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Usually it comes with an adaptor and an extra hose, i didnt use a cable tie or anything to attach it to the bov. had no problems with it or came loose.
exactly the same with me. I used the new hose AND the old hose, because the vacuum line port sits a lot further away than with the standard. The hose connector/adaptor also provided means you can easily join both hoses to get the required length. No extra bits needed!
I reused the old hose clamps and mine has never come loose, nearly 2 years on now.
anyhoo...car is slow to spool and less punchy down low than stock
can adjusting the clicks either way help this?
The diverter / BOV effects the retention of your boost, it should not affect how long your boost is taking to come on (unless there is an issue with it).
Which tune are you working with?
You can try tightening it further (all the way, close to 50 clicks) to see if this makes any difference.
If spool is slow, maybe VAGCOM or a dealer is the best option.
Hey Bumpknuck it comes no supprise to me that you have experience a drop in performance at the same time the temperature in Perth is hitting almost 43deg 2 days in row. You will definately experience a drop in power in these extreme temps. You could be leaking boost but my bet is the weather.
the slowness to come on power, then a woosh of it all the way to redline was evident when fitted 5 or 6 months ago (not due to hot weather as the behaviour has been consistant since the install)....i guess im trying to say its not a linier in the delivery as the stock valve was....Quattro Motors installed it, next service i will have them query VAGCOM & search for possible leaks just to rule that out.
...so that leaves just the adjustment of the valve remaining..........can some one please explain what effect the valve settings have at both extremes - ie, 'if turn hard to the left (loosening?) you will experience' & 'if turn hard to the right (tightening?) it will' - remembering i have the forge unit.
i hope the above isn't too annoying/stupid question but i would like to get an idea of desired effect before trying to adjust the valve
thanks in advance for you patience & advice...im not a smart man, but i can lift heavy things
the slowness to come on power, then a woosh of it all the way to redline was evident when fitted 5 or 6 months ago (not due to hot weather as the behaviour has been consistant since the install)....i guess im trying to say its not a linier in the delivery as the stock valve was....Quattro Motors installed it, next service i will have them query VAGCOM & search for possible leaks just to rule that out.
...so that leaves just the adjustment of the valve remaining..........can some one please explain what effect the valve settings have at both extremes - ie, 'if turn hard to the left (loosening?) you will experience' & 'if turn hard to the right (tightening?) it will' - remembering i have the forge unit.
The non linear power delivery is due to it being turbo, the lag is not much in the Polo as the turbo is small and can use the exhaust pressure to turn it from low revs.
I'm a little confused, has it always been like this (since chipping) or just recently?
I would recommend the Seat 160 intake to help the intake system deliver air more consistently to the turbo. The turbo kick is reduced, but the overall power is more linear as you put it.
The diverter valve is designed to take the unwanted boost (eg when you are going to change gears) and push the air back into the air intake system (better than dumping it to atmosphere which provides no potential improvement in spool between gear changes).
By turning in looser (i assume anticlockwise, cant remember) you are lessening the required air pressure to open the valve. When you tighten, it increases the air pressure required to open the valve.
The stock valve could likely not hold the new air pressure after chipping for an extended period, thats why we replace the stock one (so our new boost is not leaked, but retained where it should be). If its too loose, it will bleed your air pressure, thus you will not get peak power (or peak boost). If its too tight, it won't open long enough to let the unwanted pressure out and you can get the fluttering sound that there are many theories about (eg the air pressure going back to the turbo and f*&King with it).
This is simplified as there is the computer and other factors which play part as well, but thats what I think is going on.
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I'm sure there are parts of this that are not 100% right, feel free to correct me.
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