint protection with the Duragloss Paint protection pack and a clay bar on my 3 week old White Tiguan.

1. Started with a high pressure wash at the local diy car wash, first with soap spray and then high pressure rinse.
2. Went home and washed with Armorall's wax and wash and a mitten glove.
3. Clay bar panel by panel with plenty of lube (I didn't think the brand of lube mattered). It did remove alot of small specks of dirt/crap, but it didn't remove all the sap. Some came off, but there were some stubborn ones on the roof that didn't come off (any suggestions? I've seen car wash joints clean it off before, but don't know what they used). Instead of wiping off the lube with microfiber, I hosed it off. Took about 1:15 hr. Used about 2/3 of a bar.
4. Dried car with Shamwow and then microfiber, probably not the best idea.
5. Applied the Duragloss 601 bonding agent, followed by the 105 polish/wax after about 5 min. Both applied with the foam applicator that came with the pack.
6. Buffed off polish/wax with included premium microfiber cloth. Time taken 1:45.

So how does 4.5 hours of work look and feel?

Look:
To be honest, it didn't look a whole lot shinier than the brand new paint job, and I wasn't expecting so. If the car was a year old with only 5 or 6 washes then it would have made a much bigger difference.

Feel:
SMOOOOOOTH, to the point that no matter where I put the 601 bottle on the roof it started sliding down... LOL. It was just so smooth everywhere. The smoothness was already there after the 601 bonding agent was applied, but was just that little bit more so after the 105 polish was applied and buffed off. Now it rained about 2 hours after I did the whole job (of course), and the smoothness was only slightly lost after I dried it off with a light drag of the shamwow.

So would I recommend the protection pack to anyone? YES, the smooth feeling after the polish is addictive LOL.

Would I recommend the clay bar to anyone? Maybe, and you should do a intense wash first before using it, and don't expect miracles.

It's a waiting game to see if sap/dirt/crap sticks to the new skin, I'll report back in a few weeks.

Happy to hear anyone's thoughts on what I've done, and welcome any suggestions!

[Rannerz]

I polished my other car today (1984 Mazda 323 Panel Van, in bright solid yellow). The car was faded as all hell and needed a good cut.
Heres the steps I took.
-masked up all rubbers and plastic I didn't want polish on
-Started to cut the car, panel by panel starting with the roof. Cut each panel twice.
-once whole car was cut, wipe off excess polish with micro fibre rag
-buff car with machine glaze
-wash the car, chamois, wipe dash, vacuum
-hand wax the car

Car looks as though it just rolled off the mazda showroom floor.
The polishes I used are different to the ones recommended on here, and they are also harder to get and are rather expensive.
-3M Perfect-It Extra Cut (old formula) with a white foam pad. 3M released a new formula in a purple bottle, not as good as old formula which I used.
-3M Machine Glaze 2 with a grey foam pad
-Auto Glaze Super Resin Polish. Wiped on by hand, and wipe off. Not the best out there, but decent and in my shed. I would recommend it for budget. Still lasts a while

Also with clay blocks. A lot of people use them on their cars for a better clean. A clay block is designed for the removal of rail dust, paint overspray, and industrial fallout. There are plenty of chemicals and other cleaning products out there that can remove other contaminants just as well and may be cheaper and easier.
My 2000 GTI is in need to good clay blocking, as the original owner lived near and industrial area of Adelaide. So the entire car is covered in fallout. Easy process, but a very time consuming one too.

[Transporter]

Did you mean -Autoglym?
I know the 3M stuff is good.