New to me 2010 Tiguan

[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Changed Haldex oil, filter and cleaned the motor screen.

No evidence of this ever being done in 155,000km. Looking at Europe videos I was expecting a nightmare scenario only to find darkish nice smelling oil and almost no fouling on the pump motor screen. Main filter was dark compared with new replacement.

Prior to this I checked the operation by watching my daughter dump it on wet grass going uphill and the back wheels kicked in very clearly with little front wheel spin.

My suspicion is in 10 years this was the first time the 4 Motion has ever operated on this car hence the very clean system lacking in clutch debris clogging up the system. In Europe on slippery icey roads the system would work a lot harder more often unless you were going off-road in Australia.

Much easier and quicker job than I expected. Only an allen key easily fits the filter cover above the exhaust. All bolts are tiny 4mm mainly. The rest are easy access on this Gen 4 model.

Definitely an easy DIY.









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[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Engine oil and both diff oils changed today - both surprisingly easy jobs.

Last but not least is the ATF. Then every fluid will be new.


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[Perthdisco]

Can anyone tell me if a full size spare wheel will fit in the spare wheel space or is it space saver only?


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[Guest001]

Can anyone tell me if a full size spare wheel will fit in the spare wheel space or is it space saver only?


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Was a big thread a while ago with instructions on how to do it as to padding up the floor for a full size spare Go back through the threads

After 16 pages of looking I found this

Best way to fit a full size spare in the boot

[Perthdisco]

Was a big thread a while ago with instructions on how to do it as to padding up the floor for a full size spare Go back through the threads

After 16 pages of looking I found this

Best way to fit a full size spare in the boot

Thank you greatly Hillbilly


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[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Now with all oils changed, new tyres and wheel alignment still have a droning warbling road noise from rear tyre area when driving.

Is this normal maybe? Wheel bearings are ok.

Suspect a small exhaust leak as a possible culprit. Are cracks a known issue?


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[Yooj]

My 2010 tig had a wheel-bearing drone when I bought it. At that time it had 82,000 miles.

It has now around 162,000 miles, and the drone is still there... I still suspect a wheel bearing, and I did buy a new hub in preparation, but it never got worse, so I live with it.

Yooj

[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Now thinking the drone is exhaust related. Does the rear muffler ever have problems in these to cause a drone noise?

Have now changed ATF and filter. Got just over 4 new litres of Toyota T-IV into it. Quite an easy job using a $10 Bunnings pressure sprayer to push the new ATF in. I used a hand held heat gun to read the ATF pan temp with engine idling for the right fill level.

158k kms and the original oil was barely recognisable as being pink. The magnets in the pan were heavily coated with a few mm of metal paste.

As I’ve got 3 litres of new ATF left over the best bet would be in another few months to drain out exactly what I have new and refill since I know now the level is perfect. Will be close to a full change then.






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[Yooj]

So you flagging the vibration that you are experiencing, which appears to be somewhat similar to mine, has caused me to resume the research into the possible causes... one thing which I think could be a reasonable candidate is the vibration damper couplings at either end of the propshaft. I don't think I came across a Tiguan with the symptoms, but there were quite a few Audis with quattro and VW 4 motions which had a drone type vibration around 2.5k rpm, which they cured by changing predominantly the rear damper, but some changed the front damper.

Anyway, this might be one avenue to pursue.

Yooj

[Perthdisco]

So you flagging the vibration that you are experiencing, which appears to be somewhat similar to mine, has caused me to resume the research into the possible causes... one thing which I think could be a reasonable candidate is the vibration damper couplings at either end of the propshaft. I don't think I came across a Tiguan with the symptoms, but there were quite a few Audis with quattro and VW 4 motions which had a drone type vibration around 2.5k rpm, which they cured by changing predominantly the rear damper, but some changed the front damper.

Anyway, this might be one avenue to pursue.

Yooj

Yes that’s literally all that’s left as new tyres, all oils changed and no worn bearings. Either the muffler has collapsed or the coupling as you suggest.

It’s a speed related drone rather than engine revs

P.S. the gearbox now changes beautifully so smooth up or down with the oil change


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[jets]

Well done, you are a great contributor to this forum as well as the many others who have helped you in this thread. I just reread this again & I need to spend some more service time on ours.
I have posted previously about a service guy [not technician] at a Sydney dealership [before I bought the Tig.] who stripped the thread of the Haldex filler plug in the aluminium housing. It was very difficult to remove because of the necked down recess under the head of the plug that left some housing matl. unstripped. IMO it's very important to take your time, think about the matl that you are working with & use a torque wrench if possible.

[Perthdisco]

Well done, you are a great contributor to this forum as well as the many others who have helped you in this thread. I just reread this again & I need to spend some more service time on ours.
I have posted previously about a service guy [not technician] at a Sydney dealership [before I bought the Tig.] who stripped the thread of the Haldex filler plug in the aluminium housing. It was very difficult to remove because of the necked down recess under the head of the plug that left some housing matl. unstripped. IMO it's very important to take your time, think about the matl that you are working with & use a torque wrench if possible.

Thanks - all very simple and easy so far mainly because of the excellent how-to internet info and videos available on YouTube.

Yes you need to be very careful with all such oil fill&drain bolts and use new washers where possible. Also use small tools and not ones that give lots of leverage or keep your hand close to the bolt being tightened.


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[Perthdisco]

New rear wheel bearings and now silence has returned to the car. The drone was unbelievably bad above 60kmh.

Quite easy and did not have to remove any suspension components to get at the bolts holding the wheel bearing on.

Need socket extensions and a flex joint though to work around the drive shaft.

Also need the triple square 12 and 14 male sockets for the brake calliper and wheel bearing bolts.

And a big breaker bar.

I’m working up to the RMS replacement as the big DIY project.




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[Lucas_R]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Well done sorting the rear wheel bearings.

If and when you gather the courage to tackle the rear main seal, consider the iabed option which is a better design and more durable than the factory VW seal.

Its about $230 and you can get them from AutoInstruct in Melbourne.

iABED Billet Aluminum Rear Main Seal Upgrade – Pre-2013 VW, Audi, Skoda – AutoInstruct

[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Well done sorting the rear wheel bearings.

If and when you gather the courage to tackle the rear main seal, consider the iabed option which is a better design and more durable than the factory VW seal.

Its about $230 and you can get them from AutoInstruct in Melbourne.

iABED Billet Aluminum Rear Main Seal Upgrade – Pre-2013 VW, Audi, Skoda – AutoInstruct

Thanks for that. I have read the latest version of the VW seal is significantly different from the original with an inward facing lip.

Also - are the any OEM timing chain kit providers in Australia? The complete kit of chains slides tensioner and covers etc. This is probably the most important job I need to bite the bullet on soon DIY or Indy Shop.


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