my new rear shocks have got me thinking about front struts..

[pistoncranky]

Hi,

Following on from my thread about my Tig being a bit worn in the LCA bushes and weeping rear shocks etc.
(http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...an-119013.html)
I took action and ordered some Bilstein B4 rear shocks and have now put them in. The RH rear shock had noticeably more oil on it than the left and both old shocks were much more easily pushed into their travel than the new ones but the rebound speed was close to the same but I imagine that would be different with the coils springs adding their muscle when in position.

The new shocks have made a positive change to the handling and the back is less "wallowy" when pushed around bends.. it seems more inclined to hold the line.

I averaged about and hour per side just using home workshop gear - trolley jack, 400mm jack stands, crouching on haunches etc. Reasonably smooth process.

Interestingly, the improvement at the rear emphasises the front end wallow when pushed around a corner so now I'm thinking I should do them too when I attack the LCA bushes but I'm a bit cautious of dismantling the front end and messing with struts etc.

I already have new LCA (rearward mount) bushes and new sway bar links for that project which is why I am considering making a feast of it and getting the struts too.. and I have new front discs so it would nearly be a full refurb..

Has anyone changed out struts on a Tig without a hoist and other nice workshop benefits like good rattle guns etc?

I will be needing torque settings and advice about what mounting hardware (bolts) should be renewed instead of reusing existing h/w. Anyone done it at home?

Cheers, Chris

[Lucas_R]

my new rear shocks have got me thinking about front struts..

The front struts are a bit more involved than the rears and theres one tool in particular you should buy that will make the job easier (strut spreader tool)

- spring compressors
- i would recommend replacing the strut tops and bearings while you are there
- strut spreader tool to release the strut from the spindle
- open socket to loosen/tighten the top strut nut
- some WD40 to help loosen the strut
- some triple square socket bits (M10 or M12...i cant remember which size)

Ive just sold my VW so im selling all the special tools i acquired along the way, so if you are interested see below.

DIY suspension tools for VW/Audi/Skoda

NSW DIY suspension tools for VW/Audi/Skoda

[Aztech]

pistoncranky, have you done the rear swaybar yet? That's a 20 minute job that makes the biggest difference to the boat like SUV handling. I would think that might be a good option before spending hours on the front struts.

[pistoncranky]

Hi Aztech, still the standard sway-bar. I know what you're saying but I'm kind of cool about beefed up SBs on the road.. I've found they make the ride kind of "choppy" and in the old school (pre stability control and TC) was a way to introduce wild oversteer and you needed better shocks to damp the choppiness.. a kind of dog-chasing-tail exercise. (and I'm being a bit Scottish with the $$).

[Aztech]

fair enough mate, I dont find the ride quality any different and I don't remember it introducing much oversteer, I have a full set of coil-overs on now and dealing with other issues of noisy end links lol, you can't win but its fun working it out