Tramlining & Excessive Torque Steer.

[Eddy]

Hoyhoy.

Greg there is one complete set with cam sleeves, bolts & spanner available.

As to your other question of using a metal washer, thats I what do but with a softer washer as well so as to insulate from going straight to the body, I done this to try & stop any movement of the inner part of the main bush from going forward & backward.
I think may be the part your missing is in the first picture, that bolt & nut on the end I had added by an engineer.

[kaanage]

The bolt makes perfect sense to me - I'm actually surprised that it is only really located fore-aft by the front bush.

My question was actually about the function of the polyureathane washer. The bolt is already directly connected to the control arm and the 1st washer only contacts the control arm bush, not the carrier, which the control arm does directly anyway so I can't see why you need to provide any insulation from shock.

Need to talk to my mechanic about the sleeve kit but it looks good!

[vwthunder]

Spoke to the Guys at Pedders (pedders you say), tho it was a while ago. The guys at South Melbourne are great and really into performance cars, workshop is always full of great machines.

Anyway I was telling him about them, and I was told how they use the slack in the subframe to make small adjustments if they need to when doing a allignment, and without small adjustments well makes the car harder to setup?

Is this correct

[MattyVW]

Spoke to the Guys at Pedders (pedders you say), tho it was a while ago. The guys at South Melbourne are great and really into performance cars, workshop is always full of great machines.

Anyway I was telling him about them, and I was told how they use the slack in the subframe to make small adjustments if they need to when doing a allignment, and without small adjustments well makes the car harder to setup?

Is this correct

I would agree, but with the sleeves eddy had made up, the center is offset to accommodate the ability to move sub-frame / chassis, i assume, allowing the alignment guys to move them if necessary.

Anyone feel free to correct me if i am wrong.

[vwthunder]

I would agree, but with the sleeves eddy had made up, the center is offset to accommodate the ability to move sub-frame / chassis, i assume, allowing the alignment guys to move them if necessary.

Anyone feel free to correct me if i am wrong.

Having the New KW's alligned there on Friday, maybe i will show them a pic

[kaanage]

I would agree, but with the sleeves eddy had made up, the center is offset to accommodate the ability to move sub-frame / chassis, i assume, allowing the alignment guys to move them if necessary.

Anyone feel free to correct me if i am wrong.

That is spot on and why the sleeves have a hex at the top to make rotating them simple.

[Eddy]

[QUOTE=kaanage;779251]The bolt makes perfect sense to me - I'm actually surprised that it is only really located fore-aft by the front bush.

Hoyhoy.

Greg if I understand ya correctly, theres four cam sleeves & that covers the whole front end subframe,
which include the front & rear bush of the front end.
As far as I remember these are the only spots that have the 12mm bolts going into 18mm holes.
>
Please folks bear with me as it has been 2 years since dealing with this factor, when I muck about with one factor & finish it I then move onto the next one.
>
I have several little things done to the Little Blue Girl that I'm sure no else has done to the Pog.[QUOTE=kaanage;779251]

---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

My question was actually about the function of the polyureathane washer. The bolt is already directly connected to the control arm and the 1st washer only contacts the control arm bush, not the carrier, which the control arm does directly anyway so I can't see why you need to provide any insulation from shock.

Hoyhoy.

I understand what ya saying here & I don't really have an answer, but hopefully there was a reason.

---------- Post added at 10:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ----------

Spoke to the Guys at Pedders (pedders you say), tho it was a while ago. The guys at South Melbourne are great and really into performance cars, workshop is always full of great machines.

Anyway I was telling him about them, and I was told how they use the slack in the subframe to make small adjustments if they need to when doing a allignment, and without small adjustments well makes the car harder to setup?

Is this correct

Hoyhoy.

These cam sleeves have slack for adjusting without having any slack what so ever when fitted.

---------- Post added at 10:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:46 PM ----------

That is spot on and why the sleeves have a hex at the top to make rotating them simple.

Also why I supplied a bent spanner for two of the bolts.
Does anyone know how to adjust the subframe for wheel aligning when standard, needed is special tooling (to move) which a lot of wheel alignment places won't have.

[kaanage]

The bolt makes perfect sense to me - I'm actually surprised that it is only really located fore-aft by the front bush.

Hoyhoy.

Greg if I understand ya correctly, theres four cam sleeves & that covers the whole front end subframe,
which include the front & rear bush of the front end.
As far as I remember these are the only spots that have the 12mm bolts going into 18mm holes.
>
Please folks bear with me as it has been 2 years since dealing with this factor, when I muck about with one factor & finish it I then move onto the next one.
>
I have several little things done to the Little Blue Girl that I'm sure no else has done to the Pog.

Hi Eddy, I was referring to the bolt added to the end of the control arm in the above quote. The sleeves also make perfect sense (which is why I'm buying a set off you!! )

[Eddy]

Hi Eddy, I was referring to the bolt added to the end of the control arm in the above quote. The sleeves also make perfect sense (which is why I'm buying a set off you!! )

Hoyhoy.

The outer part of the bush is a press fit & not the inner section, me just wanted to make everything tighter.
Ya will not believe how direct the steering is on this Little Girl.

[Stuwey]

Eddy, how tight should these bolts be?

[Eddy]

Eddy, how tight should these bolts be?

Hoyhoy.

Stu, me do them F.T.
P.S. I mark everything with liquid ink, easy to tell when things are coming loose or mooving.

[Stuwey]

Easy, cheers.

[kaanage]

Stu, me do them F.T.

Is that Finger Tight or Fuçking Tight?

[Stuwey]

Eddy, you've focused highly on the front here for improvements. The rear of mine tends to wallow through small imperfections in the road, feeling like it almost side-steps as it hits a sharp bump.

Have you done by development on the rear at all?

[Eddy]

Is that Finger Tight or Fuçking Tight?

Hoyhoy.

Greg, me use me fingers for other things.

---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

Eddy, you've focused highly on the front here for improvements. The rear of mine tends to wallow through small imperfections in the road, feeling like it almost side-steps as it hits a sharp bump.

Have you done by development on the rear at all?

Never had too much of a problem with the rear Stu, but I've had the KW shocks in for quiet some time.
I also have a 24mm. front sway bar (not the ordinary after market 22mm.) & set on the siftest setting, this for a start would have helped the rear stay in line. About 18 months ago I played around with the rear, putting in rear strut brace,
rear alignment spacers & rear sway bar which was first set on stiff, then to the softest, because she was too tail happy.
Even now I have to heat up the rears when I hit the track to go for a quick one, but she steers like a woman posessed.
It was after tuning the rear up a bit that the Little Blue Girl was able to do the 1-10's @ Waky.
I'm in Sydney right now & hoping for the rain to lay off for the weekend because I'm hitting Wakefield this Sat. & Sunday with official timing only on the Sunday.
Have made a couple of more little tweaks since last track day.