Tyre Options

[brad]

I'd go for the lightest, good quality rim you can possibly afford. About the only question I'd have on your two choices is what is the manufacture method - forged, high pressure or low pressure die cast or gravity - there are some variations on these types too.

You will notice the 1kg difference between your choices. The biggest mistake I have made on my car is the wheel weights.

235/40 is also a good choice for all the reasons you stated provided it doesn't make your actual speed greater than the indicated speed. Do you have any idea how the speedo reads now? ie 100kph on speedo is ???kph on the GPS. If your discrepancy is like my car then 235/40 will be fine. I have 658mm diameter tyres & 100=100. When I had 632mm tyres 100=90. 235/40r18 will be around 645mm.

A few of my mates would be able to pick a slightly slower turn-in / response from the wider/taller tyre but I doubt I could. Ride might be slightly plusher.

I have no idea about your axle tramp issues - have you put an insert in the dogbone mount yet?

Regarding offset, I had 17x8 ET35 & the rear was perfect but the front was out past the guards. ET42 should be close to perfect up front but even ET45 will have "the look".

What's the ball park money?

Before you pull the trigger, have you looked at TSW wheels? They do a nice line in rotary forged wheels. The weight is similar or less than the cades bern.

[donweather]

Cheers Brad. Manufacturing method...hmmmm...will have to get back to you on that. What's the best type of manufacturing method and the worst?

According to the link above, the diameter difference between 225s and 235s is 637mm vs 645mm. It also states "When speedometer reads 60mph (96.6km/h) actual speed will be 60.8mph (97.9km/h): 1.3% faster."

I have a dogbone mount insert but only the Superpro 70 (yes it's recommended only for diesel but didn't want to go for the 80 given the NVH). 70 has bedded down somewhat now so probably could consider the Superpro 80 now. I also have the Superaloy Lower Control Arms. All of this has helped but I'm still getting axle tramping around 4500 rpm+ in 1st gear (Stage 1 tune). However about to change tyres from Conti's to PS3's or Goodyears, both of which supposedly assist with reduction in axle tramping. Axle tramping is due to loss of traction isn't it? So with a wider tyre, won't it take more force to lose traction, thus wider tyre should reduce axle tramping?

Ball park money is of the order of $1500 delivered including duties/taxes etc for the Cades. Alzor's slightly cheaper.

Just had a real quick look at the TSW wheels. Only a couple that take my fancy and close to $2000. But thanks anyway.

[donweather]

Alzors are "Low pressure cast manufacturing process ". Cades are low pressure cast also.

[brad]

Forged are strongest but they are all perfectly acceptable manufacturing processes.

Stick with the 70 duro mount - I doubt the 80 would make a huge difference.

Do the wheels & tyres & then see what happens. With the lighter package there will be less that the dampers have to control.

What happens when you turn off ESP? I always get a better launch with ESP off.

[donweather]

Yes ESP off helps slightly, but nothing greatly. Conti's need to be real warm (like after driving highway speeds for an hr) and then they dont tramp. But around town they just don't warm up enough and tramp easy IMO.

[donweather]

Brad is yours a mk 2 or 3 and RS or non RS?

[brad]

Brad is yours a mk 2 or 3 and RS or non RS?

2007 build MK2 Elegance hatch. M6 1.8tsi, 138,000km. Bluefin tune since 50,000km; Eibach springs, koni yellows, vRS/GTI 312mm front brakes, other minor stuff.

I've had 4 sets of wheels/tyres on it.
16x6.5 ET50 + 205/55r16
17x8.0 ET35 + 235/45r17
16x7.5 ET50 + 225/55r16
17x7.5 ET45 + 225/50r17

[deeps]

So have had the PS3's on for a few weeks now.

They're quiet - and so far stopping and handling in the wet and dry has been good (haven't really pushed them too hard, but have had to make one or two quick stops, and they did well).

However, accelerating relatively hard from a standing stop, particularly when turning, I'm getting a bit of wheel spin.. bit disappointed, I did get it on the stock tyres, but seems worse now.

[donweather]

Deeps, wheel spin or axle tramp? What's your occy model also?

[deeps]

I think it's more axle tramp. Got the 118tsi 2012

I remember about a month back i really floored it from a standing stop and got an almighty shudder. I thought it was the clutch, as it needs to be replaced, but now I'm thinking maybe that was axle tramp too.

[donweather]

Further to my post above regarding the Cades, will the ET42 have any issues with clashing with the RS brake calipers?

[brad]

Further to my post above regarding the Cades, will the ET42 have any issues with clashing with the RS brake calipers?

No. You can run 16" ET52 on the 312mm vRS brakes with about 6mm clearance.

It would have to be a really poorly / weirdly made 17" or 18" to interfere with 312mm vRS brakes.

[donweather]

Ok thanks Brad. With respect to your ET52 response isn't the clash with the brakes worse on a lower ET, say ET42?

[brad]

Ok thanks Brad. With respect to your ET52 response isn't the clash with the brakes worse on a lower ET, say ET42?

All other dimensions being equal (ie: 17x7 rim) the ET50 offset has 15mm less outward poke (or is 15mm closer to the strut) than an ET35. If you change the width of the wheel then the offset distance changes even if the ET remains constant, so you have to consider both width & ET when working out where the wheel sits within the guards.

Possibly this calculator will help visualise what I mean. It shows a strut & the outline of before & after different wheels, tyres, diameters, offsets, etc

[donweather]

Thanks Brad. But its not the clearance to the strut that's the problem. it's the clearance to the brake calipers which are closest to the inside surface of the rim and so with a lower ET you have less room between the intrados of the rim/spokes and the brake calipers.