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Sam's build thread

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  • Yeh, good points Gary, makes a lot of sense.

    A lot of that is why I bought the 18"s - wide 18" semis seemed more easily available and cheaper than wide 17" semis. My wheels are pretty heavy, but they were cheap, and secondhand wheels are non-existent in my size/offset/bolt pattern. Lighter wheels are an order of magnitude more expensive. And then the Nankangs are very heavy too.

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    • "Geoff was observing that changing his car from a road car to a race car (Improved Production) resulted in him having more weight, less tyre, and less downforce... "

      Ha! That guy terrorised me for 2/1/2 years.... I'm not crying a river for him. Nah just kidding he's a good guy and he is a hell of a lot safer sitting in that thing now than we are. If I could have a track dedicated car I'd do the same in a heart beat.


      I'll have a look at R888R prices but I just cant see them holding candle to A050's. Also I don't know what the go is with their single direction and assymetrical tread cuts. They don't do lefts and rights, the tyres only come with one tread cut so on one side of the car they'll channel water to the inside of the tyre. Still 367 bucks from the rubber tzar for A050's iin 215/50/15 s eye watering money (for me at least) so i'll be sleeping on it.

      I wonder if NT01's are the same compound now as R888R? The interwebs used to say that the earlier R888 and NT01 was the same compound, just different tread cuts. Don't know what it all means now that the R888R is around - if the Nitto has changed or if its the same.
      Last edited by sambb; 11-07-2018, 09:57 PM.

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      • actually Clio Pete bought a set of 205/50/15 mediums brand new and heat treated from Levens that he thought slowed him down (weight) and his times did say as much at SMSP south circuit as he took them back off and put his 195's back on. They were the top gear table at Bathurst so I have a feeling the problem was that they were just coated in BBQ fat and that they are actually ok. Maybe he'll part with them.

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        • Alright on the timing belt job where I'll be converting to manul tensioning from hydraulic, I think I've found the bits I need. I spoke to Matt at Camden Gti who was literally doing the same thing when I spoke to him and he advised me that the 1.8L 8V tensioner roller that you can get from Dayco is not the right one. It only works with narrower timing belts. Because I'm using the OE BJX belt which is wider than the 8V one he said I definitely have to use the tensioner roller from a KR series (16V 1.8L) or ABF series (16V 2.0L).

          I sourced one here: NEW FEBI BILSTEIN TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY 03600 P OE REPLACEMENT | eBay for not an arm and a leg.

          Matt said that he gets rid of the hydraulic tensioner and puts no other idler rollers in its place but you then need a shorter timing belt. I mentioned the Integrated Engineering replacement bracket/roller that bolts where the hydraulic tensioner had been. He said he hadn't done it that way before but from the sounds of it with that part in place (its idler roller is in the same place as the OE hydraulic tensioners one) that might explain why I've been told I can achieve it with the stock BJX belt.
          Apparently I'll be able to use my existing 8mm stud which is good. So i'll wait on that part from the UK, hope its the correct one, and ill report back with the ins and outs of a BJX conversion to manual tensioning when I'm done.

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          • I was having a bit of a dig around about others doing the same as you and found this thread: VWVortex.com - pic request: manual tensioner conversion kit from a 16v....

            and LOOK AT THE SIZE OF THIS TURBO!!


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            • Cool thanks. I'll have a read of the thread. If its for the engines in the pic, they are 058 longitudinal engines which are different but yeah they probably take the same tensioner.
              I love that integral water to air/plenum - thats sick.

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              • no worries, but I figured you'd have already seen that thread, I just lost it when I saw the turbo

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                • Simon this is how mine will look:
                  IE Sport Stroker Long Block 1.8T 20V Engine (Transverse 06A, VVT, Hybrid Oil Pan W/O Sensor, AWP Valve Cover) - Long Blocks - Assembled Race Engines - Performance Parts - TT 2000-2006 (MK1 - 8N) - TT - Audi

                  The transverse 06A has a different offset on the cam pulley to line up with the crank pulley which varies between the motors I think. In those pics you sent there is no idler pulley between the crank pulley and cam pulley. That could be because the 058's don't have/need one or maybe they've done the same thing as Matt at Camden GTI and used a shorter belt/no idler. On the 06A in the integrated engineering pic, the hydraulic tensioner assembly has been ditched and their billet assembly/idler bolted into its place. I think the idea of retaining the idler roller is that it gives you an extra tooth of wrap around on the crank pulley and also allows you to use the standard belt length. I still don't know why you cant just gut/de-shaft your existing hydraulic tensioner and keep it in place to make use of its roller. I compared them side by side and they look to be in the same spot. Then all you'd need is the manual belt tensioner roller and spacer, but hey my wife was in new York so I had to send her a present from IE, so sent her the billet bracket/roller. I love her so much I even sent her some R8 coils!
                  Last edited by sambb; 13-07-2018, 12:07 AM.

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                  • hot sex...

                    Originally posted by sambb View Post
                    my wife was in new York so I had to send her a present from IE, so sent her the billet bracket/roller. I love her so much I even sent her some R8 coils!
                    oh man, you're putting us all to shame! I hope she realises how lucky she is! you're definitely a keeper...

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                    • Ha ha It was a girls holiday away for their 40th's - sent me broke. I had to giggle thinking that when the concierge at their hotel said a package had arrived for her via me that she probably got all excited thinking it was a legit gift and then she opened it to find car parts. I bet they all sat around saying what a catch I am after that. I bet no other husbands sent their wives car parts and if they did, definitely not anodised red ones.

                      Just read that thread. Seems that was an 06A but used longitudinally. I do have the IE spacer that allows the manual tensioner roller to be tensioned correctly, but am now worried that my stud will be short. Surely I can just go down to the engineering wholesaler and get a high tensile stud of the right length with the correct shoulder. I also have no idea if the washer and nut is of a particular design to go with the tensioner roller or just literally a washer and a nut! but i'll figure it out. ebay UK maybe

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                      • can you post a nice clear picture of the individual parts, and what the stud is meant to look like? surely it's nothing that special

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                        • so this is the stud... it shouldn't matter if the stud has the shoulder built in to it, a thick HT washer would do the same job

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                          • Rein - 026198243 - Timing Belt Tensioner Stud Kit

                            yeah I just found this. Nut and washer are nothing special so I'm going to be ok there. I just thought that in changing to a different tensioner that maybe face of the tensioner was unique and so used a particular washer but it looks pretty standard fare to me. I'd heard so much about needing a 'stud kit' to go with the roller that I thought it was something special. It may not even need changing as the above Rein part which is listed for the tensioner roller I just bought, doesn't look particularly long. I'll still source something as I don't want to get stuck half way through the job if mine is short. I was thinking the same as you - it wouldn't even really need a shoulder would it as the roller centre is tightened to the head and only the outer ring rotates with the belt, but good practice and all I will try to get the correct shoulder length though.

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                            • the weekend hillclimb official wrap up: CAMS NSW Hillclimb Championship >> REPORT: 2018 Rd 6 Mantic Clutch “Ringwood Hillclimb”

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                              • Good report. Was just going through the results again - my second, third, and fifth runs were all faster than Steves 2nd quickest time. Interesting!

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