Sam's build thread

[sambb]

To be honest I don't know. After taking a look inside one there didn't seem to be anything at all to stop oil just piling up against one side (being east-west) in a long corner away from the pick up. I'd looked at a few gated sumps that were available and read that the INA one was the crème de la crème and then coincidentally one came up for sale for next to nothing so I thought why not. I think the fact that it has the extra oil capacity was a nice bonus that helped me jump.

[simon k]

yeah... I'd have grabbed it too.

A nearly new Swift came to the motorkhana at Hay once, after the first test it rattled itself back into the parking area and straight on to a trailer. It was back the next year with a rebuilt engine and a baffled sump. Apparently it's a known fault with them... a little bit of aggressive cornering and they starve. Same with minis, we all run center oil pickups because they starve when turning right with the standard pickup.

[sambb]

When I do a bit more testing on the oil level sensor bridging and am confident to install mine, i'll put some pics up.

Did a bit more testing tonight and am now sold on the idea of an aftermarket oil pressure/temp gauge. I unplugged the OE oil pressure switch which is on the filter housing with the car running and while VCDS saw that oil pressure had dropped it neither brought up a code/error in VCDS or even activated a dash warning! However when I turned the engine off and went to restart it, only then did it flash the dash oil symbol and chime 3 times but then went away!! how ****e is that. So you could loose your oil and it'll only tell you when you next go to start your dead engine. Yep an in cabin gauge coming soon. I'm confident I can just bridge the stock oil pressure switch to GND and then fit an aftermarket sender in its spot.

[sambb]

The adjustable cam pulley arrived. Looks to be a pretty good bit of gear. Where the pin is in the first pic is normal TDC that correalates to the timing mark on the stock pulley. As you advance or retard cam timing, the pin will then locate into whichever set of the radial holes you have access to with each pin hole representing 1 degree. You can of course choose to move the timing infinitely and say position it between holes eg +1.5 degrees, the holes just give you definite step increments. It has 10.9 highish tensile bolts that need 10Nm torque. What I do like about this pulley (similar to the IE one too) is that the friction face between the two pulley surfaces is huge. I've seen pulleys where under each tensioning bolt there is only a small lug with a surface area no bigger than a pinkie print. They do it that way to keep weight down I guess and they are smarter than me but I just like the look of the huge clamping surfaces.
The keyway they use is actually a pressed in roll pin. Lots that I've seen had machined keyways cut into the billet centre, but Cat cams seem to use this method. The roll pin cant back outward as the mounting surface of the cam pulley bolt covers where the roll pin is positioned ie the roll pin wont be seen from the outside once the pulley is bolted in.
I'll weigh the pulley like for like against the OE cast steel one when I do the swap. Now all I need is the manual roller tensioner and the stud to hold it so that I can fit the pulley and do the conversion to manual tensioning all at once. The stupid manual roller tensioner is proving to be a bugger to source which is a bit frustrating. I have an OE hydraulic tensioner kit/pump etc all ready to go but I'd really rather do the conversion, so I'll keep leaking coolant everywhere until I eventually source the bits.

I already have the IE billet bracket/idle roller assembly, I just need the 16V manual belt tensioning roller and the stud. So if anyone has one on a shelf, or knows someone who knows something re that, please let me know. For a conversion that tonnes of people have done, it seems to be one of earths mysteries around where I am to find the bits needed.

[sambb]

Further to the INA sump fitment, I was able to confirm that the stock oil pressure switch that fits into the oil filter housing can be deleted. Its a normal on/off contact ie open circuit when there's no oil pressure and shorted to gnd when there is oil pressure. By running a wire from the single pin plug to the block I was able to confirm that the error code in VCDS, the oil pressure signal to the instruments blocks and the dash chime can all be negated if you bridge it to ground/neg.
So what it means is that I can piss off that switch and with it out of the way have the real estate to be able to screw in an aftermarket oil temp/pressure sender that will work far better than the factory system. Still now need to sort this oil level signal to the dash and then I'm good to fit up he new sump.

[simon k]

noice

[sambb]

Hopefully one for the Gary - where's the best place to measure oil temp. Is the sump which gives you a picture of the oil return temp the one? Or do you get a better picture of whats going on by looking at the oil input to the engine eg at the oil filter housing? An oil cooler in a wet sump engine cools the oil going into the engine eg post sump/pump doesn't it, which had me thinking that would give the better picture. advice!

[metalhead]

Dammit Sam, have you been praying for rain again??

[Eddy]

Hey Eddy - haven't seen you on here for a while. Yeah my 15's are only 7's as I run 195's and 205's. At 8 inch can you remember what offset the rims are? Did you have to run spacers??

Hoyhoy.

Had a look @ the off-set of those 16"x 8"s today Sam, they are 35.

[sambb]

righto thanks appreciate it Eddy. Just got back from a state hillclimb round today. Was one of the best rounds I've ever run with the placings changing literally run for run amongst the top five, no one knowing how it was going to pan out and just a great vibe amongst the boys. I think I'll just drink Coopers and watch the F1 tonight but aready I'm thinking that I definitely need much more tyre on the road. Now that the suspension is sorted, when I'm on cold tyres at a hillclimb, the chassis is just overwhelming the 195's pretty ridiculously now, so i'll get onto that.

Eddy a bunch of us from the hillclimbs are thinking we might go down to Wakefield midweek in early September. If it works out we could have 8 or so people (enough to fill a cabin down there) so if you want to get the blue girl sorted and come along let me know. I'll keep you in the loop regardless.

[sambb]

results from Sundays Round 6 of the NSW state Hillclimb Championship: (my class = road registered >2.5Litre). I tidied up the format a bit so it makes more sense to viewers.


Class: Road Reg Non Log Booked over 2500cc Sponsor: Commodore Shop - Cardiff
Record: 42.70 Holder: Liam O'BRIEN HSV GTS Aug 2017

1st:

10 Steve WOODS (UnRegd) (MGCCN) Renault Megane RS275R 2.0 ltr turbo = 43.10 sec 25th overall

run1 run2 run3 run4 run5
4.67 4.40 4.43 4.72 4.42
23.69 23.32 23.29 23.69 23.43
43.72 43.10 43.81 43.97 43.67
Theoretically 4.40 + 18.86 + 19.78 = 43.04
--------------------------------------------------
2nd:
216 Sam BEEBY (Regd) (MGCCN) VW Polo Gti 1.8 ltr turbo 43.23 sec 26th overall

run1 run2 run3 run4 run5
4.68 4.50 4.73 4.64 4.47
23.77 23.52 23.61 23.51 23.14
44.13 43.69 43.73 43.50 43.23
Theoretically 4.47 + 18.67 + 19.99 = 43.13
--------------------------------------------------
3rd:
330 Jeff SCHMITT (Regd) (MGCCN) BMW M3 3.3 ltr 43.56 sec 31st overall

4.61 4.80 4.54 4.19 4.11
23.87 29.75 23.79 23.36 23.11
44.54 55.32 44.37 43.56 44.13
Theoretically 4.11 + 19.00 + 20.20 = 43.31
--------------------------------------------------
4th:
109 Andrew FRASER (Regd) (MGCCN) Corvette 6.4 ltr 43.57sec 32nd overall

4.59 4.49 4.29 4.56 4.82
24.58 23.80 23.51 23.73 23.94
45.22 48.61P 43.57 43.84 43.58
Theoretically 4.29 + 19.12 + 19.64 = 43.05
--------------------------------------------------

5th:
112 Riley MACQUEEN (J) (Regd) (WSCC) Commodore 5.7 ltr 44.02 36

4.18 4.22 4.06 4.00 3.92
24.00 23.95 23.77 23.64 23.77
44.56 44.45 44.05 44.02 44.46
Theoretically 3.92 + 19.64 + 20.28 = 43.84
--------------------------------------------------
6th:
510 Liam O'BRIEN (Regd) (HSV Owner) HSV GTS 6.2 ltr s/c 44.28 37

4.82 5.23 4.81 4.81 5.02
24.73 25.39 24.67 24.65 25.00
44.82 45.28 44.28 44.42 45.06
Theoretically 4.81 + 19.84 + 19.61 = 44.26
--------------------------------------------------
7th:
54 Wayne SIMEON (Regd) (MGCCQ) Ford Focus RS 2.6 ltr turbo 47.50 52

5.80 5.25 5.41 5.50 5.12
27.22 25.69 26.34 26.27 26.11
49.80 47.50 48.62 48.22 48.89
Theoretically 5.12 + 20.44 + 21.81 = 47.37
--------------------------------------------------
8th:
128 Peter WALKER (Regd) (NSSCC) Holden Commodore Ute 5.9 ltr 53.23 63

5.27 4.82 4.98
29.02 28.64 28.50
54.55 53.89 53.23
Theoretically 4.82 + 23.52 + 24.73 = 53.07
--------------------------------------------------

Me and the Megane RS275 RSR were the fastest FWD overall (and you'll love this Simon) except for a 3D sport sedan B16A vtec mini. My theoretical best was just off the class winners time so I cant feel too bad but I still made mistakes on the last run. First time we met he did me by 6/100ths, 2nd time I got him by half a second but he got me back again. Its 2:1. ah what could have been. Mega drive from Andrew in the Vette done by 1/100th to 3rd place by the M3. Probably one of the tightest comps Ive been in with a great group of guys so was a top day.

[Sydneykid]

Hopefully one for the Gary - where's the best place to measure oil temp. Is the sump which gives you a picture of the oil return temp the one? Or do you get a better picture of whats going on by looking at the oil input to the engine eg at the oil filter housing? An oil cooler in a wet sump engine cools the oil going into the engine eg post sump/pump doesn't it, which had me thinking that would give the better picture. advice!

It really doesn't matter much where you measure it, if the oil is "too hot" at the hottest place then it's simply too hot, even if it's cooler at the coolest place. I usually measure mine either at the sump or at the oil filter if I'm using a remote filter or the tank in dry sump system. Which is usually a convenience thing, remote filters commonly have spare places for oil temp and pressure sensors. At the sump means welding a fitting in place to take the sensor, unless I use a sensor that replaces the dip stick or sump plug (which is usually too low for a sensor anyway). Most off the shelf dry sump tanks have fittings for sensors, so that's a convenience thing too.

My suggestion would be to choose the most convenient location, the most important reading in some ways is not the absolute temperature, but more what it does over the lap, race, session. If it's constantly climbing, never stabilises then it doesn't matter much what the number is. It indicates that it needs more cooling, which is what is really relevant.

If you are using oil temp as a "stop driving, back off" indicator, then oil pressure is a more reliable reading for that purpose.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

righto thanks. I'll weld a temp sensor bung into the sump then, and run a pressure sensor off the filter housing.

[Eddy]

righto thanks appreciate it Eddy. Just got back from a state hillclimb round today. Was one of the best rounds I've ever run with the placings changing literally run for run amongst the top five, no one knowing how it was going to pan out and just a great vibe amongst the boys. I think I'll just drink Coopers and watch the F1 tonight but aready I'm thinking that I definitely need much more tyre on the road. Now that the suspension is sorted, when I'm on cold tyres at a hillclimb, the chassis is just overwhelming the 195's pretty ridiculously now, so i'll get onto that.

Eddy a bunch of us from the hillclimbs are thinking we might go down to Wakefield midweek in early September. If it works out we could have 8 or so people (enough to fill a cabin down there) so if you want to get the blue girl sorted and come along let me know. I'll keep you in the loop regardless.

Hoyhoy.

Don't count on me Sam, I haven't been down there for 3yrs, getting old & have changed my taste a bit.
Took the Girl out for a 200km drive yesterday for the wife's birthday down the old Pacific Hwy (Burringbah Range) to Ballina RSL.
Felt great on the curvy road, loved it. But not happy with the diff when hitting it hard, I have a rebuild kit with the clutch pack, springs & shims, but thinking if I pull the box out again that I might go back to an open diff to suit my age, not sure if I'm inclined to pulling the box out again.

[sambb]

fair enough Eddy. I'll send you my spare box (open diff) and some dollars and you can send down your SQS equiped box!!