New to me 2010 Tiguan

[Lucas_R]

Anyone know what’s the deal with power steering on these cars? Not a conventional pump system with a reservoir?

Should be electric power steering as mentioned above.

[Dartiguan]

It is likely that it is only running on FWD as the Haldex systems gum up over time. There are filter kits and also the option of replacing the pump. There are a few posts on this in the forum. You can buy the pump from the UK but the filter kits are available locally. There is a very good youtube and pdf on the issue if you search for it.

[Perthdisco]

Coolant changed today dropped from the lowest radiator hoses where they connect below the water pump working from underneath the car.

Drained, flushed the refilled with new coolant. I’d be surprised if as much as 4-5 litres was drained out. Capacity supposed to be 11 litres seems a lot.

The lower radiator hose on the RH driver side is not in the bottom corner and no drain tap on radiator. Suspect a lot is retained in radiator.


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[Perthdisco]

It is likely that it is only running on FWD as the Haldex systems gum up over time. There are filter kits and also the option of replacing the pump. There are a few posts on this in the forum. You can buy the pump from the UK but the filter kits are available locally. There is a very good youtube and pdf on the issue if you search for it.

Many thanks and now up to speed on Haldex service. Key is to remove the motor and clean the screen on this as well as change the larger filter unit.

Now to the ATF change. This also looks like a feasible DIY. Ryco do a seal and filter kit. Need adapter for refill and Blauparts do a great instructional video.

My question is on ATF fluid. Assuming using aftermarket will create a mix of fluid as probably 40% retained in the TC. So, either use original VW or do a first full drop and filter change with aftermarket ATF and then a second drop and fill only to achieve a high % of new oil.

Any thoughts and ATF recommendations or experience?


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[Perthdisco]

Any recommendations for what full 2.0 TSI timing chain + tensioner + guides replacement costs and a WA VW independent repairer?


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[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Ok so I am hearing now quotes of up to $1700 [emoji15]. Sounds a lot. Has no one on this forum had this job done on a 2.0 TSI? I’m under the impression the engine will self destruct before 200kkms without doing it.


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[Lucas_R]

Any recommendations for what full 2.0 TSI timing chain + tensioner + guides replacement costs and a WA VW independent repairer?

When I had my Mk6 GTI (same engine as your Tiguan) I had the chain guides, timing chain tensioner and timing chain cover & bolts replaced and it cost me just under $1k (i believe it was $960). But add another $300-400 for the timing chain to be replaced at the same time (I wish I had changed the chain on mine, but was told at the time it was not necessary).

Also be prepared that while doing this work they may break the (plastic) dipstick tube which gets hard and brittle over the years. This happened on my car and cost me a further $280 to be fixed. The dipstick tube is in the same area where they are working so its possible it will be damaged.

As for Perth VW mechanics perth vw mechanic - Google Search

[Lucas_R]

Ok so I am hearing now quotes of up to $1700 [emoji15]. Sounds a lot. Has no one on this forum had this job done on a 2.0 TSI? I’m under the impression the engine will self destruct before 200kkms without doing it.

The engine can self destruct at any time, regardless of km's. It just happens and there are plenty of stories on here of it happening to cars with very low km's on them (my car had 63,000km on it when i had them replaced as preventative maintenance, but I had a very loud rattle on startup which had me worried). Also, it may never happen - you could drive your car for 15 years and 300,000km and may never have an issue. It's a different situation for everyone.

Personally I changed mine for piece of mind, as the money I spent was far less than what it would have cost me to replace the engine if/when it failed completely. Plus the inconvenience of not having your car for several weeks while the new engine is sourced and fitted.

[Perthdisco]

The engine can self destruct at any time, regardless of km's. It just happens and there are plenty of stories on here of it happening to cars with very low km's on them (my car had 63,000km on it when i had them replaced as preventative maintenance, but I had a very loud rattle on startup which had me worried). Also, it may never happen - you could drive your car for 15 years and 300,000km and may never have an issue. It's a different situation for everyone.

Personally I changed mine for piece of mind, as the money I spent was far less than what it would have cost me to replace the engine if/when it failed completely. Plus the inconvenience of not having your car for several weeks while the new engine is sourced and fitted.

Thanks, I’m trying to establish what the fair cost is if you can share.


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[jets]

Now to the ATF change. This also looks like a feasible DIY. Ryco do a seal and filter kit. Need adapter for refill and Blauparts do a great instructional video.

My question is on ATF fluid. Assuming using aftermarket will create a mix of fluid as probably 40% retained in the TC. So, either use original VW or do a first full drop and filter change with aftermarket ATF and then a second drop and fill only to achieve a high % of new oil.

Any thoughts and ATF recommendations or experience?

Hope I am not to late on this but have just read it. I have a manual but have had experience with a previous owned auto T4 van.
On that model you should always stick to genuine oil or you will have problems. According to an Adelaide specialist, the only time you could consider a change is if the trans. was dismantled & all the old oil was completely removed.

[Lucas_R]

Thanks, I’m trying to establish what the fair cost is if you can share.

See my previous post https://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums...ml#post1313697

[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Hope I am not to late on this but have just read it. I have a manual but have had experience with a previous owned auto T4 van.
On that model you should always stick to genuine oil or you will have problems. According to an Adelaide specialist, the only time you could consider a change is if the trans. was dismantled & all the old oil was completely removed.

So my research has shown me that VW want $55 per litre [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] for the G-055-025-A2 oil but the gearbox is an Aisin made used extensively by Toyota. The Aisin equal oil spec is Type IV (T-IV) which Toyota sell for $55 for 5 litres. That will be close as possible to original oil overlooking the possible higher spec Mobil or Penrite equivalents.

With regard to ‘specialist’ advice that is the exact manufacturer problem. Is the gearbox ‘sealed for life’ until it blows up out of warranty or do you change the oil as preventative maintenance? With a torque converter you cannot physically remove all the oil by draining the sump, maybe 40% retained so you do the process twice in close proximity to achieve a higher percentage.

Same problem on my sealed for life ZF gearbox in Discovery 3. At least though I have a sump plug to avoid pan removal but will do this on the Tiguan to really clean it out being the first time.

Only a rebuild gives you 100% new oil but you are rebuilding it due to (avoidable) failure. The more blown up and rebuilt gearboxes at $4-6k the better for those guys.

I’ll report back when done on what 155kkm ATF looks like and the outcome with freshened up oil.


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[Perthdisco]

See my previous post https://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums...ml#post1313697

Oh yes seen it, thank you


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[jets]

With regard to ‘specialist’ advice that is the exact manufacturer problem. Is the gearbox ‘sealed for life’ until it blows up out of warranty or do you change the oil as preventative maintenance? With a torque converter you cannot physically remove all the oil by draining the sump, maybe 40% retained so you do the process twice in close proximity to achieve a higher percentage.

Are you are confident that the Toyota oil is the same as the VW oil? That is the problem & only you can decide if the saving is worth the risk. In my opinion, the oil should be changed at regular intervals. On the T4 that was at around 40,000 miles (in the USA] & even more frequently if towing. The T4 has a strainer/filter that should be changed & a magnet that should also be cleaned & will give you some idea of how things are going by the amount of steel whiskers. I don't know if the Tiguan has these. The oil on the T4 could also be changed from memory by undoing the level tube.
A friend of mine has a Mercedes Vito van that probably has a ZF box. He started having trouble & an oil change sorted that probably 2 years ago. Hope that helps.

[Perthdisco]

New to me 2010 Tiguan

Are you are confident that the Toyota oil is the same as the VW oil? That is the problem & only you can decide if the saving is worth the risk. In my opinion, the oil should be changed at regular intervals. On the T4 that was at around 40,000 miles (in the USA] & even more frequently if towing. The T4 has a strainer/filter that should be changed & a magnet that should also be cleaned & will give you some idea of how things are going by the amount of steel whiskers. I don't know if the Tiguan has these. The oil on the T4 could also be changed from memory by undoing the level tube.
A friend of mine has a Mercedes Vito van that probably has a ZF box. He started having trouble & an oil change sorted that probably 2 years ago. Hope that helps.

Thanks yes the procedure of draining and filling is the same you describe.

Here’s the Mobil 1 recommend oil with equivalents on basis VW definitely don’t make their own oil.



This is basically the Aisin 6 speed gearbox ATF specification.

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