Door lock deadlock release T5 2005

[Sunny43.5]

Hi all today I am trying to help out a friend who bought our old T5 , the drivers lock would lock but not release by remote but the door will open when manually unlocked . I did the usual suspects the plug under the seat and eventually removed the door trim removed the lock disassembled completely sprayed with propriety lubricant and cleaned and lube all the door latching and locking parts . Reassembled and beauty works like brand new again . Next problem passengers side seems to be deadlocked and wont release at all so I cannot get the door open , I can feel and see the lock button move downwards on each push to lock / deadlock but it will not release on unlock . You can pull the inside door latch release and the lock button goes up but because the deadlock is still on I cannot open the door , when you release the inside latch the button returns to the down / lock position . I can feel the lock pulse when you try and unlock so it is getting power . Next my main thing is how can I get the fecken door open !! because I cannot do anything to the lock itself until I get the door open , I removed the end cap of the outside handle part where a key would be fitted to manually unlock but cannot see any moving parts to release the latch . I can't imagine anyway to get the door open in its current state Thanks in advance for some suggestions . { Oxy torch has already crossed my mind and a crow bar but that's a bit harsh }

[Umai Naa!!]

I'll be doing one on mine in the new year.

I'll let you know where to drill...

[Sunny43.5]

I cant wait that long as I was hoping to get the roadworthy done tomorrow as well , they have had the van on sort of loan test drive for while and I wanted to finalise the deal . Its just peeing me off that it such a simple little motor that drives the locks can cause a complete failure with no alternate way of releasing the lock , I had a flash of genius which lasted for around ten seconds . When I did the DS side you remove the external lock by unscrewing the torx screw inside the grommet on the inside of the door skin it comes out easily so genius thinks ok maybe VW put the same slot that the lock fits into on both sides but VW only puts the actual key one in the DS nope failure again . What amazes me is the blank PS one is a heavy die cast fitting but no internal for the key like the DS . Starting to worry if there is a way without cutting a hole in the outside skin {yes one dealer told a customer that one on research } There must be away to release the lock or the latch manually from somewhere , bloody mongrel idea wasted half a day on the PS side as it is . Well at least I now know how to remove and clean up the locks in my work van as one of them occasionally does not open .Sigh .

[Umai Naa!!]

There is a way...

If I get time this week, I'll do a practice run on it, and figure out where to drill.

[Sunny43.5]

Thanks Umai I was going to pull the PS door trim and stuff off my work van and see where it could be manipulated but it is a awkward one because the van in question will be all together . I know there is power at least as I can hear the motor trying to move , I gave it a good blast with some CRC so maybe overnight it might come to its senses [and pigs might fly as well ]

[The_Hawk]

So they key doesn't help either?

I would like to see photos of what's failed and how this is fixed in the end, it's pretty poor form from VW that it's so destructive to fix a broken part.

As for cutting a hole in the outer skin, surely it would be cheaper and easier to repair if you cut through the inner door card rather than a weld and paint job on the outside?


On a side note, we have had to replace the inner drivers side door card to fix the door latch. Seems there is a moving pivot (or something) attached to the door card and if the plastic bit snaps you have to replace the whole trim piece to get it working again. Luckily mine was done as a good will repair after the "extended warranty" I had refused to cover the problem because they didn't cover "trim pieces"....

[Sunny43.5]

I will take some photos once I get the mongrel apart as I did completely pull the drivers one apart down to the last screw ! once I got it apart it was just about checking nothing was worn or jamming so I gave it a good blast with some CRC and then lubricated every moving part of the lock and the door striker latches . As soon as I put it back together it worked like a charm fast and solid action in both directions so its all good .

[Rebuild]

when i had trouble with my passenger lock, years back, took lots of continuous goes in quick succession with the key fob, before it eventually released.Maybe a dozen shots.
Some recommend bashing with your hand on the outside lock area while you operate the key fob, didn't need that for mine.

[Syncrotek]

You can get at the door lock and drill it to turn the internal gear, that's what I did to unlock it
and open the door. The door trim is difficult to remove but can be removed without damage,
use something to protect the top of the door and lever the trim up and over along it's length,
then unplug any electricals and push the trim over towards the seat, the plastic plugs that
the lower screws are screwed into can be levered out of the door with screws still in, after
the trim is off the screws can be taken out and the plastic plugs refitted to the door. Once the
door is opened you can see the lock, remove the handle, etc.

The lock motor had a burnt armature and brushes, not repairable. Yours might respond to lube,
try it first, before any drilling.

The picture will give an idea of where to drill, it is not the simplest job, but even I managed
to do it successfully, putting everything back together with a low kays used lock, and no damage
to door. Good luck.

[Sunny43.5]

Thanks everyone so far there is no key lock unlock option on the outside of the passengers side , I already had that flash of brilliance for around ten seconds after removing the blank piece next to the external handle . Removing the trim in situ is the next option , a bugger of a job with limited access . Even getting the actual lock out will be impossible without opening the door as the screws holding it are in between the pillar and the door skin so some plotting the position will be necessary before any manipulation can occur , as I said I will most likely remove the passengers lock from my work van to establish the best way to get access to the lock with the door still closed then work out how to get to the lock to release in situ on the van with the problem . Not like the old days where a bit of wire down the glass you could yank the lock rod to release or release the latch "sob "I miss the old days .
Stay tuned .

[Sunny43.5]

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEs got the mongrel open !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! partially removed the top of the door trim [one bourbon ] then I used a fein saw to cut a slot on the inner door skin down from the hole that the locking rod comes out of from the lock to the door trim [two bourbons ]. Then I was able to manipulate the locking part which rotates at the same time In the other hand I had the remote and hit the unlock and BINGO the fecken thing let go . Guys thank you for your input I 'll take a couple of shots showing me dismembering the actual lock and see its intestines spilled out onto the bench . Talk soon !!

[Sunny43.5]

Well win some lose some , so I get the lock fixed reassemble the door trim and check windows to reset auto up down and guess what ? the fecken window regulator decides right there and then after going up and down four times BANG so of to parts for a new regulator , I already replaced the drivers side a few years back seems this system is a bit of a dud .

[Syncrotek]

can anyone confirm they can see / read post #9 with the picture, @ 12:19? or am I the ghost poster ?, posting invisible
posts.

by the way if you do notice this post Howard, the plastic clips that break in the window regulator are available on their own.

[Rebuild]

syncro, all good, post/pic is there

Sunny, did this a while back
How to remove Door Lock and Assembly Carrier - The Brick-yard

[Syncrotek]

Thanks.